Each spring and summer, Gliki “comes to life” together with the lovely natural landscape that surrounds it, welcoming visitors from Greece and the Balkans that come either to walk on the blooming mountain trails, or to do various water sports down Acheron river – that, according to mythology was the river leading to the Underworld.
Gliki is a village in the flatlands of Thesprotia, near the borders with Preveza, with a population of 453 people (according to the 2011 census). Its location is truly ideal, since on the east side it has the Paramithia mountains, and on the west side one of the sources of Acheron river. Thus, the beautiful mountainous nature, the clear waters and the age-old plane trees create a magnificent landscape.
Humans have been in the area for many centuries, since in the location of the village there was a settlement in the Hellenistic period, which continued to thrive even during the Byzantine times. However, it has not been yet determined whether that settlement was Evria, Omfalio or Kihiros that, according to Strabo, had a “sweet port”. It has not been determined, either, whether Gliki is the continuation of that village or whether it was founded during the Ottoman rule of Epirus.
The only thing that is certain is that Gliki has been around since the 19th century and that the people of Gliki had close relationships with the people of Souli, since that is where the “Treaty of Gliki” was signed, just after the beginning of the Greek War of Independence broke out (May 1821), marking a period of truce with the Turco-Albanian beys that were under Ali Pasha. In fact, thanks to this treaty, the Souliotes were allowed to return to their town, since they had been driven out in the previous months.
Where to stay
Even though it is not a destination that has been adequately “discovered”, the proximity of Gliki to the source of Acheron has made it relatively known, and thus there has been tourist development and many hospitality units were created.
If you’re looking to stay right next to the Acheron source (around 2 km away from the village), then hotel “Piges”, with its stone-built rooms and the wooden beams, surrounded by age-old plane trees, is the place for you. While even closer to Gliki, just 30 m from the riverbanks, you’ll find hotel “Acheron Springs – Markou Ilias”.
There are also great choices within the village. For example, “Hotel Eirini” that also has a pool on a sunny porch and a gym and they also offer steams, while right where the main road of Gliki starts, you’ll find the small “Kleopatra” hotel.
Options for coffee and drinks
Even though many of the visitors of Gliki go to the cafés and bars of the hotels they’re staying in, the village offers a variety of places for coffee or a drink later in the evening.
On the way towards Acheron, next to the river, you’ll find “Paradise” that is a popular option and is known for its espresso, as well as for its food. In the village, near the main square, you’ll find “Da Luz” with many regulars. Near the main street, next to the river, you’ll find café-bar “Acherontas” that also serves food and has some rooms to let. In the same area, you’ll find “Exo” that is ideal for coffee, dessert, or a chilled beer under the plane trees when the weather is hot.
Where to eat
As we said above, many of the café-bars in Gliki also serve food. However, you’ll find some establishments that exclusively serve food.
For example, “Panorama” tavern is a family-run business located next to Acheron (in the village) that is known for its fresh grilled trout. “Isabella” is also a great choice, serving Italian cuisine and delicious pizza they prepare themselves.
4 things worth doing if you’re in Gliki
There is no doubt that most visitors come to Gliki to admire the source of Acheron river and enjoy activities they can do on the river. However, upon arrival you’ll discover a beautiful village of Thesprotia, that has more sights worth seeing. The nearest town is Igoumenitsa, 40 km away, but also Preveza, 60 km away.
See the sources of Acheron
When we speak of the source of Acheron in Gliki (since there are other sources in other places) we mean a narrow point with rocks, about 2 km from the village. In the winter, the water comes rushing strong, but in the spring and the summer the river is entirely accessible. So much so, that it has evolved in a tourist destination, suitable even for families, that each August receives many visitors from the Balkans.
The landscape is impressive: vegetation is thick, the river charming, and the area is covered in age-old plane trees. Also, if you are a skilled swimmer and love swimming in cold mountainous waters, you can swim in the Acheron. Aside from swimming, you’ll find facilities for rafting, kayak or horseback riding in the riverside forest. No special skills are necessary, since in the summer going down the river is easy.
Go hiking on the area’s trails
Fans of hiking will be pleased to know that Gliki is connected with two wonderful trails that allow you to enjoy the beauty of the mountainous nature that surrounds the village.
An easy trail, that is suitable even for beginners, starts at the main road on the Gliki bridge, passes by the source of Acheron and leads to the location known as Skala Tzavelenas. It is a very old graded trail, carved into the rock. In fact, it is the same trail that Souliotes used during the Ottoman rule – it is said that no one could cross it while riding an animal, until Moscho Tzavela managed to do it, and the trail was named after her. It will take around 2 hours to reach Samoniva (the first of the Souli villages) where you will be able to admire the amazing view of the Acheron gorge. From Samoniva, you can return to Gliki on the same trail, or by car from Souli.
When you reach Skala Tzavelenas, you can follow another short trail. It takes just half an hour and is particularly easy and will get you to Dala bridge, through a holly oak and mock privet forest. To get to Samoniva, you need to return back to Skala Tzavelenas.
The second trail starts at the Information Pavilion in Gliki, and again reaches Skala Tzavelenas, and then goes down the mountain slope, reaching the banks of Acheron. There you’ll need to cross the shallow waters to get across, where you’ll find the Drakos (dragon) or Stihio (haunt) cave. From there, you need to walk for another 10 minutes by the river and you’ll reach the Information Pavilion in Gliki, having crossed a beautiful fern and plane tree forest.
Visit the Byzantine ruins
There are ruins of a Byzantine (10th -12th century) church in the centre of Gliki, that has not been identified yet. It’s a three aisled Basilica with a wooden roof that has clearly been built on a structure of the early Christian era (4th -6th century) which also remains unidentified. Research has shown that many restorations and additions took place there (especially during the 17th -18th centuries), until the church was abandoned for unknown reasons. In more recent times, a small church dedicated to Holy Mary was built where the old chancel used to be.
The presence of this church and its long history has made many believe that Gliki is ancient Evria, and that the church is that of Agios Donatos. There’s also a legend that claims that Saint Donatos killed a giant snake in the source of Acheron around 350 AD. The snake made the water poisonous and so the saint blessed it, making it potable and sweet – and that’s how the village got its name (Gliki means sweet).
However, as of now, no excavations have confirmed that the remains belong to Agios Donatos, nor that Gliki is indeed ancient Evria. It remains likely, of course, but proof needs to be found to support this claim.
Visit the village’s unique folklore museum
This unique museum was created thanks to Dimitris Tsironis’ passion, right next door from his bakery, where you can get great pies and other baked goods.
It’s open during shop opening hours, entrance is free, and it will give you the chance to see various everyday objects of the past, as well as a loom and many old coins and banknotes.
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