At the south part of Pindos, 32km from Trikala, the gorgeous Elati, a less cosmopolitan version of Arachova, due to its proximity to the very popular Pertouli Ski Resort, is a favourite winter destination.
It’s when the warm guesthouses with their lit fireplaces fill with people, when you’ll probably have to wait a bit longer to be seated at restaurants, and you’ll see hundreds of visitors around the village taking pictures of the traditional mansions and the idyllic setting, covered in snow. In autumn, when nature is at its most romantic, most atmospheric phase, you can experience a more relaxed side of this historic village, that was founded some years after the Fall of Constantinople, and, up until 1955, was named Tirna. In 1943, during the German Occupation, the village was burned down by the Germans, in retaliation for the actions of the rebels in the area. Up until 1980, Elati was relatively unknown among tourists, it was mostly developed after 1990. Nowadays, village life is much faster and vibrant, and the main road is filled with small cafés and cute bars with wooden rustic décor that stay open till late serving nice cocktail and playing great music.
One thing that remains the same in this charming village near Trikala is that tradition is kept alive as you can see everywhere: from the stone houses to the Elati farmer’s market that is definitely worth a visit. It takes place every Saturday and you can buy things that are hard to come across elsewhere.
What to do
The Gidari mansion
As you wander around the village’s cobbled streets, on the verdant slopes, you’ll come across the old Gidari mansion. It’s the oldest house in the village, dating back to 1845 and it’s a great specimen of local architecture, living proof of Elati’s past economic growth. The impressive battlements still survive till this day, as well as the heavy door with large bolt, resembling a monastery. During your stroll, you’ll come across many more imposing mansions, many shops selling local products, handmade objects and unique decorative artefacts, as well as the stone founts, an everlasting trademark of the mountainous Greek countryside.
The ruins of the ancient settlement
East of the village, on your way to the neighbouring Kalogiri, you’ll come across the ruins of an ancient settlement that researchers believe belong to ancient Potneo, a powerful city of antiquity that was located there already since the Homeric times.
The church of the Kimisi tis Theotokou (Dormition of the Mother of God)
In the centre of the village, the church of Kimisi tis Theotokou is a must, with the amazing wooden iconostasis created in 1822 by artisans from Epirus. The church was reconstructed in the mid-20 th century, preserving, however, many of its original beautiful features that make it stand out.
Hiking in Koziakas
During the winter, Elati is crowded with people heading to the Pertouli Ski Resort to go skiing down its slopes. However, in autumn, like in spring, Elati is an equally great destination due to its lovely nature. Walking on safe, well-kept, trails you can easily reach various refuges on Koziakas mountain and enjoy the amazing view. The forest around Elati is thick with many deciduous trees in the lower locations and firs as you go higher up. It’s a bear habitat, so you might come across traces of their presence. If you are experienced climbers, just 15min from the village, at the Kokkinos Vrahos location, there’s an organized climbing field that has seven routes, varying in difficulty – all of them secure with bolts and anchors.
Where to eat
Papanastasiou
Famous local tavern, known for its lovely meat dishes like local country sausage, slow-cooked lamb in the Dutch oven with macaroni, and, of course, wild boar. It has been open for over 60 years, welcoming guests in a hospitable environment with a wood-burning stove heating the space.
To Anogi
The tavern To Anogi, a traditional cookshop, honouring old mountain recipes, is just 5min outside the village, perched on a slope of Koziakas. Try their homemade spinach pie made with country filo dough, a variety of delicious casserole dishes, goat soup and juicy venison in tomato sauce served with chestnut puree.
Lagos
A traditional grill house that prepares everything over coals, making such delicious dishes you’ll want to eat there again and again. What is truly unforgettable at Lagos is their amazing kontosouvli (large skewer, usually pork) that is reason alone to visit Elati.
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