You don’t need much of a reason to come to Thessaloniki. There’s always a reason, and if there isn’t one, you’re sure to find one. After all, it’s not far, just an hour’s flight from Athens. Anyway, Thessaloniki is Thessaloniki. Charming, vibrant, lively and seductive – a place that we Athenians, myself included, love to wander through its streets, stroll along its beach and savour all the delicacies it generously offers. I recently found myself in this beautiful northern city for the Thessaloniki International Film Festival (TIFF). In addition to the many hours I spent in the cinemas watching films, I had the opportunity to wander around and visit not only new haunts but also old favourites.
A more than obligatory stop is at Bantis (Panagias Faneromenis 33, Phone: +30 2310510355), famous for the most delicious bougatsa (a cream-filled pie dusted with powdered sugar and cinnamon)- because Thessaloniki without bougatsa is unimaginable. Located slightly uphill from the centre, it’s worth the climb and serves both savoury and sweet bougatsas with fantastic puff pastry. My personal order is always the same: one with cheese and cream, sprinkled with icing sugar and a hint of cinnamon. On Sundays there are many other variations of bougatsa.
Next up is Valenio Coffee Vibes (Iktinou 6, Phone: +30 2311291518) for a filter coffee or two or three espressos, depending on your mood. Valantis Lambrianidis, the owner, roasts select coffees and always has something special to offer. He has recently opened a new space in Ladadika where he holds workshops and training sessions.
array(1) {
[0]=>
array(5) {
["file"]=>
array(24) {
["ID"]=>
int(301190)
["id"]=>
int(301190)
["title"]=>
string(29) "mpantis-bougatsa-thessaloniki"
["filename"]=>
string(34) "mpantis-bougatsa-thessaloniki.webp"
["filesize"]=>
int(142780)
["url"]=>
string(83) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/mpantis-bougatsa-thessaloniki.webp"
["link"]=>
string(122) "https://www.travel.gr/en/experiences-ee/48-mouthwatering-hours-in-thessaloniki/attachment/mpantis-bougatsa-thessaloniki-2/"
["alt"]=>
string(0) ""
["author"]=>
string(2) "19"
["description"]=>
string(50) "Visit Bantis for the best bougatsa/Photo: Facebook"
["caption"]=>
string(0) ""
["name"]=>
string(31) "mpantis-bougatsa-thessaloniki-2"
["status"]=>
string(7) "inherit"
["uploaded_to"]=>
int(301160)
["date"]=>
string(19) "2023-11-23 10:53:01"
["modified"]=>
string(19) "2023-11-23 10:53:52"
["menu_order"]=>
int(0)
["mime_type"]=>
string(10) "image/webp"
["type"]=>
string(5) "image"
["subtype"]=>
string(4) "webp"
["icon"]=>
string(58) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-includes/images/media/default.png"
["width"]=>
int(720)
["height"]=>
int(960)
["sizes"]=>
array(18) {
["thumbnail"]=>
string(91) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/mpantis-bougatsa-thessaloniki-150x150.webp"
["thumbnail-width"]=>
int(150)
["thumbnail-height"]=>
int(150)
["medium"]=>
string(91) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/mpantis-bougatsa-thessaloniki-225x300.webp"
["medium-width"]=>
int(225)
["medium-height"]=>
int(300)
["medium_large"]=>
string(83) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/mpantis-bougatsa-thessaloniki.webp"
["medium_large-width"]=>
int(720)
["medium_large-height"]=>
int(960)
["large"]=>
string(83) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/mpantis-bougatsa-thessaloniki.webp"
["large-width"]=>
int(720)
["large-height"]=>
int(960)
["1536x1536"]=>
string(83) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/mpantis-bougatsa-thessaloniki.webp"
["1536x1536-width"]=>
int(720)
["1536x1536-height"]=>
int(960)
["2048x2048"]=>
string(83) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/mpantis-bougatsa-thessaloniki.webp"
["2048x2048-width"]=>
int(720)
["2048x2048-height"]=>
int(960)
}
}
["desc"]=>
