For many of us, long holidays and seaside dips have sadly reached their end. But that doesn’t mean we need to put a halt to our wanderlust. The slow but sure onset of autumn presents the ideal opportunity for a day trip to Delphi, a haven that seamlessly marries one of the most prominent and globally renowned Greek archaeological sites with a landscape of unparalleled beauty.
Located in the folds of Mount Parnassus, this spot promises the fresh embrace of the mountains on a warm day, while simultaneously offering the beckoning allure of the sea, with the beautiful coasts of Itea and Galaxidi in the Corinthian Gulf just a half-hour drive away. Our recent expedition to this picturesque place was one we heartily recommend for welcoming the new season.
A Brief Respite in Charming Krya
Having managed to start quite early, we afforded ourselves the opportunity for a brief coffee break in Krya of Livadia. The temperature that day was not overly high, but this spot remains a cool oasis even on sweltering days. The river, tiny waterfalls, streams, watermills, and the stone bridge compose a scene that’s truly out of a fairytale. It was the perfect “appetiser” before we headed to our main destination: the archaeological site of Delphi.
A Journey to the “Navel of the Earth”
Let us begin with a serving of ancient Greek mythology. According to legend, Zeus released two eagles, one towards the east and the other towards the west. These majestic birds met at Delphi, known as the “Navel of the Earth”, establishing the rationale for the creation of the Oracle there. It stands as the most significant oracle of the ancient Greek world, its fame spreading even beyond the borders of Greece, evidenced by findings of offerings from regions as far-flung as Armenia and Syria. Here, individuals would seek answers to the most extraordinarily critical questions of the Pythia, having first cleansed themselves with water from the Castalian Spring, which is situated adjacent to the protected archaeological site.
We parted with the 12-euro ticket fee for the archaeological site and the museum (just so you know, it’s 6 euros if you qualify for a discount) and set forth. Our first port of call was the Tholos of Athena Pronaia and the Gymnasium, nestled at a slightly lower level across from the museum. Moving on, we ascended to the main archaeological site, the beating heart of it all, where you can find the Temple of Apollo, the ancient theatre, the stadium, and the treasuries—gifts from various cities (the most renowned of which is the restored Athenian Treasury).
For those yet to tread the paths of Delphi, a handy piece of advice: be prepared for a bit of a hike, it’s quite the uphill journey and not exactly a stroll in the park. A good pair of trainers wouldn’t go amiss. The archaeological site sprawls across a sloping hillside, so as you climb higher, the vistas that unfurl, encompassing mountains and olive groves, are nothing short of magical, enveloped in an almost mystical aura. It becomes abundantly clear why the ancients chose this very spot to erect an oracle, a place, so to speak, imbued with “magical” properties. The highest accessible point of the archaeological site is the stadium, and from here, the view is truly staggering. Fortuitously, we had the foresight to bring along a top-notch camera, ready to capture every mesmerising moment.
A Breathtaking Museum
The archaeological excavations at Delphi began in the late 19th century and spanned for decades. A place of such significance naturally gave rise to institutions of great import. The Delphi Museum first opened its doors in 1903, and its contemporary version was firmly established in 2000. Part of the museum’s charm lies in the way the exhibits are showcased, meticulously highlighting ancient Greek religion and art, as well as the periods of both flourishing and decline of the oracle. Among the exhibits, the gargantuan marble Sphinx of the Naxians caught our eye, and of course, the statue of the Charioteer.
It was early in the afternoon when we wrapped up our journey into Greek antiquity. We could have continued with coffee and a meal in the small city of Delphi or in Arachova. But since the weather still carried whispers of summer, we opted to venture near the sea.
A Visit to Nearby Galaxidi
Galaxidi is about a 35-minute drive from Delphi, a trip that takes you through the picturesque olive grove of Amfissa, which is considered the oldest olive grove in Greece. Although the summer fire of 2022 claimed some trees, the majority remains intact, standing as a vibrant testament to nature and perhaps the most traditional Greek cultivation. Furthermore, the final coastal segment of the trip – the stretch that leads from Itea to Galaxidi – has been included in special stages of the Acropolis Rally. So, our excursion encompassed driving under “WRC conditions”.
Delicious Gastronomy
Following a brief wander through the town, rich in maritime tradition and graced with the mansions of ship captains, our expedition led us to the fish tavern Skelletovrachos (Tel: 2265 041303), in the harbour of Galaxidi. Here, freshly caught seafood is turned into tantalising new forms with a splash of creativity. Examples of this culinary artistry include the delectable sauce accompanying the prawns and the spicy risotto, enriched with the ink of cuttlefish.
But the dish destined to linger longest in our memory was the fava bean puree, emboldened with hints of thyme and honey, culminating in an extraordinary gastronomic experience. Before embarking on our journey home, spurred on by the recommendations of locals, we made a pit stop at Konaki sweet shop (Tel: 2265 042258) to for some rice ravaní and a local signature dessert, a spoon sweet made with almonds – both were nothing short of exquisite. This was our final indulgence before hitting the road back to reality.
Delphi and its surrounding regions undeniably form a ‘must-visit’ destination for anyone enamoured with culture and the natural beauty of Greece. At a mere two-and-a-half-hour distance from Athens, rich with the opportunity to combine mountainous adventures with seaside escapes depending on the weather or your disposition, makes it an alluring travel destination.
Some Tips for a Trip to Delphi
Should you choose to venture to Delphi on a day when Athens is not engulfed in excessive heat, it would be prudent to carry a light jacket with you, especially if you plan to spend the night on the slopes of Mount Parnassus.
To fully appreciate the archaeological site and the museum, set aside at least a good three hours.
It would be wise to opt for comfortable, closed-toe footwear, as you’ll find yourself walking quite a bit within the archaeological area.
If you wish to dine within the very village of Delphi, two stellar choices await you. Vakhos indulges you with splendid views and home-cooked dishes steeped in motherly love, while at To Patriko Mas (Tel: 2265 082150), you can indulge in your meal – we recommend the grilled options – under the shade of a mulberry tree.
A lesser-known village that warrants a visit in the area is Chrissó, a haven retaining its traditional charm, situated merely 10 minutes from Delphi and an equal distance from the seaside town of Itea.
From the 1st of September, the timetable for the archaeological site shifts to 8:00 am to 7:30 pm. Every fortnight, the closing time is brought forward by half an hour. The museum opens its doors from 8:00 am to 8:00 pm, adjusting its schedule on Tuesdays to 10:00 am to 5:00 pm.
