The island of Patmos is a place unlike any other, and particularly during Easter. Here, the Monastery of Saint John the Theologian has had a significant influence on the island’s culture and character, much like the Evangelistria on Tinos – but perhaps even more so. By honouring centuries-old Easter customs, Patmos is the ideal place to visit at this traditionally rich time of year.

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Perched atop a hill in the heart of Patmos’ Chora, the Monastery is an impressive sight to behold. As a fortress monastery, it is encircled by imposing stone walls that lend it an air of grandeur. It is not only the most important but also the most striking attraction on the island, especially during Easter, when it holds a very special place of honour. The Monastery was built in the 11th century by Hosios Christodoulos, who fled from Mount Latros due to persecution and found refuge on Patmos, devoting himself to religious life.

Saint John the Evangelist lived on Patmos for a significant period of time and is said to have converted many of the island’s residents to Christianity throughout his years there. It was also here that he wrote the Book of Revelation. Τhe Monastery, the Cave of the Apocalypse, and the Chora are all designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Patmos’ tourism development has been mild, which has helped preserve its unique character and contributes to the deeply spiritual ambience of its Easter celebrations.

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Monastery of Saint John the Theologian/ Photo: Nikos Kokkas
In Agios Nikolaos/ Photo: Nikos Kokkas

Easter on Patmos is no ordinary affair – it’s the perect place to be if you want to observe the truly religious rites of the holiday, rather than just cracking red eggs around the table. To truly appreciate the experience here, it’s best to arrive early. Holy Week is filled with rituals and traditions that have deep roots in time. Make sure you’re there on Palm Sunday, when the service concludes with the distribution of cross- and fish-shaped wafers. It’s just the beginning of a week full of meaningful events that offer a glimpse into the island’s profound spiritual culture.

Throughout Holy Week, services are held at the Monastery around 8:30 am and 9 pm. However, the most special day is Maundy Thursday, when at 11 am, the Niptir ceremony takes place on the town hall square in Chora. A grand procession begins at the Monastery of Saint John and ends at the town hall square, where the abbot of the Monastery symbolically washes the feet of the monks, in imitation of Christ’s act. In this reenactment, the abbot represents Christ and the monks his disciples, at the Last Supper. After the ceremony, the procession moves towards the prayer site, reenacting Christ’s journey to the Garden of Gethsemane, where Judas betrayed him to the Romans. This custom dates back to the 4th century and was mainly performed in monasteries. During the Byzantine era, emperors would portray Christ and poor citizens would play the disciples. Make sure to attend the morning prayer service, which begins at seven o’clock. At the end of the service, the priest blesses you by making the sign of the cross on your face and hands with holy oil. If not everyone from your group is present, ask for some cotton with holy oil to bless them as well.

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Chora Patmos/ Photo: Nikos Kokkas
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On Good Friday, 10 Epitaphs are paraded on the island. The most central ones are in Chora: those of Panagia ton Koimomenon (Dormition of the Virgin) and Ypapanti, which meet at the square of Agia Levias, and that of the Cave of the Apocalypse, and in Skala, those of Agios Ioannis Prodromos (St. John the Baptist) and Agios Nikolaos, which also meet in the central square. The already powerful atmosphere intensifies when women emerge from their homes to toss rose petals at the epitaph and the devout, filling the air with the flower’s heavenly fragrance. On Holy Saturday, the most mystical Resurrection ceremony of the island takes place at the Monastery of Saint John the Theologian and at the Monastery of Zoodochos Pigi. However, the atmosphere in the other churches of the island is also singular.

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Chora Patmos/ Photo: Nikos Kokkas
Photo: Nikos Kokkas

Although we often overlook the Service of Agape (Love) that takes place on the afternoon of Easter Sunday, it is worth attending, as the Gospel is read in seven different languages including English, French, Russian, Italian and Arabic. On Easter Sunday (or sometimes on the Monday after Easter), the Municipality of Patmos usually organizes a big celebration for visitors on the square of Skala, but nothing official was yet announced at the time this article was written. The customs and celebrations of Easter are completed on Tuesday with the parishes carrying the holy icons to the homes of the faithful to offer God’s blessing, while icons and relics of the Monastery are carried for worship on the square of Agia Levias in Chora.

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Chora/ Photo: Nikos Kokkas
Monastery of Saint John the Theologian/ Photo: Nikos Kokkas

And because Easter is not only a major religious occasion but also a gastronomic event, make sure to try the “dasoalo,” a beverage made from bread, almonds, rosewater or mastic, and sugar sprinkled with nutmeg. It’s considered to have several health benefits and is mainly consumed on Good Friday to provide energy during the fasting period. Also, don’t miss out on Patmos’ cheese pies and the traditional stuffed goat, roasted in the oven with liver and rice.

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