Escaping to lovely Nafplio, in northeastern Peloponnese’s Argolida region, is always tempting, especially as the weather warms up and the spring light highlights the colours of the locale. The town’s pink and yellowish listed neoclassical buildings, purplish red bougainvilleas climbing up buildings with blue-coloured window frames, the sea’s blue surrounding the Venetian water castle of Bourtzi, and the vibrant green colour of prickly pears covering the Acronauplia, the Inner Castle, or oldest part of the city, all contribute to this city’s overall charm.
Nafplio, once the country’s capital, is one of Greece’s most impressive cities, backed by a rich history, alluring monuments, including Venetian and Ottoman-era attractions scattered along narrow alleys. This picturesque destination and its surrounding natural environment attract visitors from all over the world. No matter how many times one may have visited this place, there are always new things and dimensions to discover, offering good reason for return visits.
Revisit history through the course towards the Greek Revolution
Nafplio’s history is omnipresent, statues, monuments and commemorative plaques at buildings reminding of the city’s glorious past. It stretches back to the Mycenaean period and includes a succession of occupations by the Franks, Venetians and Ottomans. Following Aegina, Nafplio became the next capital of independent Greece, between 1827 and 1834.
Begin your historical exploration of the city with monuments dedicated to Greek Revolution heroes of 1821, to be seen from one end of Nafplio to the other. Look for the statue of the fighter Staikos Staikopoulos – the famous conqueror of Palamidi, the fortress to the east of the Acronauplia, and liberator of Nafplio – on 25th Martiou Avenue, the uphill stretch towards the castle. Take a leisurely stroll to the Staikopoulos park and, if you happen to be in Nafplio on November 29, witness the ceremony staged annually, on this date, in honour of Staikopoulos. Within close proximity, at Nikitas Nikitaras Square, hosting the court building, inspect the monument created in honour of Nikitaras, the military chief celebrated for his fighting prowess. Also check the statue of Ioannis Kapodistrias, modern Greece’s first head of state, and then head on for Trion Navarhon Square to see the burial monument of General Dimitrios Ypsilantis, where his bones are kept. The governor house and residence of Kapodistrias once stood at this square but no traces have survived as a result of a devastating fire. On Papanikolaou Street, look for a marble plaque marking the house resided by Mando Mavrogenous, a heroine of the Greek War of Independence, while a walk along the uphill alleys leading to Konstantinoupoleos Street reaches another commemorative plaque at a listed building, reminding of its rich three-chapter history. It served as the executive building of the Kapodistrias administration; the residence of Ottoman military officer Aga Pasha; and, during the second period of Venetian rule, was the home of the governor-general of the Peloponnese.
The route of commemorative plaques leads to Agios Spiridonas church, outside of which Kapodistrias was assassinated by rivals Konstantinos and Georgios Mavromichalis. Inside the church, a painting depicts the wounded Kapodistrias as he falls. To end your brief historical journey of Nafplio, definitely go by Staikopoulou Street to marvel at modern Greece’s first Parliament building, housed at the Aga Pasha mosque following architectural revisions. Cultural events and exhibitions are nowadays often staged at this building, providing visitors the opportunity to also view the interior. It features a large circular hall with arches and an imposing blue dome.
Organise your own thematic walk at the city
There is always something new to discover at Nafplio’s old town, no matter how many time you explore the gorgeous alleys, which, in spring, are filled with flowering climbing plants as well as lemon trees filled with lemons. Focus on themes and details that interest you most and which you may have missed on previous visits, such as traditional and neoclassical houses, all beautifully coloured; the uphill steps leading to roads with magnificent views; the superb balconies with carved railings; fascinating doors, brightly coloured; even their elaborate handles.
Discover the town’s historic churches
Nafplio’s Vrahateika district, at an elevated section of the old town, is the perfect place to begin your exploration of the city’s historic churches, in chronological order. This location hosts Agia Sophia, a 10th century church with a small dome. During Ottoman times, this octagonal, tiled basilica was used as a hay barn, as attending church was forbidden for Christian subjects. In 1779, however, Hassan Pasha, handed back Agia Sophia church to the Christians and permitted services, for Christians living within the walls. The church was last renovated in 1825, for its current layout.
Just as picturesque, Panagitsa, a small chapel wedged at the foothills of Acronauplia, was built in 1500, when, during Venetian rule, Nafplio expanded beyond the walls. This church was first officially referenced in 1571 when its impression appeared on a copperplate with the title “Santa Maria di Grotte”, or Virgin Mary of the Caves. Much later on, during the Ottoman period, the region’s underground school, teaching the Greek language and Christian doctrine, was hosted at this church.
Behind Nafplio’s Syntagma Square, the 15th century Church of the Virgin Mary, which, despite its name, is dedicated to Nafplio’s patron saint, Anastasios, is the city’s most impressive church. This triple-aisled basilica’s simple exterior does not feature a dome, but, even so, its interior is superb. The stunning altar, wood-carved with gold layers, was created in 1877. Observe its intricate details and then head up to the women’s section of the church for a panoramic, elevated view of its interior.
