We often characterise Corfu as the “cosmopolitan countess”, or “lady of the Ionian Islands”, referring to its grace, multicultural heritage, and the air of a globally renowned destination it exudes. Justly so, Corfu, with its unique character, spectacular natural beauty, diverse traditions, distinct customs, and incredibly charming old town, never fails to offer an experience that rewards the senses.
The continuous contrasts of the old town captivate visitors: on one side, there are historic buildings of monumental architecture, and on the other, wonderful open green spaces. On one hand, an enchanting view of the Ionian Sea invites one’s gaze to lose itself in the vast blue, and on the other, the picturesque alleys beckon one to wander endlessly through their labyrinth. With elegant squares on one end and closely huddled pastel buildings on the other, a stroll through Corfu’s town is never long enough.
One of the most atmospheric neighbourhoods, an authentic slice of the city and the stories it narrates, a peculiar tapestry of narrow alleys, multi-storey old houses, veiled flower-filled courtyards, simple tavernas, and the ruins of half-collapsed buildings, lies below and beyond the New Fortress. It is the so-called “Ovriaki“, the neighbourhood where the Jewish Community of Corfu once lived and thrived and from which it was eventually expelled. Exploring this area offers not only a pleasant walk but also a genuine journey of knowledge into the past and history of the island.
An area reflecting a turbulent history
The first written reference to the presence of Jews in Corfu dates to the 12th century, while from the next century onwards, many Jews lived on the island, on the hill of Kambielo, which was called “Ovriovouni” as a Jewish neighbourhood. Like in other Greek and European cities, Jews excelled in trade, so it is not surprising that most of them in Corfu were merchants. Their wealth and economic prosperity ensured their protection by the decrees of the Venetian authorities from anti-Semitic tendencies and sometimes the hostility of the local population, while also offering privileges such as the opportunity to practice law or medicine.
However, for the Venetians to settle on the airy hill of Kambielo, a decree of 1525 designated the relocation of the Jewish community to the Spilia area, between the three parallel streets of Velissariou, Paleologou, and Agias Sofias. Even today, on a simple walk along these and the surrounding narrow, sunless streets, we can understand why the neighbourhood received this name. Sunlight often did not reach entire sections of the densely built neighbourhood, which, lacking the openings of Kambielo and being forced to crowd into multi-storey buildings, faced unsanitary living conditions, with the lack of clean air leading to high mortality rates from tuberculosis.
Key moments in the history of the community in the same century were the years 1537, when the first Synagogue “Poulieza” was destroyed, and 1571 when despite Venice’s decision to expel all Jews from its territories, the Jews of Corfu were exempted. As a result, in the 17th century, about 500 families lived in the area, while in the 18th century, there were 1,171 Jews.
A turning point occurred during the violent incidents of 1891, known as the Jewish riots or “gezera”. Prompted by the murder of an eight-year-old Jewish girl, the “Blood Libel” – a medieval slander that unfortunately still survived – was revived, and the island’s Jews were accused of killing the girl themselves, who was allegedly Christian, as a human sacrifice. As Christian Easter, a period often marked by anti-Semitic events, approached, as did the elections, which reminded the problems of emancipation and the lack of political rights of Jews, tensions escalated.
An enraged mob invaded the Jewish neighbourhood, houses were burned, the Rabbi’s residence was stoned, and the cemetery was desecrated. The police cordoned off the neighbourhood, but the situation became so catastrophic that the presence of the British fleet off the coast of Corfu was required to send troops from mainland Greece a month later to help restore order. The events cost the island’s Jews between 17 and 22 lives, and with the migration of many families to follow the events, the community, one of originally 6,000 members, numbered just 2,000 by 1941.
In September 1943, the Germans, after first bombing the city and destroying historic buildings, including the “Veccia” Synagogue, took control of the island from the Italians. The following June, the Nazi forces gathered all the families in the Army Square, leading them to the Old Fortress. Desperate and helpless, Jews of all ages handed over any valuable items they had and the keys to their homes, which began to be looted that same day – not only by German soldiers. Barely 200 women managed to escape and hide in the villages, changing their names, while about 2,000 people were gradually loaded onto barges, ships, and then freight wagons, ultimately ending up in the gas chambers and crematoria of the Auschwitz-Birkenau camp.
