The festive period is an opportunity to escape to a snowy winter resort. More people are choosing to go to Palaios Agios Athanasios in Macedonia. To such a degree that has been given the nickname “Austria of Northern Greece”. Even though it’s one of the most famous ski resorts in Greece, it’s somewhat misunderstood. There are many who think that the only reason to travel here is for the great skiing at Kaimaktsalan. But the village of Palaios Agios Athanasios has many more things that will keep you entertain ensuring you won’t go wanting during your visit in the holidays.
Located in Pella, very close to the borders with North Macedonia, at 123 kilometres from Thessaloniki and 28 kilometres from Edessa, it has a long history since it was founded in the 16th century. It sits at an altitude of 1200 metres on the mountain of Voras, the third highest in Greece. Its tallest peak is Kaimaktsalan, that means “Earth Soft as Cream”.
During the 1980s, its residents moved to lower parts where they founded the town of Neos Agios Athanasios. Until the 1990s, the old village had been almost entirely abandoned, but it was destined to be revived, as it was declared a traditional settlement in 1992. Shortly after that the ski centre of Kaimaktsalan opened in 1995 and was essential in its transformation into a tourist hub, with the old building being lovingly restored and renovated.
Where to stay
If you’re looking for a more “homey” experience within Agios Athanasios, an up-and-coming choice of recent years is Rouga Mountain Boutique Suites & Spa, just 70 metres from the village’s main square. If you’re lucky you’ll get one of the 15 suites. You can also look to rent one of the independent residences that the guesthouse Nemesis has to offer, close to the main road. The Tarsouna Mansion made of stone and wood, and also the Chalet Sapin hotel with the unique lobby and the view of the mountain are both in the centre of the village.
If you’re looking for somewhere closer to the Kaimaktsalan Ski Centre, the go-to place is the stone-built Kaimak Inn Spa & Resort. Another first-class choice is Miramonte Chalet Hotel Spa with an indoor heated pool, also boasting a gym, a sauna and a hammam.
Where to eat
Ask any regular and they’ll tell you that you can’t go to Agios Athanasios without stopping at “Katafigio”. The taverna on the edge of the village, and you’ll dine in a big stone hall warmed by a large fireplace. Recommended is the Dutch oven pork with plums and the traditional hearty’fasolada bean soup. If you visit during the Christmas holidays, you’ll probably have the chance to taste dishes centred around game.
If you’re a fan of game, also try Kaliva, located on the main road, where most of the food is made up of local ingredients and traditional handmade pasta dishes. Petro taverna serves popular homemade pies with wild greens and a rich wild boar stew. Maria is Pppular for its classic meze dishes and traditional flavours, and the place where on a cold winter’s night you can relish a streaming bowl of homemade trachanas (traditional kind of pasta made with flour and milk or yogurt).
Hot Drinks and Cocktails
Hionodromos is the classic spot for drinks, day and night. A welcoming indoor space with a roaring fireplace, here you can enjoy coffee or a sumptuous cup of hot chocolate served in a number of interesting ways. As the day turns to night the hot drinks are replaced by colourful cocktails or warming, high-quality brandy or malt whiskey.
Cafe & Beer Pub Patriko is the perfect place for evening outings (it is open in the mornings too) that will impress you with its extensive wine and beer lists. Hovoli is also great for a coffee, a tsipouro (Greek grappa) and meze, or, for the faint hearted, a satisfying cup of mountain tea.
5 Tips for a Christmastime Visit to Agios Athanasios
Walk, walk, walk!
Delight in a stroll around the village up and down its mazey stone-paved alleyways. The restored houses with tiled roofs are typical examples of the local architecture of Macedonia, renowned for the chiseled stone and woodwork. In the little shops you’ll come across you can buy top quality local products. You’ll find bottles of the local tsipouro as well as the semi-hard ewe or goat milk batso cheese and the “tsouskes” peppers.
You should also visit the church of Analipsi at the edge of the village. It has a three-aisled basilica with a wooden roof and a narthex, it was built in the 17th century. The icons there are excellent examples of the Byzantine iconographic style.
Experience Local Christmas Traditions
The ‘Christmas Fires‘ fires tradition takes place in the main square on December 23rd and participants in the festivities shout “Kolinta Babo” before they start celebrating. It’s an age-old tradition that perhaps is a reference to the Massacre of the Innocents by Herod. With the passing of time, inevitably, the original symbolism become more vague, and has now become a symbolic warning to the community to guard against all evil.
The fires are put out on the morning of Christmas Eve, at daybreak, symbolising the birth of Jesus. That’s when people gather once more and sing the ‘Kolinta‘ local Christmas carols. These often starts with the phrase “Kolinta, kolinta dos’ mou babo kloura”.
If you stay for New Year’s, then you’re likely to hear the “sourva” on New Year’s Eve. These are the traditional carols sung to celebrate the coming of the New Year. New Year’s Eve is celebrated in the main square with a wonderful firework display at midnight.
See the View from the Church of Agios Athanasios
The church that gave the village its current name is on the homonymous hill and offers a magnificent view of Lake Vegoritida and the villages on its banks.
Before you leave, make sure you visit the chapel of Agios Georgios. There you’ll see five trees intertwined in an unusual way, that look uncannily like a human body.
Kaimaktsalan: Not Just For Skiing
With state-of-the-art facilities, Kaimaktsalan is considered as one of the best mid-sized ski destinations outside the “classic” zone of France, Switzerland, and Austria. Starting at an altitude of 2050 metres, where the ticket offices, the refuge and the ski schools are located, go to the station of Kremasi, on the highest skilift in Greece which is 2480 metres above sea level.
The ski centre has pistes for beginners, if you want to try out skiing for the first time or brush up on your skiing talents. If snow sports aren’t your thing, why not enjoy a coffee or a drink at the chalet looking out of the large windows and the thrill seekers hurtling down the slopes? Meanwhile, experienced skiers will be happy to find pistes that suit their skills, and there’s also an airboard trail. The snow season in Kaimaktsalan is pretty long; the season starts in November and ends as late as the beginning of May.
Go up high, on Vora, at the chapel of Profitis Ilias
Another thing to do when visiting the ski centre is to hike even up to Vora. At an altitude of 2524 metres you’ll have reached the third-highest summit in Greece. However, you should only attempt this with a guide in winter. At the top you’ll reach the chapel of Profitis Ilias one of the most famous attractions in the area. In front of the chapel is a monument dedicated to Serbian and Bulgarian soldiers who died on the mountaintop during the First World War.
