The splendours of Naxos seem even more entrancing in the autumn months, with less crowds and more quality time to relish the genuine vibes of this newly popular Cycladic island. Naxos boasts timeless villages, ancient sites that have withstood millennia of change, tavernas serving wonderful food, and a culturally rich tapestry of delightful aromas, tastes, and sights. Visitors quickly understand the impressions of the historian Herodotus, who once penned a heartfelt tribute to the island, praising its myths, wealth, and the impressive statues of Kouros that adorn the temples across the Cyclades, shining brilliantly through the annals of time.
Prominent on the island stands the Venetian castle at the capital’s peak. From medieval times, fortified homes stand shoulder to shoulder, still holding their ground, accompanied by majestic towers scattered across Naxos. These towers still bear the crests of families like Delaroka, Sanoudou, and Karavia. The commanding, angular silhouette of the Portara, at the harbour’s entrance, appears to symbolically divide the two aspects of the capital – the wilder side known locally as Grotta and the more tranquil region called Vintzi.
On one hand, there’s the agricultural side, deeply rooted in the land and its boundless offerings, reminding us of the unique gifts this once Ionic land bestows. On the other, there’s a lighter aspect, one deeply intertwined with the sea, its melodious songs, and oral tales. The latter evokes memories of my father sharing stories with me, filled with Fellini-esque whimsy, jests, and the playful spirit that permeates the island.
The Greek writer Nikos Kazantzakis once remarked that he experienced two of his most carefree years in this very place. “Away from the tumultuous cycle of blood to which Crete was bound, finding a shelter from the winds in Egares, on an island,” that he described as “abounding in sweetness, profound tranquility, the kind faces of its people, heaps of melons, peaches, figs, and a very gentle sea.” You’ll be able to connect with Kazantzakis’ word pretty quickly, as soon as you see the smiles of the people in the always lively village of Kynidaros, or the friendly young faces welcoming you in refined Chalki with its beautiful Vallindra distillery – a place where you can taste the exquisite kitro liqueur, and learn its history. Or even in the tranquil inhabitants of remote Moutsounas, who’ll share the island’s secrets in a way that no guidebook can.
This version of Naxos is most palpable in autumn, not just because the beaches grow quieter, but because the villages truly come back to their authentic life. Savour delectable meze dishes and local cheeses at Platano in the main square of Filoti. Wander into secluded Byzantine churches like Panagia Drosiani from the 7th century, adorned with its unique decoration. Hike up the slopes of Mount Zas, letting nature’s fragrances envelop you. Collect tiny shells from the deserted Kastraki beach, with its few remaining surfers. Visit the Archaeological Museum in the Chora without the queues. And late in the evening, buy fresh, warm bread from Kyra Voula’s wood-fired oven in Apeiranthos – a village, much like Kynidaros, that never truly sleeps.
The shores of Naxos stretch far and wide, connecting Ag. Prokopios to Agia Anna, Mikri Vigla, and Kastraki. They have pristine turquoise waters, inviting sandy beaches, and countless hidden delights – including flamingos lurking in the lagoons. Imagine being in paradise; well, you might as well be, especially when you come across the Taverna Paradiso. This place sits right on the sand, its iconic tamarisk tree and lanterns evoking images from countless postcards.
There’s always a taverna that you’ll stumble into in Naxos that boldly reflects the island’s deep-rooted connection with gastronomy, one of the island’s most seductive qualities. Cheese that’s sourced directly from local producers, greens and vegetables from nearby gardens, and local wines and citron (or ‘kitro’) distilled on the island, delineate its culinary landscape. For here, food is more than sustenance; it’s a marker of culture. Each village boasts at least one family-run taverna known for its signature dishes, which often originate in the vision or know-how of distant ancestors.
While in most islands the sea provides bountiful fish and fresh seafood, in Naxos, the unique landscape and predominantly mountainous villages have naturally shifted the focus towards meat. Goats reign supreme, seen almost everywhere on the island, yet lamb, beef, and pork are not to be overshadowed. Even in the most secluded taverna, one can taste diverse preparations of these meats, often reared and prepared by the restaurateurs themselves with a reverent dedication.
