Two small villages on a small island, surrounded by the turquoise waters of the Aegean Sea. A few decades ago, Athenians started tentatively discovering Heraklia; they would take the boat to Naxos and then cross over on caiques, to this hidden paradise that not many knew about. A few rooms to let, a few taverns and a bar where everyone went.
Now, Heraklia, this tiny island at the westernmost edge of the Small Cyclades, small enough to cover it on foot, has become one of the most popular ‘alternative’ destinations in Greece. Its exotic, lacy coast, the glistening turquoise waters, the exciting trails on the north part of the island, from where you can see all of the Small Cyclades spread in front of you, but also the link to Homer’s Odyssey with the giant Polyphemus, add a unique charm to this ‘lonely’ piece of land.
Opposite Heraklia, the island Venetiko and the mythical Avelonisia that according to Homer are the rocks Polyphemus threw to Odysseus and his men to kill them. You can explore them on a rigid inflatable boat or on a caique that will take you on a tour of the island’s emerald beaches.
Walk around the deserted stone-built village of Agios Athanasios and have an incredible experience in the otherworldly cave of Agios Ioannis Prodromos, before going back to Livadi, the largest and most accessible beach on the island (something that is not a given, some beaches are quite a challenge to get to) for an afternoon swim and to enjoy the sun setting, painting everything in a red-orange shade.
The cave of Agios Ioannis Prodromos
Visitors are in for an unforgettable experience at the most impressive sight of Heraklia, the otherworldly cave of Agios Ioannis, which is said to be the largest cave in the Cyclades. Perhaps access to it is a challenge, but it’s worth trying to explore as much as possible, to discover the secrets of this amazing place, always with the help of a guide, since access is hard and the geography quite a riddle for those not familiar with the place.
Your exploration will start at a path that begins in Hora and leads to the cave, crossing Vourkarias bay. When you reach the cave, you’re going to have to drop to your knees in order to get in. Once you’re in, you’ll see a true vision, with brown stalactites hanging from the ceiling and a magical grey-blue colour on the walls around you. Opposite the entrance, there’s a really large cave where, according to mythology the giant Polyphemus, who Odysseus blinded on his way back to Ithaca, lived.
The people of Heraklia will tell you stories about how, once, a shepherd who lay under a bush to rest saw the face of Agios Ioannis Prodromos appear on his shirt. When he got back to the same spot with his fellow villagers, they saw the narrow entrance of the cave near that bush. Inside the cave, they discovered the icon of Agios Ioannis, who gave the cave its name.
Before you head to the cave, make sure you have flashlights (there’s no light in the cave) and provisions, and wear comfortable shoes. If you’re in Heraklia in the end of the summer, you should go to vespers on August 28th, on the celebration of Agios Ioannis Prodromos, which is a very mystical experience in the heart of the cave.
An unforgettable tour on the island’s trails
Upon arriving in Heraklia, it’s best to be prepared for walking. Like in the rest of the Small Cyclades, here, you don’t have to have a car. At the same time, the trails on the mountainous parts of the island are unique, an experience you must have if you want to feel the authentic spirit of this small island opposite Naxos.
Wear your most comfortable shoes and start your hike with the highest spot on the island as your final destination. There, you’ll admire the sea and see something truly unforgettable: the rest of the Small Cyclades, ‘floating’ one next to the other in the Aegean Sea.
From there, you can also do some birdwatching, as the island is home to various bird species including vultures, eagles and hawks that have found refuge on Heraklia’s rocks, near the low oregano and thyme bushes that fill the island’s air with their scent. There are more than 170 bird species, making Heraklia a true paradise for birdwatchers.
You’ll come across the picturesque chapel of Profitis Ilias on your way, while if you head to Livadi, you’ll also see Heraklia’s castle, that was built in the Hellenistic times, as well as ruins of the temples of Zeus and Tyche.
