Although it is located on the mainland of Argolida, Kranidi is culturally oriented towards Hydra, Spetses and the Saronic Gulf. And this has strongly influenced its traditional architecture, making visitors feel as if they are on one of those islands.
Kranidi is a town of 4,006 inhabitants (according to the 2011 census), located at the southeastern end of the regional unit of Argolida. It is built amphitheatrically on the hills of Agia Anna and Vardounia, at an altitude of 92 metres, with the highest points offering spectacular views of Porto Heli and the beaches of Ermionida. It is about 50 km away from Nafplio and 180 km from Athens.
The roots of the city go back to the Middle Ages, during the Byzantine Empire. Local tradition says that it was formed by the merger of 4 different settlements (Agios Ioannis, Milindra, Vilia & Bies), while the name Kranidi is believed to have come from the ancient Greek word “kranaos” (meaning rough), which was used to describe the area. Indeed, even today one can see that west and east of the modern boundaries the landscape is rocky, with low vegetation.
What is certain is that Kranidi existed as early as 1300, as the name is found in a Byzantine document of the time. Later it came under Ottoman rule, but it participated almost from the beginning in the Revolution of 1821, following the example of Spetses, with which it was closely affiliated. Because of its natural fortification, it was even the seat of the revolutionary government in 1824.
After the liberation of Greece, it flourished as a commercial centre, with the people of Kranidi boasting a considerable fleet until the beginning of the 20th century. But when technology advanced and steamships became prevalent, the locals were unable to keep up. Over time, the town experienced a significant population decline and acquired an agricultural and pastoral profile. In recent years, however, many residents have also turned to tourism as the area has become more popular with visitors.
Where to stay
Many people choose to visit Kranidi as a day trip from Nafplio or Porto Heli (just 6 km away), however the town has many accommodation options, such as rooms and villas, for those who wish to spend a few days there. Centrally located you will also find the three-star hotel Ermionida, which in summer also arranges day trips to Hydra, Spetses, Nafplio and Monemvasia.
In addition, on the outskirts of Kranidi (in Agios Panteleimon) there is one of the most luxurious hotels in Greece, the Amanzoe. It is currently closed, but according to announcements it will reopen for this season on April 1.
For coffee and/or drinks
In the centre of Kranidi there are some very nice cafes where you can also enjoy a drink during the evening hours. The pastry shop “Paradosiako” is a highly recommended stop: a family business offering a wide variety of drinks and soft drinks, as well as excellent pastries and delicious ice cream.
“Vintage Coffee & Drinks” has a retro character and serves good coffee and crepes. “Ep’ Avlis Cyprus Square” and “Na Soy Kano Kafedaki” are also popular spots. For the evening, we recommend the bars “Entechno”, “Skarabeos”, “Draft” and “Zordi”.
Where to eat
The grill house “Geusi” is the absolute destination for all meat lovers. It has been in operation since 1999 in Iroon square and is famous for its chicken on a spit and handmade burgers.
For amazing traditional Greek casserole dishes visit “Kallidromi” and the quaint little taverns “Kato Plateia” and “To Perivolaki Tou Torva”. If you are in the mood for pizza, visit “Amo la Pizza”.
4 things worth doing in Kranidi
Unlike the neighbouring resort of Porto Heli and the picturesque Ermionida with its seaside charm, Kranidi has not been explored as much as it deserves. However, visitors will find that it is a small town with a significant past and many attractions of its own – with the distinctive, island-like architecture of the traditional houses setting the tone.
Take a tour of Kato Kranidi
The most traditional houses are concentrated in the lower part of today’s town. Most of them date back to the period 1840-1890, when Kranidi became wealthy due to the shipping industry, which was at its peak at that time.
The so-called “Kapetaneika” were the houses of the shipowners, which were larger than the older buildings and were built according to the street plan, with fine materials (e.g. hewn stone). Frames can be seen around the windows, and they are also characterised by ornate balconies and neoclassical antefix.
The island charm of these houses is not accidental, as the occupation of their owners with maritime trade had further strengthened the already strong relations of the town with Hydra, Spetses and the islands of the Saronic Gulf, which particularly influenced the architectural preferences of the wealthy residents of Kranidi.
Visit the windmills
On a green hillside just outside Kranidi, three traditional windmills are still preserved, fully restored and operating as a tourist attraction, echoing a pre-industrial era.
The windmills are tower-shaped, made of whitewashed bricks and metal, conical roofs. Visitors can enter the interior, which is dominated by two huge carved millstones, once used for grinding wheat. In summer, the municipality lights them up and they host cultural events.
Pass by the Byzantine sights
Outside Kranidi, on the road to Ermioni, in the area of Pikrodafni, there is the small church of Agia Triada – one of the most importance Byzantine monuments in Argolida. It dates back to 1240, which makes it the oldest known cruciform church in Greece. The architectural structure preserves embedded ancient relics and features magnificent hagiographies.
In the centre of the town stands the metropolitan church of St. John the Baptist, built in 1852 by the Italian architect Jacobo Sebastino, on the site of an older church, which had been there since Byzantine times and until 1800 was owned by the Monochartzi family. The icon of John the Baptist is much older. It dates back to 1646 and is the work of the distinguished hagiographer Emmanuel Tzane.
Heading towards the hill of Agia Anna you will find the monastery of the same name, built in the 13th century. The location is pine-clad and boasts spectacular views of Ermionida and its beaches.
Visit the Folk Art Museum
It was founded in 2000 in a two-storey building donated by Maria Todori and operates under the auspices of the local government, under the care of the Kranidi Ladies Volunteer Group. It has gained a considerable reputation abroad, so that every summer it receives visits from professors and students of the famous Harvard University.
On the ground floor you will find a rich exhibition of everyday objects from the past (handmade bags, looms, cooking utensils, photographs, etc.), while on the first floor there are traditional costumes and old clothes. The museum is affiliated with the Kranidi Folklore Centre, which maintains a choir, which in September 2017 held a very special event in the town, presenting traditional Kranidi serenades.
Free admission for the public, but please note that the museum is not open on Sundays and Mondays.
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