Here, ingredients are revered, echoing the sentiment of Naxian Iakovos Kambanellis, who once remarked, “We are fortunate to have been born here and, as children, no matter the circumstances, to have first witnessed the world and life – in a place that, in my feeling, gifted us with an invaluable existential backdrop.
Naxos Town
Naxos Town (Chora) is not simply a splendid testament to a tapestry that has interwoven various cultures over time, but it also stands as a gentle reminder of Naxos’s multifaceted identity and its intrinsic beauty. Stories persist of the ancient Dionysus, who legend has it, secluded his beloved Ariadne in palaces on a tiny isle linked to the mainland. These tales feel ever-present, as if the heroes within them might still breathe among us today.
There’s a temple which many believe might be dedicated to Apollo. It was never completed due to a war between Naxos and Samos, but its imposing entrance, known locally as Portara, remains. It stands as a sentinel, accompanying some of the island’s most breathtaking sunsets. Even now, it’s an unparalleled spot to watch the sun dip below the horizon, perhaps while sipping a cocktail or indulging in contemporary Greek cuisine at Barozzi (Phone: +30 2285027672), with a menu curated this year by Gikas Xenakis.
Top Stops in Naxos Town
Those craving authentic charcoal-grilled octopus, in the age-old fashion, can always rely on Steki tou Valeta (Phone: +30 2285022335). There’s excitement too as Apanemi (Phone: +30 2285926787), renowned for its fresh seafood and fish, has relocated from distant Moutsouna to the town. Nearby the Portara, one can find Naxos Apothecary (Phone: +30 2285025186) managed by the acclaimed Naxian, Giorgos Korres. Here, one can explore fragrances, savour candles scented with the essence of Naxian soil, and discover all about the island’s abundant gifts that, over the years, found their way into various bottles made in the first pharmacy the family ancestor opened. I never miss trying my favourite scent, Koronos, named after my ancestral homeland, when I visit. The establishment also boasts a restaurant featuring Greek and Naxian dishes (Phone: +30 2285026787). Overlooking the sea and harbour are the rooms of the luxurious Portara Seaside Luxury Suites (Phone: +30 6946434061) with their distinctively designed interiors, making it the perfect haven when staying in Naxos Town.
However enchanting other places may be, there’s a unique charm to walking through the picturesque alleys of the Castle, where Venetian lords once tread. The imposing wooden door still stands proud, introducing visitors to a vivid castle town filled with charming homes, narrow lanes, and delightful shops. This town was once a formidable bastion in the heart of the Aegean, largely established by the Venetian Marco Sanudo. It’s well worth a visit to the striking Delaroca Tower (when open), the Archaeological Museum, and the recently renovated renowned Ursuline Monastery. Close by is the romantic Avaton 1739 (Phone: +30 691234567), situated on the terrace of the Old Ursuline Monastery, while the Like Home Bar (Phone: +30 6942830326) in the Old Town is a classic spot for a drink.
For those seeking a hearty morning or a relaxed afternoon with a refreshing cocktail made from local citron, the sofas at the Kitron-Café Cocktail Bar (Phone: +30 2285027015), roughly halfway along the coastal road towards the town, come highly recommended. But to truly grasp the essence of Naxos, from various products to straw goods and farming items, one must visit Tsimblakis’s general store (Phone: +30 2285022230). Established in 1938, it’s stocked with local goods and Naxian cheeses, including the legendary male heads and gaviera cheeses. Also located in the town are two popular Athens establishments: the Musique Cafe (Phone: +30 2285027278), known for its fresh meats and tasty cheeses, and the Waffle House, renowned for its consistent queues and in-house dairy production. Furthermore, the Rendezvous (Phone: +30 2285022266) is the locals’ go-to spot, and it’s essential to visit for their loukoumades.