Finally, Agios Spyridonas church – where, as mentioned above, Kapodistrias, modern Greece’s first governor, was assassinated – is situated at a location where a church built by the Venetians once stood but was eventually completely destroyed. The current church, its octagonal dome a distinctive feature from above, offers a sense of peace and tranquility. The interior is painted light blue, contrasting the marble altar. A glass case on the wall, next to the entrance, covers a mark left by one of the bullets that had been intended for the governor.
Buy special products and handicraft at stylish stores
Nafplio’s old town is filled with shopping opportunities for products of exceptional quality. Shops are run by people who lovingly create or stock various beautiful items. At Armiriki, top-quality cotton is used to make special t-shirts as well as canvas bags of all sizes. They feature slogans and artist prints, all inspired by Greek culture. All products made here are limited and numbered. The shop also hosts a small exhibition space covering the textile history of the region. At Agnythes, proprietor Mrs. Gonidou also uses top-quality cotton and pure silk to create wonderful shawls and scarves in wonderful colours. Watching her work on the loom is a joy. The Folklore Museum’s shop, stylish and cosy, offers a range of tasteful accessories, original decorative items inspired by the museum collection, as well as a careful selection of books, ideal for gifts and souvenirs. The Komboloi (worry bead) Museum shop sells top-quality worry beads and also offers repair services. The Naias soap shop, operating a small production facility for handmade soap at the back, will definitely attract your attention with its pleasant aromas. Step inside and shop for yourself and loved ones. The sweet shop Glykos Peirasmos, also with a production facility at the back, has catered to the cravings of locals and visitors over the past twenty or so years. Products sold here include amygdalota (almond cookies), truffles made very creatively, as well as handmade chocolates. Also visit Anapliotiko Bakaliko, a grocery store stocked with carefully selected delicatessen products made by Greek producers. Its owner, Mr. Giorgos Rozis, stocks cheese varieties produced by his family alongside handmade pastas, delicious charcuterie, superb halva, marmalades and other delicacies from all over Greece.
Visit interesting museums
Nafplio’s well organised museums, showcasing the town’s rich history, pleasantly surprise. Begin with the imposing Archaeological Museum at the western flank of Syntagma Square for insight into civilisations that flourished in the Argolida region from the early prehistoric period to late antiquity. Tools made of stone and bone, vases, impressive female figurines, storage amphorae, gold jewellery as well as items of worship, all exhibited over two floors at the museum’s impressive 18th century Venetian building, take visitors back to the region’s Mycenaean cities. Well preserved armour from the 15th century BC, discovered at the Dendra area, is a standout exhibit. The War Museum showcases an exceptional collection, including items associated with Argolida’s contribution to the Greek War of Independence, declared in 1821; the Macedonian Struggle, a series of conflicts, primarily between Greek and Bulgarian subjects in the Ottoman-ruled Macedonia region between 1904 and 1908; the Balkan Wars of 1912 and 1913; as well as the two World Wars and Greece’s liberation. Unique exhibits, including a rich collection of photographs, bring these historic events to life. The atmosphere is far lighter at Nafplio’s Folklore Museum, hosting a superb collection of costumes from the Peloponnese and various parts of Greece, as well as other traditional items divided into five thematic entities. Another aspect of Greek tradition, and an important part of religious practices in many countries, is covered at the Komboloi (worry bead) Museum, the world’s only such museum. A collection of rare string beads collected during travels to various parts of the world by the museum’s founders, the Evangelinos family, is on show here. They include Buddhist and Hindu string beads used for prayer, Catholic rosaries, as well as Greek komboloi pieces made with amber, coral, ivory and semiprecious stones. A komboloi that belonged to mid-20th century Greek prime minister Konstantinos Tsaldaris is one of the special pieces on show.
Culinary stops
Nafplio’s old town is filled with tempting culinary stops for all times of day. Kalimera, on the Terzaki pedestrian street, is a great choice for breakfast, which is all it serves, fortunately until midday. The spot sells snacks, perfect to have while exploring the town, such as pies, homemade bread, honey and marmalades, including a superb apple and carrot variety, omelettes, a range of rusks, cheeses, charcuterie, plus coffee and juices. Antica Gelateria di Roma offers refreshment with authentic gelato or sorbet in a wide range of superb Italian flavours, handmade by proprietor Mr. Marcello. They include dark chocolate with grappa, zuppa inglese, cassata siciliana and delicious hazelnut. Good ice cream as well as puddings are available at the Retro dairy shop. Try the muhallebi, an aromatic Anatolian pudding made with fresh milk, corn flour and rice flour. During the evening hours, make sure to visit Mediterraneo, an exceptional spot for wine-tasting amid a stylish setting, accompanied by quality cheese and charcuterie platters, or delicious pizza. For well-made, imaginative cocktails, head to 3Sixty, a stylish café-bar, housed at a superbly renovated neoclassical building, also hosting the venture’s synonymous restaurant and boutique hotel.
Bourtzi to Acronauplia
A stroll along Nafplio’s coastline, from the centre of the old town and around the Acronauplia rock, is a favourite route taken by most visitors. For a change, you may want to board one of the boats for a ride around the much-photographed 15th century Venetian water castle of Bourtzi, as well as to the rock hosting remnants of Nafplio’s ancient acropolis. Besides offering close-up views of the water castle, from all sides, these boat rides also offer a panoramic view of Nafplio and the perfectly preserved 18th century Palamidi, the town’s other castle, at the top of Nafplio.
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