Where to go swimming
Livadi
Opposite the island Venetiko, there’s a large, soft, sandy beach, it’s the beautiful Livadi, one of the most ‘convenient’ beaches on the island due to its accessibility by car, just 2 km from Hora, and also due to its calm, shallow waters that are ideal for families with small children.
You can enjoy swimming and playing on the beach, while there’s also natural shade. Grab a spot under a tamarisk tree, swim in the clear waters and admire the view towards Schinoussa that you can see in the horizon when the atmosphere is clear.
Tourkopigado
If you like hiking, then you’ll love the route towards the small beach of Tourkopigado. Follow the path that starts from Hora, going through the island’s mountainous part, with a lovely view of the Aegean Sea. The beach is pebbled and has stunning turquoise waters.
Vorini Spilia
In the north part of Heraklia, near Agios Georgios, you’ll find a small quiet beach, Vorini Spilia, that has crystal-clear waters. Here, the winds may get strong, so despite being a sandy beach it’s not suitable for families.
Agios Georgios
Probably the most popular beach in Heraklia due to its very easy access, right next to the port. If you’d rather not travel far, you can spend your day in the shade of a tamarisk tree, with all of Hora’s amenities just a stone’s throw. The waters in Agios Georgios are green-blue and glisten in the hot Cycladic sun.
Karvounolakos
If you like isolation, then the small beach of Karvounolakos is the perfect place for you. It’s not accessible by land, but there are boats that leave from the port that bring you here. The colour of the sea resembles a pool, there are pebbles, and the landscape is a bit wild.
Alimia
Alimia is perfect for diving, as there’s a German seaplane wreck near the beach, which was shot down during the Second World War. And if you don’t want to dive, Arado, the seaplane, is visible even from the surface of the sea. The wide sandy beach in Alimia and the calm waters make it the ideal place for a relaxing day.
Amoudi
You can only reach Amoudi in Merichas by sea. It’s a very small, steep rocky beach covered in pebbles and rocks. Its waters are stunning, so a swim here is a must, to make the most of the Small Cyclades experience. It’s located in the south-eastern part of the island.
Where to eat
‘Araklia’
Chef Giannis Gavalas decided, three years ago, to leave Athens and Mykonos, and permanently move back to the Small Cyclades, and Heraklia in particularly, and open one of the best-known restaurants of this small island in his home.
He cooks with great care, using the best local ingredients to serve creative dishes based on tradition but with a modern twist. Try the calamari stuffed with spinach and rice, the fava, the string-bean and cherry tomato salad, and the delicious goat, while for dessert, the unique galaktompoureko will truly impress you.
‘Thymari’
On a large white veranda with modern décor, ‘Thymari’, just above Livadi, serves burgers, pizza, seafood pasta, grilled octopus and calamari, mussels saganaki, as well as some daily specials. Their hand-cut fries are great, as well as their beef steak. The location and the view are incredible.
‘Maistrali’
The small restaurant of hotel ‘Maistrali’ prepares delectable “homecooked” casserole dishes daily. It’s located in Agios Georgios, and it’s the perfect spot if you want to take a break from swimming on the nearby beach. They serve a wide variety of mezze and homemade meals in a very pleasant environment.
‘En Lefko’
Great breakfast overlooking the sea. Sit on the small veranda with the blue rails and enjoy your coffee and the amazing view. Order omelette with feta, fluffy pancakes with scrambled eggs, penne with Naxos graviera for lunch, fresh sandwiches made with local ingredients, and, in the evening, refreshing cocktails.
‘Sirma’
A simple, traditional restaurant near the port, serving large, filling portions. The décor is in white and blue shades and there’s an amazing veranda where you can have a cold beer while you wait for your appetizers. They serve well-made souvlaki and fresh fish, as well as great mezze and appetizers, like spicy feta spread, aubergine spread, fava and cheese saganaki.
Surfin Bird
Over the beautiful Livadi beach, a cheerful beach bar opens early in the morning serving coffee, at lunch they serve tasty food, like shrimp pasta, soutzoukakia meatballs with fries, snacks and salads, and at night they serve delicious cocktails.
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