More Places Not to Miss in Naxos
The Sacred Site of Iria, Sagri
While the Archaeological Museum and the renowned archaic Kouroi in Melanes offer historical allure, the sacred site of Naxos’s city in Iria, Sagri holds its own charm. This sacred site is believed to be dedicated to Dionysus and Demeter, with twin temples situated amidst the serene beauty of nature. Initially home to four temples, today only the archaic period temple (circa 580 BC) stands, upon which a church was constructed in later years.
Glyfada-Kastraki
Kastraki reveals a different side of Naxos, distinct from the bustling haunts of Agios Prokopios and Agia Anna. Beyond the wild waves beckoning ambitious surfers, and overlooking the vast beach, sits a traditional dwelling surrounded by a beautifully quaint courtyard – Axiotissa (Kastraki, Phone: +30 22850-75107). This establishment is a haven for those who cherish authenticity, evident in the proprietors’ character. Their menu becomes a canvas, painting a narrative that renounces pretentious expectations, excessive profits, and clichéd dishes. This inventive tavern, run by Yiannis Vasilas and Sofia Dimakopoulou, celebrates every facet of Naxian life: from the winds that course through the corrodor between Paros and Naxos, delivering fresh sardines they serve stuffed with capers, to the soil nurturing okra in their garden, presented in a spicy, oven-baked rendition or fried with yogurt.
At Axiotissa, even the humblest of ingredients ascend to greatness, harmonising with organic materials sourced from Greek independent producers or inspired by the island. Consider, for instance, the slow-cooked organic chickpeas with onions and saffron baked in a wood-fired oven. Everything is cooked in their olive oil, made from local “askoudes”, the term Naxians use for large olives. True to its organic ethos, one wouldn’t find commercial beverages at “Axiotissa”. Instead, the wine list has expanded to include organic and biodynamic wines with designated origins.
Try a unique kebab, grilled in their distinctive manner, or the Syrian beefsteak made of minced beef, infused with graviera cheese, peppers, onions, and accompanied by potatoes, pitta, kimchi, and tahini salad. But, more importantly, request the Book of Axiótissa which reveals the taverna’s creative journey, and its history, traditions, and most importantly, the core values of the land, all expressed through the contemporary, playful outlook of this vibrant place that has existed in the island for 20 years.
Kynidaros
Kynidaros, as many know, is the village that never sleeps. Especially during the summer nights, you’d see locals lost in games of backgammon in their courtyards, and children sprinting carefree along the uphill alleys in the early hours, all evoking a sense of boundless freedom. It’s precisely this ambience that made me so deeply fond of the village, where my grandmother’s home was. A place synonymous with play, joy, and melodies, given that violins never stop playing here, in the hometown of Konitopoulos. One reason locals rarely ventured to Kynidaros, which has maintained its genuine character, was its inaccessibility; it took until the 1990s to pave the main road leading to the village.
Our primary entertainment was the local café. As kids, we could indulge in the delectable fried potatoes with cheese, while the adults savoured meats reared by the Klouvatos family. Over time, the café expanded. Grills were stationed in the rear garden, which soon brimmed with extra tables, drawing more visitors eager to taste arguably the finest grilled meats on the island. Giorgos Klouvatos, famously known by the nickname “Vasilarakios” – at the taverna Tou Vasilarakiou (Phone: +30 22850-43088) – (in Naxos, nicknames are plentiful and almost mandatory), mastered the art of cooking meat, serving up dishes rivaling the most upscale gastronomic meat restaurants in Athens.
Here, special dry-ageing refrigerators take pride of place. If you ask, the owner will gladly share his secrets regarding the meat maturation process. His skewered meat is renowned, the local ‘gardoumia‘ (as the inhabitants of Naxos call it) is exquisite, while his lamb chops are always impeccably grilled. Even the potatoes sprinkled with cheese could be considered as indulgent as the gratifying dessert. And don’t forget to ask for some of his signature cheeses, like the sour cheese, even after your main course.
