Portaria is at an altitude of about 600 m on the western slope of Pelion and is just 12 km from Volos. A village with only 552 permanent residents, it has grown over the past few years to become a prime tourist destination and it is an ideal spot for a winter trip during the Christmas and New Year holidays.
Portaria’s history starts in the Middle Ages and is closely linked to the immigration of Slavic speaking populations to the wider area of Pelion in the 12th century. It was first established with the name Drianouvena, and later on it passed into the hands of the local Byzantine monasteries, around the end of the 13th century. One of the monasteries was the Panagia of Portarea (Virgin Mary of Portarea) and it seems that it played a pivotal role in giving the village the name Portaria (a corruption of the word Portarea), which already seems to have been used during the time of Ottoman rule.
In the 18th century, the village experienced great financial growth as it became known for its silks and it was also the location of one of the largest weekly markets in Thessaly. With the liberation of Thessaly (1881) it was incorporated to the Greek state.
Where to stay
The tourist development of Portaria has resulted in the opening of many lodgings that offer accommodation of the highest standards. A great and affordable choice is the family hotel Filoxenia on the main square – if the weather permits it, you can enjoy your breakfast, with homemade marmalades and jams, underneath the plane trees. Hotel Belina, with 10 rooms, 5 of which have a fireplace, and a private parking lot – a valuable service in Portaria at Christmas with the crowds – is also on the main square.
Naoumidis Mansion, is a popular selection among families and couples, also offers parking facilities. Another great choice in the centre of Portaria is the small Kritsa hotel, if you manage to book one of its few rooms, while Valeni Boutique Hotel, at the entrance of the village may be more expensive but it offers an amazing view and spa services.
Where to eat
There are many options for food in Portaria, but if you’re there in the holidays, it’s best to book in advance. Gefsokratoras, serving simple modern Mediterranean inspired dishes, is on an uphill cobbled alley and is famous for its fireplace and homemade bread.
At Peliou Geyseis you are welcomed with a complimentary shot of tsipouro (traditional pomace raki) and they use ingredients they grow themselves – try the aubergine baked in an earthernware dish. Kritsa hotel also has a restaurant, and its rooster cooked in red wine sauce, as well as the rabbit stew with mashed potatoes come highly recommended, while at the end of your meal they will offer you baked apple, with the compliments of the house in accordance with local traditions. For something quieter, with a lovely view of Volos you can visit Kamelia where you have to try the traditional Pelion spetzofai (a dish prepared with sausage and peppers in tomato sauce), as well as the restaurant’s special: baked goat and beef in a ceramic dish with potatoes and smoked cheese. You can also have spetzofai in Katichori, the neighbouring village, at Ortansies (ask for the one with the village sausage), and they also make gioulbasi (stew with beef, pork, lamb and vegetables).
Where to drink your coffee and drink
For a coffee by the fireplace with a beautiful panoramic view and glorious desserts, go to Mirtillo All Day Coffee Bar, while Meli Coffee & More, right next to the Centaurs’ Path, offers coffee, brunch and desserts, and is heated by a fireplace and woodstoves. Lagini Rock Café opens in the morning for a coffee or mountain tea made with herbs they pick on Pelion and it also operates as a rock bar for a drink in the evening.
5 things to do in Portaria during the Christmas holidays
Portaria is well located for holiday excursions, as Volos is a stone’s throw away, while many other beautiful sights on Pelion are also not far. However, even if you stay within the borders of the village you will have a great time.
Celebrate Christmas and New Year’s Eve with the locals
On Christmas and New Year’s Eve, Portaria’s decorated main square becomes the main festive destination, with events curated by the local cultural club – you’ll distinguish its members by the traditional costumes they usually wear while singing Christmas carols. Festive music, traditional treats and abundant wine all guarantee that you’ll get into the Christmas spirit.
Visit the village’s Historical & Folklore Museum
It is housed in the two-storey Zoulia mansion, built in 1864, which is a sight worth seeing in its own right, being a great example of the Egyptiot architecture that was preferred by the residents of Pelion that acquired their wealth by doing business in Alexandria during the second half of the 19th century.
The museum’s exhibits include photographs and artefacts from the activities of the people of Portaria in Egypt, the village register from 1881, objects that were rescued from the luxurious hotel Mega Theoxenia that thrived at the beginning of the 20th century, photographs of local weddings between 1885 and 1950 (the Pelion Wedding is a very special tradition), as well as costumes and clothes, lace embroidery and rare books.
Walk on the Centaurs’ Path
It’s a short but famous trail that follows the watercourse of one of the many creeks around Portaria. You can hike during winter provided that you dress appropriately for the cold, and the route starts at Adamenas square and finishes at the Mana springs – about a 40 min uphill walk to get there, and another 25 min downhill to return.
The name comes from the famous Centaurs of Greek mythology that were half human-half horses and were thought to live here and in similar areas all over Thessaly. The landscape remains impressive in winter, while the path is well-marked throughout.
Ski excursion to the Agriolefkes ski centre
After the snowfall in Pelion in recent days of areas higher than 900-950 m, the season has started for the Agriolefkes ski centre which has announced that the draglines and the lifts are serviced and ready. This is a nice excursion if you are based in Portaria, as even if you have no interest in skiing, you will enjoy being out in the natural environment and appreciate the views from altitudes of up to 1500 m.
If you do plan to go skiing, the centre has four main slopes for downhill skiing with one reserved for beginners. The Agriolefkes Chalet offers food and entertainment options, while at the top of the mountain there is an observatory. The village of Chania, at an altitude of 1200 m, is also nearby where you can walk in a beech tree forest or visit the little shops to buy local products.
Plan a trip to Makrinitsa
It is the closest village to Portaria and it is a popular sight, called by many Pelion’s balcony due to its amazing view of the Pagasetic gulf. There is a Byzantine museum in the village – the only one in the wider area – while the famous Theofilos coffeeshop houses one of Theofilos Xadjimichael’s frescoes. The well-known Greek film “The Teacher with the Golden Hair” (1969) with Aliki Vougiouklaki and Dimitris Papamichail was filmed in Makrinitsa.
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