Until the beginning of the 20th century, Faliro was more of a seaside village than a part of the city. But that changed.

18

Little by little, wealthy Athenians grew fond of the area and sought it out as their place of residence – even today many detached houses built before World War II can be seen here. Indicative of the area’s elegance and class is that one of the first and great successes of the silent Greek cinema, the film “Villar in the women’s baths of Faliro” was shot here. Gradually, most of the middle-class Greeks of Constantinople who were forced to leave their city after 1955 settled here. Later – much later- came the tram and the cycle lane that connects Faliro with the Gazi area in the city centre.

Faliro is a neighbourhood steeped in history, offering a wide range of cultural events and recreational activities. Most of all, it is a neighbourhood that must be experienced.

Morning strolls and coffee

Faliro is first of all a neighbourhood where you can go on endless leisurely walks and enjoy the open skyline. This became more evident during the lockdown, when suddenly swarms of pedestrians and cyclists began to throng the Faliro Delta, the Water Plaza (Plateia Nerou), the esplanade and the cycle lane, starting from Gazi.

Start your day early at the Flocafé Espresso Room located in the Faliro Delta (Agia Skepi tram station). Here you can choose from three different coffee blends and a wide selection of fresh juices, snacks and refreshments.

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Flocafé Espresso Room
Flocafé Espresso Room

The wider area is full of sports facilities. If you’re a parent and a resident of the area, you’ve probably been here before. After you finish your coffee, you can head to the Water Plaza, one of the most beautiful spots of the Athenian Riviera, a large open space where many concerts and music festivals take place every summer. And since a walk in Faliro means a walk by the sea, we suggest you head to Flisvos Marina.

Flisvos Marina

Located only 6 km from the centre of Athens, Flisvos Marina is every Athenian’s number one go-to destination to get close to the sea. Families enjoying the large playground, couples strolling by the sea, luxury-lovers admiring the yachts moored at the berths – there are more than 300-, yacht crews, cyclists, children on roller skates; lots of people of all ages flock the marina when the weather is good, either on weekdays or weekends – not a good idea if you have agoraphobia.

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Photo: Palaio Faliro Municipality
Flisvos Cultural Centre/ Photo: Palaio Faliro Municipality

As long as the weather is still nice and warm, as it is these days, autumn is probably the best season for nice strolls in the area. It goes without saying that if you have children your main attraction will be the large playground. However, a walk here can also be educational.

Greek Cruiser Georgios Averof

Berthed for decades in Trocantero, the battlecruiser Averof is now a floating museum -a costly but totally successful investment. Visitors can tour the legendary ship, which, under the command of Admiral Pavlos Kountouriotis, played the most important role in Greece’s victory in the First Balkan War. You can visit the wardroom, the officers’ lounge and the sailors’ cabins. You will definitely be impressed by the heavy armoured weapons on deck. The scene is complemented by relics and objects such as the uniforms of officers and sailors and photographic material. Apart from the Averof, there are also a few other ships anchored at Flisvos and in the Naval Tradition Park.

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Averof/ Photo: Shutterstock
Averof’s interior/ Photo: Shutterstock
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Athenian trireme replica
Naval Tradition Park/ Photo: Shutterstock

Basically, one can learn the entire Greek maritime history. Next to the battlecruiser, you’ll see one of the last genuine sailing ships of the Aegean Sea, the so-called “Evangelistria”, built in Syros in 1939. Further on, the destroyer “Velos”, one of the ships of the Greek Fleet, whose captains and officers had decided to react forcefully to overthrow the military junta regime imposed on the country in 1967. You will also see a replica of the ancient Athenian trireme, an old cable steamer – in essence a floating telecommunications museum – and one more sailing ship.

The playgrounds

Faliro is one of the best areas to live in Athens, especially if you have young children. You can tell by the number of families you meet strolling around the area. There are lots of playgrounds, parks, green spaces, among which the playground and the park of Flisvos are the most popular. However, we recommend the playground in Agia Skepi, which is fenced, has proper lighting, sitting areas, toilets, a guard, trees, an open space for ball games and bike paths. Yet, a certain vigilance on the parents’ part is required as the playground has three entrances. Featuring swings and courts that can accommodate wheelchairs, this is an inclusive playground where children with physical disabilities can also play.

Lunch break at Goody’s Burger House

In a short distance, Goody’s Burger House located in the Faliro Delta combines a personal customer service philosophy with the warm and casual atmosphere of an authentic burger joint. Here you can feast on juice burgers with three different types of beef patties, fresh salads, hearty club sandwiches, as well as numerous other delicious goodies such as Meat Free & Veggie Burgers, Pasta dishes, Extreme Clubs, Chicken Wraps and many many more.

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The best way to end a visit to the playground.

A museum full of toys

A museum housed in a building that perfectly matches its theme. At the junction of Tritonos and Poseidonos streets lies Villa Kouloura, a truly unique building with gothic touches and two towers that will make you think you’ve transported to Disneyland, Paris. It was probably built at the end of the 19th century and was bequeathed to the Benaki Museum.

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Benaki Toy Museum/ Photo: Palaio Faliro Municipality
Benaki Toy Museum/ Photo: Palaio Faliro Municipality

Housed in this fairy-like building, the Benaki Toy Museum opened to the public in 2017,hosting the toy collection of Maria Argyriadis. One of the largest collections in Europe, it includes old wooden toys, beautiful dolls hundreds of years old, lead soldiers and thousands of other exhibits. Needless to say that you don’t have to be a parent to visit. Besides, while we were in the museum, almost all visitors were adults. And they seemed to be having the time of their lives.

The outlet stores

The main commercial street of Faliro is Zisimopoulou Street, where several shops are located. However, we suggest you head to Eleftheriou Venizelou Street, close to the area of Nea Smyrni, where you’ll find numerous outlet stores. Be patient and you are sure to find what you are looking for at a low price, especially if it’s sports equipment.

Dinner at La Pasteria

The ideal end to such a busy day is of course a very good meal. Located in the Faliro Delta, La pasteria restaurant offers Italian comfort food, as well as gourmet dishes. It’s the ideal destination for large groups of friends, couples and, of course, families. Children will surely enjoy La Pasteria’s mouth-watering pizzas, made with handmade 72 hour dough. Those who prefer to stick to the classics can enjoy a luscious pasta Carbonara, La Pasteria’s signature dish.

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Those willing to experiment should try the Pasta alla Parmigianna, a dish that combines great taste with “spectacle”. Eventually, everyone will top off their meal with a dessert from the menu, most probably Tiramisu, the most popular Italian dessert among Greeks for many years now.