Korónos
In one of the village’s most secluded spots, surrounded by the imposing mountains that once made the Naxians wealthy through emery mining, lies Korónos. Alternatively referred to as the crown jewel of Naxos’s mountainous villages. Some of its houses lay in ruins, while others remain untouched by time. Korónos holds true to its original character, free from the influence of popular travel guides and untouched by the trends of global Instagram enthusiasts. This very authenticity can also be found in Matína Mandilará’s tavern, commonly known as “Platsa” (Matína-Stávros-Platsa, Korónos, Phone: +30 2285051243). This eatery alone offers a compelling reason for travellers to undertake the journey to this distant yet distinguished village centre.
Here, you’ll find a taverna hidden in the heart of the village, shaded by trees and a beautiful vine canopy. Its setting resembles a theatre backdrop from another era, frozen in time. Similarly timeless is the quality of its dishes, boasting the homemade taste reminiscent of a bygone age. Inside, walls adorned with old village and family photos bear witness to the freshness of the meats, all sourced and prepared by Matína herself. She also dons the hat of a butcher when necessary. Despite her ceaseless daily efforts in the kitchen and beyond, she’ll always greet you warmly and serve dishes crafted from the freshest ingredients available that day. Among her staples are some of the finest lamb chops you’ll ever taste, fluffy fried potatoes, and her very own house wine. If you’re lucky, your meal might end with refreshing watermelon, cool cherry juice freshly made by her, and, of course, the essential spoon sweet. Truly a dreamy experience.
Apeiranthos
One cannot traverse Naxos without setting foot in Apeiranthos—or as locals endearingly refer to it, Aperathou. This village stands as a testament to the island’s rich mountainous heritage, a picturesque embodiment of tradition with its stone-crafted architecture. Erected between two imposing 17th-century towers, the settlement captivates its visitors with its Venetian architectural influence. Its inhabitants have ardently maintained its authentic character, evident in its charming alleyways, arches, and delightful nooks.
This village is not just about its aesthetic charm. It’s renowned for its weaving traditions, where you’ll find numerous crafts still flourishing. There’s the 17th-century Bardani Tower to marvel at, as well as the restored Zevgoli Tower from the same era. If you’re inclined towards history and nature, the village has a whopping four museums—the Archaeological, the Folklore, the Natural History, and the Geological.
In the heart of the village sits the now famous Lefteris (Phone: +30 2285 061333), reminiscent of classic Greek tavernas, as if plucked straight from an old Greek film. Its balcony offers unparalleled views, while its courtyard is shaded by pergolas draped in grapevines, providing a refreshing canopy. Here, the culinary delights range from generous slabs of steak to a renowned stuffed beef patty with Naxos cheese, and lamb dishes, invariably complemented by stuffed courgette flowers, greens, and a fresh salad that boasts raw courgette and the finest cheeses from Naxos—all sourced from their own garden.
At Lefteris, and indeed throughout Apeiranthos, one must sample the local Rosto – a stuffed vegtable dish with garlic and occasionally wild herbs, rice, and raisins, slow-cooked to such perfection you feel like you’re having a psychedelic experience. For dessert, their galaktoboureko (custard pie) or the cheese pie drizzled with local honey is highly recommended. And before you depart, make sure to visit Mrs. Voula’s wood oven—one of the few remaining in the Cyclades. Impressively, the taverna remains open even at midnight.
Egares
Just beyond Chora, set amid trees and the beauty of nature lies Egares, a village treasured by Kazantzakis. Here, one can find the traditional Taverna tou Hari (Phone: +30 2285062266), a spot loved by both visitors and locals. Those in the know flock here, drawn by the promise of dishes that range from the freshest goat to seasonal game like rabbit stifado. Besides the hearty and fresh dishes such as the rustic salad with sour cheese and fresh greens, one must try the extraordinarily generous omelette, handcrafted by Mrs. Eugenia, Haris’ wife. Made with at least ten free-range chicken eggs and fried in fresh olive oil with Naxos potatoes, it’s an omelette experience quite unparalleled.
If you have room for more, the rooster with pasta promises another moment of culinary delight. The tavern isn’t merely traditional in style but also embodies a true family spirit. Since 1988, all family members have shared the responsibilities, upholding the tavern’s esteemed reputation on the island. Also worthy of note is the village sausage, prepared from a variety of meats such as goat, beef, or pork.
