A small smudge on the map, a barren, mountainous landscape in the middle of the Aegean. That’s all Donoussa was a few decades ago; a remote destination where the ships barely stopped, a small island without a port, without roads, without any hotels.
In the distant 1972, the photographer and cinematographer Giorgos Kolozis arrived there on his own, with only a backpack. The trip took 32 hours. He set a makeshift tent on Kedros beach and spent his summer there. In the morning, he went to the north part of the island and took photos of the locals while they worked on the land. In the evenings, he lay on the golden sand in the starlight. When he returned to the island in the 1990s, he thought he’d made a mistake and gotten off the boat on the wrong island. Everything was different, there were lights on at the small bay, there were people on Stavros beach, there was activity, movement, music. His impressions have been recorded by his son, Giannis, in a very unique way in his documentary about Donoussa “Yiorgos of Kedros”, a film anyone who loves the island should watch.
Since then, increasingly more people discover Donoussa each year. Witch-Donoussa as they call her, since its biggest fans claim that the largest of the Small Cyclades has something magical about it, a strong energy that pulls you and keeps you forever close. Despite the tourist development, and despite the fact that the trip now only takes 8 hours from Piraeus, Donoussa still preserves its virgin beauty, its wild charm. The island is tiny, and you don’t need a car to see it in its entirety. In fact, you can walk across it in just 5 hours, so long as you’re in the mood for and physically up to it.
Discovering the island’s trails
And this is truly the best choice if you want to discover its true face, like only those who keep returning to the island know it. There are 5 trails on the mountainous part of the island, which used to be the only transportation passages on the island before the construction of the main road. Now they are very well marked, and so, you won’t have any trouble walking around, while the trails pass by all four villages of the island, linking Donoussa’s beaches. The beaches are so beautiful, calm and relaxing that they seem to have landed on the Cyclades from another planet. Wear comfortable shoes, sunscreen and a hat, since the sun is brutal and there isn’t much shade and start walking at Stavros with Kalotaritissa as your final destination. It’s the longest distance on the island, about 3.5 km on the mountainous trail, a route that will take about an hour to complete. At the end of the road, the small village with the few houses and the dreamy sea will help you feel in your core the reasons people always return to this island.
Where to swim
Stavros
Near the port, the beach of Stavros is a peaceful strip of soft white sand with bright blue waters. It’s a stunning part of Donoussa, a stone’s throw from Hora, ideal for families with children and extremely convenient, since just a few metres away you’ll find a mini market for necessities. Very close to the beach of Stavros, the emblematic Donoussa coffee house (kafenio) ‘To Kima’ is just opposite the mooring spot in the harbour. It’s the first thing you’ll see when you get off the ship, a true landmark, open since 1948.
Kedros
Probably the best-known beach in Donoussa, it’s considered one of the best in Greece. The wide sandy beach, the small bay protected from the winds, the crystal-clear waters, have become a refuge for the island’s visitors throughout the years, who come here seeking a different life, away from the modern world. For many years, Kedros beach has been one of the few beaches in Greece that permitted camping, something that is no longer the case, as deputy mayor of Donoussa, Dimitris Prasinos, informs Travel.gr, “camping is not allowed on the beaches of Kedros and Livadi”.
The remains of a German ship that sank at that spot in the World War Two can still be seen on the beach. So, if you like exploring the seabed, bring your mask and snorkel, so you can see the shipwreck up close. Beach bar ‘Kedros’ is located on the beach, serving delicious dishes next to the water, as well as coffee and snacks made using ingredients from the owners’ vegetable garden. This year, the beach bar has expanded and has been renovated, as they expect more travellers. In fact, as Mr Prasinos told us, “the island is booked at 100% capacity from July 25th until the end of August”.
