When the word Mani is mentioned most people think of the arid landscape of Laconian Mani that brings to mind the Far West. But the area between Kalamata and Oitylo, that is Messinian Mani, is a destination with a lot of green and various options.
Small bays, impressive beaches, good taverns and nice bars overlooking the sea will fill your days. The area’s largest village, Kardamili, stands out and a stroll around the exquisite Old Kardamili is a must. Make a stop at the more touristy Stoupa and also walk to the village of Agios Nikolaos.
Swimming at Kitries
This small bay is ideal for swimming and eating good fish. The “Gaitanaros” tavern, right by the sea, offers fresh fish and seafood, with the owners themselves fishermen. Around the bay there are also beach bars where you can have a coffee or a drink.
Info: Gaitanaros, Kitries, Messinia, tel. 0030 27210 58370
A stroll around Kardamili
Kardamyli actually consists of two areas, old and new Kardamyli. Walk around the old quarter with the picturesque alleys and the climbing bougainvilleas, look at the Maniot towers and the Byzantine churches and travel back to the time of pirates and buccaneers. In the new quarter you’ll find tourist souvenir shops, cafés and bars. New Kardamyli too is very picturesque and the tourist development has been attuned to the natural landscape and the area’s history.
Food at Lela’s
“Lela’s Taverna” is almost an institution, with its lovely yard overlooking the rocky shore and the sea. Stop here for the famous moussaka with beef ragou, potato cream and local gruyere cheese, the lemon goat casserole with oregano, and the fresh fish cooked using original and imaginative recipes.
Info: Lela’s Taverna, Kardamili, Messinia, tel. 0030 27210 73541
Sunsets at Aquarella
This is the place to visit for coffee, cocktails and desserts to enjoy while watching the enchanting view of the sun setting over the sea. They make a mean mojito and a delicious cheesecake. The music is chill and perfect for the surrounding environs.
Info: Aquarella, Kardamili, Messinia, tel. 0030 27210 75010
Swimming at Kalamitsi
Cypresses by the sea? Yes indeed. Messenian Mani is quite lush, and you can see it yourselves at Kalamitsi beach, near Kardamli. Calm, shallow, turquoise waters with pebbles on the beach and sand in the sea. It’s a beach with no amenities so you’ll need to bring provisions.
Patrick Leigh Fermor’s house
British writer and philhellene’s gorgeous residence, built in the 1960s by architect Nikos Chatzimichalis is now open to the public, since Patrick Leigh Fermor bequeathed the house to the Benaki Museum. The Museum in collaboration with the Stavros Niarchos Foundation, in accordance with the author’s wishes, has taken the necessary measures to make the grounds and the buildings accessible to visitors. Tours can be arranged. Don’t miss a chance to wander in the Mediterranean garden with the olive trees, the cypresses, the pistacia trees and the wildflowers.
Info: Patrick Leigh Fermor Residence, Kalamitsi, Messenia, prior arrangements required, tel. 0030 210 3671090
Phonea Beach
A large rock divides the beach in two creating a stunning landscape. This beach, one of the most well-known beaches of Messenian Mani, has turquoise waters and white pebbles. There are no umbrellas on the beach, but you don’t have to worry as you can find shade under the rock. There is a canteen at the back of the beach.
Kalogria beach for swimming and drinking
You’ll find white sand, turquoise waters, taverns and beach bars on one of the most popular beaches of Messenian Mani. The waters are always crystal clear and cool, and “Paralos Beach Bar” offers a wide variety of drinks and snacks, like white wine with mango, lemon juice and Madagascar vanilla.
Info: Paralos Beach Bar, Kalogria beach, Stoupa, Messenia, tel. 0030 27210 77674
Seaside stroll
Stoupa connects with the next village, Agios Nikolaos, via a seaside walkway/bicycle path that offers great views along the way. Ideally go for a stroll around sunset so that it’s not too hot. It will take around 45 minutes to cover the 2-kilometre distance.
Traditional cuisine at Agios Nikolaos
At “Elli’s Tavern” you’ll taste the traditional cuisine as well as dishes with a twist, prepared with local ingredients. You must try the Maniot salad with orange, the kagianas (traditional Greek scrambled eggs with tomato) eggs with syglino (traditional salted pork meat), and the roast pig.
Info: Elli’s Tavern, Agios Nikolaos, Messinia, tel. 0030 27210 6983 294889