bool(true)
["image_position"]=>
string(6) "center"
["image_link_to"]=>
string(0) ""
["open_link_in_new_tab"]=>
bool(false)
}
}
array(1) {
[0]=>
array(5) {
["file"]=>
array(24) {
["ID"]=>
int(301206)
["id"]=>
int(301206)
["title"]=>
string(47) "369469648_207876785596484_1598816388266677522_n"
["filename"]=>
string(51) "369469648_207876785596484_1598816388266677522_n.jpg"
["filesize"]=>
int(236562)
["url"]=>
string(100) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/369469648_207876785596484_1598816388266677522_n.jpg"
["link"]=>
string(138) "https://www.travel.gr/en/experiences-ee/48-mouthwatering-hours-in-thessaloniki/attachment/369469648_207876785596484_1598816388266677522_n/"
["alt"]=>
string(0) ""
["author"]=>
string(2) "19"
["description"]=>
string(39) "European vibes at Naked/Photo: Facebook"
["caption"]=>
string(0) ""
["name"]=>
string(47) "369469648_207876785596484_1598816388266677522_n"
["status"]=>
string(7) "inherit"
["uploaded_to"]=>
int(301160)
["date"]=>
string(19) "2023-11-23 10:59:16"
["modified"]=>
string(19) "2023-11-23 10:59:44"
["menu_order"]=>
int(0)
["mime_type"]=>
string(10) "image/jpeg"
["type"]=>
string(5) "image"
["subtype"]=>
string(4) "jpeg"
["icon"]=>
string(58) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-includes/images/media/default.png"
["width"]=>
int(1440)
["height"]=>
int(1800)
["sizes"]=>
array(18) {
["thumbnail"]=>
string(108) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/369469648_207876785596484_1598816388266677522_n-150x150.jpg"
["thumbnail-width"]=>
int(150)
["thumbnail-height"]=>
int(150)
["medium"]=>
string(108) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/369469648_207876785596484_1598816388266677522_n-240x300.jpg"
["medium-width"]=>
int(240)
["medium-height"]=>
int(300)
["medium_large"]=>
string(108) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/369469648_207876785596484_1598816388266677522_n-768x960.jpg"
["medium_large-width"]=>
int(768)
["medium_large-height"]=>
int(960)
["large"]=>
string(109) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/369469648_207876785596484_1598816388266677522_n-819x1024.jpg"
["large-width"]=>
int(819)
["large-height"]=>
int(1024)
["1536x1536"]=>
string(110) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/369469648_207876785596484_1598816388266677522_n-1229x1536.jpg"
["1536x1536-width"]=>
int(1229)
["1536x1536-height"]=>
int(1536)
["2048x2048"]=>
string(100) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/369469648_207876785596484_1598816388266677522_n.jpg"
["2048x2048-width"]=>
int(1440)
["2048x2048-height"]=>
int(1800)
}
}
["desc"]=>
bool(true)
["image_position"]=>
string(6) "center"
["image_link_to"]=>
string(0) ""
["open_link_in_new_tab"]=>
bool(false)
}
}
Speaking of coffee, I also visited other coffee shops. First, I stopped for a quick espresso at deka.epta (Alexandrou Svolou 24, Phone: +30 2310270063) on the pedestrian street. They collaborate with the Samba company and offer a balanced blend as well as single origin coffees. I also found myself at Naked (Filippou 62, Phone: +30 2310260487), which has recently opened. It’s a place that reminds you of old coffeehouses (with mosaic floors, marble tables, wooden chairs), but with a European flair. The coffee they serve comes from Un Common, one of Amsterdam’s most renowned roasters.
They also serve brunch, natural wines and cocktails. Another new coffee shop is Peach Boy (Ermou 44, Phone: +30 231 022 8228), which has opened its third location in the city on Ioannou Delliou Square. It’s bigger, brighter and has more tables, although they still seem few as they fill up early with students. The last place I visited was the small, corner Shed (Patriarchou Dionysiou E 11), with its Scandinavian style and tables on the pedestrian street behind the Acheiropoietos church. Their coffee, from the Athenian company Kudu.
