Let’s start with a given: we are extremely fond of early autumn escapades, with their milder temperatures and the less crowded, more attentive locales that the end of summer brings. Here, we introduce four excellent destinations that we have experienced first-hand at this time of the year. We suggest you explore them and enjoy their delights as soon as possible.
Preveza: Charm and Seafood Galore
An enchantingly historical centre, inviting beaches, wonderful restaurants and tavernas boasting the freshest ingredients and a scenic marina coupled with remarkably affordable and splendid accommodation choices. These traits alone would suffice to label Preveza as an ideal summer destination, but this coastal town of Epirus is distinctly charming during the autumn period too.
The heartbeat of the city is most felt in its historic centre, where cobbled lanes lead you to ouzeries, bars, cafes and well-maintained tavernas. The air is rich with the aromas of fresh fish, seafood, and the famed Ambracian Gulf shrimp being grilled all around.
Strolling through the city encompasses wanders amidst grand neoclassical buildings and quaint cottages of vernacular architecture, all under the shadow of the Venetian Clock Tower (known as “the Roloi” by locals). Established in 1752, its distinctive ‘hat’ at the pinnacle and the bell tower of the Church of Agios Charalambos were added later on.
During your jaunt through the historic centre, you’re likely to find yourself face to face with the bust of the poet Kostas Karyotakis in the diminutive Dardanelia Square. Karyotakis lived and tragically ended his life in Preveza, not living to see his works translated into over 30 languages. Located along a picturesque alley in the historic centre, in Saitan Pazar, stands his residence.
On the peninsula that separates the Ambracian Gulf from the Ionian Sea is ancient Nikopolis, a mere eight kilometres north of contemporary Preveza. Founded by Roman Emperor Octavian Augustus, in memory of his victory over Antony and Cleopatra in the Battle of Actium in 31 BC, the site is expansive and awe-inspiring. The Main Gateway stands restored, with the grand theatre currently under restoration. Amidst carpets of wild herbs, remnants of antiquity emerge: the Theatre, the Odeon, the Roman Aqueduct, and the early Christian churches.
While Preveza’s allure isn’t solely found in the coastal charm of the Ionian Sea and the Ambracian Gulf, it’s the water element that defines the region’s hinterland in a remarkably pronounced manner. The Acheron River stands out as a natural feature, carrying with it tales from the renowned ancient necromancy site, paralleled in fame by the Louros River. However, our top pick in the area is the stunning Ziros Lake, complemented by the distinct riverside forest of Agios Varnavas.
In terms of gastronomy, Treli Garida in the city of Preveza is an excellent choice, strategically positioned near the sea and specialising in dishes like shrimp saganaki and grilled sardines. Further along, at the small port of Lygia, 30 kilometres beyond Preveza on the road to Igoumenitsa, you’ll find the family-run tavern Skaloma, which excels in seafood meze including mussels, squid, and shrimp. For those craving a taste of the east, Tzitzikas in the city centre is the go-to spot. The owner, Hasan, offers not only fish and seafood pasta but also dishes like pastourmadopita, kebab with yoghurt, and hunkar beğendi.
Read more about Preveza here
On the slopes of Mt Parnassos
Our recent visit to Delphi spurred this feature, as this corner of Greece truly encapsulates it all.
In ancient times, Delphi was revered as the centre of the world. Mythology tells us that Zeus released two eagles in opposite directions – east and west – to pinpoint the navel of the earth, their paths crossing at Delphi. This place thus became home to the most significant oracle of ancient Greece, a sanctuary of wisdom and foresight whose fame transcended borders, reaching lands as distant as Syria and Armenia, a fact substantiated by archaeological discoveries.
If you’ve yet to experience Delphi, it’s worth noting that the archaeological site unfolds across a hillside with a considerable gradient. As you ascend, you’re granted increasingly magnificent vistas of the surrounding mountains and the expansive olive groves that blanket the valley and slopes. It soon becomes clear why the ancients chose this very site to establish the oracle. As your climb culminates near the stadium, the highest accessible point, prepare to be mesmerised by the succession of monuments cascading down the hillside – a sight nothing short of awe-inspiring. Delve deeper into the myths and magnificence of this historic site here.
At the heart of your sojourn lies the picturesque village of Chrisso, ideally positioned to explore the slopes of Mount Parnassus and beyond. Chrisso serves as a superb base for your stay, allowing you to easily reach Delphi in 10 minutes, Arachova in 25 minutes, and various other locales within an hour’s drive.
For those who find delight in the journey itself, the drive promises scenic routes that are nothing short of enchanting. A standout journey winds from Delphi to Galaxidi, passing through the ancient olive grove of Amfissa, arguably the most beautiful in Greece. The coastal stretch from Itea to Galaxidi is equally captivating, and a recognised part of the Acropolis Rally special stages.
The gastronomic journey here is equally compelling, with options ranging from hearty meats to fresh seafood and traditional pies of Roumeli. Depending on your mood, the weather, or your location, you might find yourself savouring contemporary cuisine at the Archontiko in Arachova, dining at the Bacchus in Delphi, or experiencing innovative takes on seafood at Skeletovrachos in Galaxidi, where the delicious produce of the Corinthian Gulf gets a modern twist.
