The northernmost island of the Dodecanese, is a barren place with low, sparse vegetation, apart from a few tamarisk trees that offer their shade from the blazing sun, yet it also has an unforgettably singular quality.
Although the island is very close to popular Samos, a charming sense of seclusion befalls its visitors immediately upon arrival at its port. In Agathonisi, time and human contact take on a new meaning. Travellers blend with locals in cafes and tavernas and follow slower rhythms that initially feel outlandish to anyone coming from the city.
Agathonisi has two settlements, Megalo Chorio (large village) which extends to the port of Agios Georgios, is the largest and oldest. The latter was built in a geographically strategic location to protect it from pirate raids. Over the years, the village has grown and spread to the port of Agios Georgios, which has a wide and large south-facing pier, sheltering the boats from the northern winds.
The second settlement, Mikro Chorio (small village), is built opposite the Megalo and only a few inhabitants still live there. Visiting Agathonisi is easy, via a regular ferry boat to and from Leros, Patmos, Lipsi and Samos, there is also a modern heliport.
Things to do
Tholi: Domed buildings that, according to archaeologists, date back to Byzantine times, around the 11th century, and are thought to have been used as storage spaces. They’re located next to the chapel of Agios Nikolaos and above Vathi Pigadi beach and are protected by barbed wire, but you can admire them from a short distance. Although they have not been maintained, the roof remains intact.
Kastraki: This is an ancient harbour from Hellenistic times with fortifications, military facilities for docking warships, a sanctuary and a large apiary. As new findings from the site are constantly being brought to light, the construction of a small museum is in the works.
Agios Panteleimonas: The main attraction of Mikro Chorio is located at the top of a hill, about 100 meters above the village. You can reach the chapel by following the short path from the village square, and can admire a lovely view of the island from above.
Where to eat
O Giorgos: A scenic, family-run taverna on the water’s edge that serves home-cooked food. The owners make their own cheese and have their own goats. Try the excellent calamari and a “mastoriko” cheese. Open-hearted and welcoming hospitality. (Agathonisi, at the port, 2247029101)
Atsidas: A humble little taverna with panoramic views across the harbour. It serves stews, the meat of the hour and fish of the day. Try handmade little myzithra pies and goat with macaroni and their homemade cheese. Friendly service. (Agathonisi, Megalo Chorio, 2247 029100)