array(1) {
[0]=>
array(5) {
["file"]=>
array(24) {
["ID"]=>
int(301242)
["id"]=>
int(301242)
["title"]=>
string(40) "peach-boy-thess-e1700563262279-1295x1536"
["filename"]=>
string(46) "peach-boy-thess-e1700563262279-1295x1536-1.jpg"
["filesize"]=>
int(355410)
["url"]=>
string(95) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/peach-boy-thess-e1700563262279-1295x1536-1.jpg"
["link"]=>
string(131) "https://www.travel.gr/en/experiences-ee/48-mouthwatering-hours-in-thessaloniki/attachment/peach-boy-thess-e1700563262279-1295x1536/"
["alt"]=>
string(0) ""
["author"]=>
string(2) "19"
["description"]=>
string(57) "Peach Boy, popular with the student crowd/Photo: Facebook"
["caption"]=>
string(0) ""
["name"]=>
string(40) "peach-boy-thess-e1700563262279-1295x1536"
["status"]=>
string(7) "inherit"
["uploaded_to"]=>
int(301160)
["date"]=>
string(19) "2023-11-23 11:19:51"
["modified"]=>
string(19) "2023-11-23 11:21:43"
["menu_order"]=>
int(0)
["mime_type"]=>
string(10) "image/jpeg"
["type"]=>
string(5) "image"
["subtype"]=>
string(4) "jpeg"
["icon"]=>
string(58) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-includes/images/media/default.png"
["width"]=>
int(1295)
["height"]=>
int(1536)
["sizes"]=>
array(18) {
["thumbnail"]=>
string(103) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/peach-boy-thess-e1700563262279-1295x1536-1-150x150.jpg"
["thumbnail-width"]=>
int(150)
["thumbnail-height"]=>
int(150)
["medium"]=>
string(103) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/peach-boy-thess-e1700563262279-1295x1536-1-253x300.jpg"
["medium-width"]=>
int(253)
["medium-height"]=>
int(300)
["medium_large"]=>
string(103) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/peach-boy-thess-e1700563262279-1295x1536-1-768x911.jpg"
["medium_large-width"]=>
int(768)
["medium_large-height"]=>
int(911)
["large"]=>
string(104) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/peach-boy-thess-e1700563262279-1295x1536-1-863x1024.jpg"
["large-width"]=>
int(863)
["large-height"]=>
int(1024)
["1536x1536"]=>
string(95) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/peach-boy-thess-e1700563262279-1295x1536-1.jpg"
["1536x1536-width"]=>
int(1295)
["1536x1536-height"]=>
int(1536)
["2048x2048"]=>
string(95) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/peach-boy-thess-e1700563262279-1295x1536-1.jpg"
["2048x2048-width"]=>
int(1295)
["2048x2048-height"]=>
int(1536)
}
}
["desc"]=>
bool(true)
["image_position"]=>
string(6) "center"
["image_link_to"]=>
string(0) ""
["open_link_in_new_tab"]=>
bool(false)
}
}
array(1) {
[0]=>
array(5) {
["file"]=>
array(24) {
["ID"]=>
int(301235)
["id"]=>
int(301235)
["title"]=>
string(23) "cin-cin-thess-1024x1024"
["filename"]=>
string(30) "cin-cin-thess-1024x1024-1.webp"
["filesize"]=>
int(93814)
["url"]=>
string(79) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/cin-cin-thess-1024x1024-1.webp"
["link"]=>
string(114) "https://www.travel.gr/en/experiences-ee/48-mouthwatering-hours-in-thessaloniki/attachment/cin-cin-thess-1024x1024/"
["alt"]=>
string(0) ""
["author"]=>
string(2) "19"
["description"]=>
string(44) "Book in advance for Cin Cin/Photo: Facebook "
["caption"]=>
string(0) ""
["name"]=>
string(23) "cin-cin-thess-1024x1024"
["status"]=>
string(7) "inherit"
["uploaded_to"]=>
int(301160)
["date"]=>
string(19) "2023-11-23 11:18:56"
["modified"]=>
string(19) "2023-11-23 11:25:57"
["menu_order"]=>
int(0)
["mime_type"]=>
string(10) "image/webp"
["type"]=>
string(5) "image"
["subtype"]=>
string(4) "webp"
["icon"]=>
string(58) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-includes/images/media/default.png"
["width"]=>
int(1024)
["height"]=>
int(1024)
["sizes"]=>
array(18) {
["thumbnail"]=>
string(87) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/cin-cin-thess-1024x1024-1-150x150.webp"
["thumbnail-width"]=>
int(150)
["thumbnail-height"]=>
int(150)
["medium"]=>
string(87) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/cin-cin-thess-1024x1024-1-300x300.webp"
["medium-width"]=>
int(300)
["medium-height"]=>
int(300)
["medium_large"]=>
string(87) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/cin-cin-thess-1024x1024-1-768x768.webp"
["medium_large-width"]=>
int(768)
["medium_large-height"]=>
int(768)
["large"]=>
string(79) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/cin-cin-thess-1024x1024-1.webp"
["large-width"]=>
int(1024)
["large-height"]=>
int(1024)
["1536x1536"]=>
string(79) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/cin-cin-thess-1024x1024-1.webp"
["1536x1536-width"]=>
int(1024)
["1536x1536-height"]=>
int(1024)
["2048x2048"]=>
string(79) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/cin-cin-thess-1024x1024-1.webp"
["2048x2048-width"]=>
int(1024)
["2048x2048-height"]=>
int(1024)
}
}
["desc"]=>
bool(true)
["image_position"]=>
string(6) "center"
["image_link_to"]=>
string(0) ""
["open_link_in_new_tab"]=>
bool(false)
}
}
I went for brunch, of course. It’s a must in a city where it’s served everywhere. A traditional value is Estrella (P. Mela 48, Phone: +30 2310272045), where I always go for their savoury and sweet, sumptuous pancakes, but especially for the fantastic breakfast pizza, as they call it, made with Thessaloniki bagel dough and topped with bacon, two fried eggs, gruyere and homemade mayonnaise. A good brunch can also be had at the neighbouring Cin Cin (Iktinou 22, Phone: +30 2310223350), housed in an impressive neoclassical building. It’s also hard to get a table without a reservation.