Most of the fewer than 200 survivors returned to Corfu only for a short period, finding their homes ravaged or occupied by strangers. Today, the Jewish Community of Corfu numbers only around 60 members.
A visit to the Synagogue
This atmospheric neighbourhood, with its narrow alleys, dead ends, tall buildings with often worn walls bearing the charming discolouration of time, and rows of laundry ropes crisscrossing above you, leads you to the epicentre of the Jewish community, which is none other than the New Synagogue. Apart from the first one in 1537, the second known synagogue called “Mintras” was completely burned down in 1926, followed by the destruction of “Veccia” by German bombings. The new Synagogue or “Nuova” was built when the “Greca” in Kambielo was abandoned and is the corner building in a pale yellow colour that you will encounter at the corner of Velissariou Street.
Built on an older building, it is located next to the house where Swiss writer Albert Cohen was born in 1895. He migrated with his family to Marseille in 1900, and despite the social isolation he experienced due to anti-Semitism, he was awarded for his work by the French Academy. Although he only returned to Corfu once, in 1908 for his Bar Mitzvah, a commemorative plaque on the facade of the Synagogue honours his personality and work.
After admiring the architecture of Nuova with its strong Venetian Baroque influences, enter the interior – if it is not open, ask the shops in the area to call the person in charge, who will gladly open it for you – to find that both the layout and the decoration follow the same style. A double semi-circular staircase will bring you to the first floor with the arched windows and the large marble plaque, which draws attention to the blue walls and commemorates the 2,000 members that the local community lost in Auschwitz. On the ground floor where the offices of the Jewish community are housed, you can see interesting photographs of the daily life of the residents of the area from past decades.
Following picturesque dead ends and cobblestone alleys
The tour has much more to reveal about the history of the area and the events that shaped and formed it. The Orthodox churches with their characteristic bell towers, which even have laundry ropes tied around them, reveal that Christians also lived in the neighbourhood, and as you walk from block to block, you’ll realize that the concept of the square is different here: the openings are small, the cramped buildings make one’s gaze rise high.
Nevertheless, the streets of Spilia remain lively and bustling, with their own distinct character, beyond the cosmopolitan aura of the rest of the old town. The walk proves equally interesting during the day, with small shops often hiding beautiful handicrafts, as well as in the evening, when the abundant tavernas and meze restaurants spread their tables on the alleys and the scents from their kitchens flood the area. A favourite hangout of the locals, the restaurant-meze shop “Pergola,” very close to the Synagogue, is housed in a Venetian building owned by the Jewish Community.
The vaulted interior preserves the old arches; after all, the traditional bakery of the neighbourhood operated here for 101 years, as the black and white photographs near the entrance inform us. Now that the weather is warming up, the outdoor tables have become sought-after, as do the large portions of tasty Corfiot specialities – try the “tsigareli” dish with cooked, spicy greens if you are looking for authentic flavours. Homemade pies, such as the rich leek pie, and delicious appetisers like the aubergine “bourekakia” and cougette balls, are the best start to accompany your ouzo or tsipouro, continuing with the very popular seafood fritters.
The meat dishes, whether grilled like the hearty stuffed burger or cooked like the stifado and kleftiko, guarantee a scrumptious meal. Enjoy the apple compote in grenadine with cinnamon and star anise as a soothing treat, and before leaving this picturesque street, stop by the adjacent bakery, a continuation of the old one, for fluffy mustokouloura (grape must cookies) and fragrant koulourakia that will make your wanderings in this distinctive area with its evident traces of a turbulent history all the more enjoyable.
Make sure to conclude your walk by heading to the New Fortress Square and the particularly moving Holocaust Memorial. The work of sculptor Georgios Karachalios presents the intense figures of a Jewish family, stripped of dignity and possessions, being uprooted from their home towards the grimmest fate. A marble plaque dedicates it to the memory of the 2,000 members of the Jewish community on this beautiful island, one with an incredibly multifaceted history.
Read also:
Grand Architecture, Historical Churches in Corfu’s Old Town