Vathi Limenari
Near the ruins of an ancient, fortified village of the Geometrical period, a quiet beach remains one of the most romantic and isolated places on Donoussa. Access to Vathi Limenari is not easy, and you’ll need to walk about 20 min on a trail that starts off the main road. You can also reach the beach via a small trail that starts at Kedros beach, or by boat from Stavros.
Livadi
Isolated and relatively inaccessible, but totally stunning, Livadi beach will take your breath away with its incredible beauty. The only road of Donoussa does not go there, so in case you’re travelling by car, you’ll have to leave it quite a bit away and follow the small trail that goes through the village Mersini. You’ll have to walk around 20-25 min, until you reach the best beach on the island, isolated, blue-green, heavenly. If you don’t want to walk, you can go to Stavros and get on a boat that takes you either to Livadi or Kedros. However, the view from the top at this particular route is truly unforgettable. Since there’s no café or canteen on the beach, you should make sure to bring your own provisions.
A path links Livadi to the small beach Fikio, for extra calm and quiet. Sand, crystal-clear waters, and various small caves you can explore if you’re travelling by boat. The cave of Fokospilia, where the Monachus Monachus seals take shelter to avoid humans, is hidden in the blue waters. It is said that the cave used to be the lair of pirates, a legend that makes the cave even more charming. In the north-west part of the island, you’ll see another wonderful cave, with stalactites, mysteriously named Spilia tou Tihou (Wall’s cave).
Kalotaritissa
About 10km away from the port, the island’s only road stops. At the small village of Kalotaritissa, you’ll see a few houses and an amazing beach. Golden sand, glistening waters, while the beach of Tripiti is also nearby. It’s worth a visit if you don’t mind walking for 10m. Like in almost every beach in Donoussa, there’s no restaurant or café at Kalotaritissa, so bring your own provisions.
Where to eat
If you go swimming to Kalotaritissa and want to have great food nearby, one is the destination for you: the historic Donoussa tavern ‘O Mitsos’ that is picturesque, warm and welcoming, with a beautiful sea view, and serves the best beef patties in the Cyclades, a dish that’s reason enough to fall in love with the island. A tray with fries, beef patties, fresh salad and wine is the perfect closing of a day on the beach. Their tomato sauce lamb stew is also great, as is the traditional local dish ‘patatato’.
‘I kori tou Mihali’
Right above Livadi, at the mountainous village Mersini, the tavern ‘I kori tou Mihali’ has probably the best view on the island. From the front tables, when the atmosphere is clear, you can even see Amorgos in the middle of the Aegean, and the sunsets are simply amazing. Try the delicious beef with aubergine, as well as some of the other Constantinopolitan dishes on the short menu.
‘Avli’
A white restaurant, at the port, with a lovely garden and a friendly atmosphere. ‘Avli’ in Stavros serves Greek food using top quality Greek products, like cheeses from Naxos, Sifnos and Patmos, fava from Schinoussa, sundried tomatoes from Santorini, potatoes from Naxos, and olive oil from Crete. You must try their fresh salads, and the very tasty seafood pasta. We also recommend the potato salad and the mussel pasta.
‘Υucca’
Very close to the port, near the historic coffee house ‘To Kima’ you’ll find ‘ Yucca’, with a panoramic view of the beach of Stavros. Grab a table and enjoy the lovely breakfast that includes pancakes with fruit or chocolate, avocado toast, omelettes, etc while looking at the sea. For lunch, they serve pasta dishes, as well as juicy burgers.
‘Tzi-Tzi’
Going back to Mersini village for an exquisite, homemade lemon goat stew straight from ‘Tzi-Tzi’ taverns kitchen. Lovely Cycladic décor and Kostas Varnalis’ line “To gaze at you, sea, and always want more” on a plaque at the ‘Tzi-Tzi’ tavern, overlooking the endless blue. Try the rooster in red wine sauce, as well as the shrimp risotto for seafood lovers.
Read also:
Aidipsos: Strolls underneath the palm trees, sea-therapy and amazing spa experiences