I also visited Allegro, on the fifth floor of the M2 building of the Concert Hall (25th Martiou, Phone: 2310895895), which has recently undergone a thorough renovation. The view is fantastic, but the food prepared by chef Giannos Sdougos will impress you.
array(1) {
[0]=>
array(5) {
["file"]=>
array(24) {
["ID"]=>
int(301259)
["id"]=>
int(301259)
["title"]=>
string(17) "allegro-1229x1536"
["filename"]=>
string(24) "allegro-1229x1536-1.webp"
["filesize"]=>
int(135154)
["url"]=>
string(73) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/allegro-1229x1536-1.webp"
["link"]=>
string(108) "https://www.travel.gr/en/experiences-ee/48-mouthwatering-hours-in-thessaloniki/attachment/allegro-1229x1536/"
["alt"]=>
string(0) ""
["author"]=>
string(2) "19"
["description"]=>
string(47) "Mouthwatering dishes at Allegro/Photo: Facebook"
["caption"]=>
string(0) ""
["name"]=>
string(17) "allegro-1229x1536"
["status"]=>
string(7) "inherit"
["uploaded_to"]=>
int(301160)
["date"]=>
string(19) "2023-11-23 11:28:18"
["modified"]=>
string(19) "2023-11-23 11:43:34"
["menu_order"]=>
int(0)
["mime_type"]=>
string(10) "image/webp"
["type"]=>
string(5) "image"
["subtype"]=>
string(4) "webp"
["icon"]=>
string(58) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-includes/images/media/default.png"
["width"]=>
int(1229)
["height"]=>
int(1536)
["sizes"]=>
array(18) {
["thumbnail"]=>
string(81) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/allegro-1229x1536-1-150x150.webp"
["thumbnail-width"]=>
int(150)
["thumbnail-height"]=>
int(150)
["medium"]=>
string(81) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/allegro-1229x1536-1-240x300.webp"
["medium-width"]=>
int(240)
["medium-height"]=>
int(300)
["medium_large"]=>
string(81) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/allegro-1229x1536-1-768x960.webp"
["medium_large-width"]=>
int(768)
["medium_large-height"]=>
int(960)
["large"]=>
string(82) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/allegro-1229x1536-1-819x1024.webp"
["large-width"]=>
int(819)
["large-height"]=>
int(1024)
["1536x1536"]=>
string(73) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/allegro-1229x1536-1.webp"
["1536x1536-width"]=>
int(1229)
["1536x1536-height"]=>
int(1536)
["2048x2048"]=>
string(73) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/allegro-1229x1536-1.webp"
["2048x2048-width"]=>
int(1229)
["2048x2048-height"]=>
int(1536)
}
}
["desc"]=>
bool(true)
["image_position"]=>
string(6) "center"
["image_link_to"]=>
string(0) ""
["open_link_in_new_tab"]=>
bool(false)
}
}
As I wandered through the narrow streets, I noticed that the trend of new-generation bakeries, you know, the ones with sourdough starters and carefully selected flours, has arrived in Thessaloniki. The trend started with the Ergon team’s 72 Artisanal Bakehouse in Modiano Market, which now has a second location in the city centre at Palaion Patron Germanou 2. Their bread is made with a slow 72-hour sourdough starter, hence the number in their name. Another bakery, MLRT Sourdough Microbakery (Mitropolitou Iosif 15, Phone: +30 2310220223), offers five different types of slow-fermenting, 18-hour sourdough bread and some really nice pies.