Chania: A Year-Round Destination
Chania is a city that embodies grace throughout the seasons, where a seamless blend of its vibrant history into modern times is palpable. September greeted us with perfect weather as we explored—from the western Firkas Fortress, past the Yiali Mosque and the Grand Arsenal, home to the Mediterranean Architecture Centre, to the far reaches of Akti Enoseos and the iconic Egyptian Lighthouse. This walk through Chania is a testimony to the city’s resilience, marrying its vibrant past with the present in a lively and respectful manner.
A wander through the alleys of the Old Town unveils an inescapable narrative woven with hints of Venetian legacy, vividly etched into its architectural fabric. One is most profoundly acquainted with Chania’s multicultural tapestry at the 1821 Square. Here, amidst the backdrop of a grand plane tree, stands the Church of Saint Nicholas, a beacon of unity with its bell tower on one side and minaret on the other, epitomising the city’s rich history.
For a touch of the idyllic, venture to Paleochora, where pristine beaches seemingly relish in an everlasting summer, or find serenity at Lake Kournas, Crete’s sole natural lake, adorned with a white sandy fringe. Of course, no visit would be complete without stepping foot on the famed Elafonissi or meandering through the undulating landscapes of the White Mountains.
Even if time is of the essence, with less than a day to spare in Chania, one could hardly resist a detour to the hill where the noble Prime Minister of Greece Eleftherios Venizelos and his son Sophocles are laid to rest. More than a monument steeped in history, it’s an oasis of tranquillity, ensconced in a pine forest offering a sweeping panorama of Chania from its vantage point. As the sun takes a bow, the city and sea don an arresting palette that captivates every sense, leaving an indelible imprint on the visitor.
Should you find yourself in Chania, even for a fleeting moment, a sojourn to Falasarna when the skies are clear is essential. Less than an hour’s drive from the city, this expansive coastline beckons, distinguished by its soft, golden sands and the dazzling hues of its crystalline waters. As dusk descends, the sun casts a mesmerising glow on the horizon, crafting sunsets that are nothing short of magical.
To delve into the culinary wealth of this region would necessitate a symphony of words, such is the grandeur of its gastronomic offerings.
Read more about Chania here
The Other Halkidiki
At a cursory glance, one might not earmark Halkidiki as a prominent feature in this autumn-centric travel piece, as its reputation is largely centred around its coastal summer attractions. Yet, it bears an equally high appeal, which is its verdant mountainous terrain. The Holomontas mountain range, dominating the central and northern parts of the peninsula, stands as a sanctuary of cool respite during the sizzling summer days, offering a panorama from its slopes that is both awe-inspiring and elevating, reaching heights up to 1,165 metres.
But the true signature of this mountain lies in its abundant forest. A dense sea of trees, that once bestowed the ancient world with renowned timber, used extensively in shipbuilding. Today, this lush woodland thrives, home to an extensive array of oak, fir, pine, chestnut, and beech trees, interspersed with bubbling brooks and glades sprinkled with wildflowers, encapsulating the untouched beauty of Halkidiki in its embrace.
Furthermore, the forest is renowned for its mushrooms, which one might forage along with wild herbs, mountain tea, and oregano. The woodlands are a haven for wildlife, including deer, wild boars, hares, foxes, rabbits, and other small creatures, as well as an array of bird species. Interestingly, you might have encountered a tree from the Holomontas forests right in your living room without realizing it.
On the southern flank of the mountain is the village of Taxiarchis, with a stone-paved square, the nucleus around which life revolves. Age-old chapels dot the landscape, their sacredness resonating through the centuries. Beautiful homes and guesthouses offer warm welcomes, while tradition permeates through the village streets, resonating with the past, yet vibrant with the breath of the present.
However, the village’s true pride lies in the trees that seem to envelop it in a comforting embrace. Here, amidst temperatures that plunge significantly during the winter, fir trees find a nurturing sanctuary. It led to the initiation of systematic cultivation of fir trees in the 1970s, a venture that envisioned decking the halls of homes across Greece during the festive season of Christmas. These trees are not harvested from the natural forest. Instead, seeds are planted in fields, where they are nurtured for a period of 5 to 10 years before finding their way to markets during the festive season, becoming cherished Christmas trees. A staggering majority, over two-thirds of the Christmas trees in Greece, have their roots in Taxiarchis, connecting the joyous festivities in households across the nation to this humble yet vibrant village nestled in the arms of Holomontas.
In the mountainous reaches of Halkidiki, many pockets of beauty lie waiting to be discovered, but Arnaia in the north distinguishes itself with a striking blend of natural landscapes and the charm emanating from its restored mansions, not to mention its reputable local produce.
Arnaiá’s captivating scenery and the vintage architecture of its old homes would, in themselves, suffice to place it as a prime destination in the highlands of Halkidiki. Yet, it’s the town’s flourishing era in the first half of the 20th century and its ongoing fame for products such as honey, tea, and cheese that enrich what visitors can enjoy while visiting. A walk around Arnaiá is rewarding, whether ambling along its main streets or wandering through its cobblestone alleys. It’s an opportunity to absorb the details of its renovated mansions and ancient homes, which mirror traditional Macedonian architecture, primarily constructed from stone and wood.
Our focus remained primarily on the verdant and mountainous aspects of Halkidiki. However, this doesn’t imply you should forego the coastal pleasures if weather permits. For further details on the region’s beaches and dining options, feel free to explore more here and here.