array(1) {
[0]=>
array(5) {
["file"]=>
array(24) {
["ID"]=>
int(301266)
["id"]=>
int(301266)
["title"]=>
string(59) "Κουζίνα-της-Γιαγιάς-Σοφίας-1229x1536"
["filename"]=>
string(66) "Κουζίνα-της-Γιαγιάς-Σοφίας-1229x1536-1.webp"
["filesize"]=>
int(228292)
["url"]=>
string(115) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/Κουζίνα-της-Γιαγιάς-Σοφίας-1229x1536-1.webp"
["link"]=>
string(127) "https://www.travel.gr/en/experiences-ee/48-mouthwatering-hours-in-thessaloniki/attachment/koyzina-tis-giagias-sofias-1229x1536/"
["alt"]=>
string(0) ""
["author"]=>
string(2) "19"
["description"]=>
string(45) "At Kouzina Tis Yiayias Sofias/Photo: Facebook"
["caption"]=>
string(0) ""
["name"]=>
string(36) "koyzina-tis-giagias-sofias-1229x1536"
["status"]=>
string(7) "inherit"
["uploaded_to"]=>
int(301160)
["date"]=>
string(19) "2023-11-23 11:32:28"
["modified"]=>
string(19) "2023-11-23 11:33:31"
["menu_order"]=>
int(0)
["mime_type"]=>
string(10) "image/webp"
["type"]=>
string(5) "image"
["subtype"]=>
string(4) "webp"
["icon"]=>
string(58) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-includes/images/media/default.png"
["width"]=>
int(1229)
["height"]=>
int(1536)
["sizes"]=>
array(18) {
["thumbnail"]=>
string(123) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/Κουζίνα-της-Γιαγιάς-Σοφίας-1229x1536-1-150x150.webp"
["thumbnail-width"]=>
int(150)
["thumbnail-height"]=>
int(150)
["medium"]=>
string(123) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/Κουζίνα-της-Γιαγιάς-Σοφίας-1229x1536-1-240x300.webp"
["medium-width"]=>
int(240)
["medium-height"]=>
int(300)
["medium_large"]=>
string(123) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/Κουζίνα-της-Γιαγιάς-Σοφίας-1229x1536-1-768x960.webp"
["medium_large-width"]=>
int(768)
["medium_large-height"]=>
int(960)
["large"]=>
string(124) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/Κουζίνα-της-Γιαγιάς-Σοφίας-1229x1536-1-819x1024.webp"
["large-width"]=>
int(819)
["large-height"]=>
int(1024)
["1536x1536"]=>
string(115) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/Κουζίνα-της-Γιαγιάς-Σοφίας-1229x1536-1.webp"
["1536x1536-width"]=>
int(1229)
["1536x1536-height"]=>
int(1536)
["2048x2048"]=>
string(115) "https://www.travel.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/Κουζίνα-της-Γιαγιάς-Σοφίας-1229x1536-1.webp"
["2048x2048-width"]=>
int(1229)
["2048x2048-height"]=>
int(1536)
}
}
["desc"]=>
bool(true)
["image_position"]=>
string(6) "center"
["image_link_to"]=>
string(0) ""
["open_link_in_new_tab"]=>
bool(false)
}
}
Moving on to street food, things get even more interesting. I tried sujuk made from minced octopus, tuna burgers and swordfish souvlaki at the brand new Delifish by Trizoni, which opened at the entrance to the Modiano market (Vasileos Irakleiou 33, Phone: +30 2310265032). I grabbed a minced meat pie at Kouzina tis Giagias Sofias (El. Venizelou 55, Phone: +30 2310265414) with handmade dough, kneaded and rolled on the spot, devoured fantastic fries at Pommes (Isauron 5, Phone: +30 2310239179), and a very tasty Formaggi pizza with six different Italian and Greek cheeses from the new Dos Margaritas pizzeria (Emiliou Riadi 5, Phone: +30 2310831832), which uses a dough that is slowly fermented for seven days for its Neapolitan-style pizzas.
Finally, I couldn’t miss a visit to a place that is the talk of the town. I’m talking about the much talked about Poster (Syggrou 6 & Paikou 2, Phone: +30 2310547384), a gastropub where we find the Greek-Palestinian chef Vasilis Hamam in the kitchen. Modern and youthful, it serves tasty dishes like the incredible lamb tartare I tried, with fricassee oil and trahana crackers, and the traditional Palestinian dish musakhan, with chicken, a plethora of spices and handmade pita.
During those two plus days in Thessaloniki, my base was the Holiday Inn (Monastiriou 8, Phone: +30 2310563100), which has recently undergone a fantastic refurbishment of its ground floor. It’s conveniently located a short walk from the city centre, just ten minutes’ walk from the heart of the city. Also on the beautifully renovated top floor on the 9th floor is the bar-restaurant Level 9, where you can enjoy your meal or drink overlooking the Thermaic Gulf.
