The light falls differently in Kypseli. Here, in this northern pocket of Athens, modernist shadows stretch across weathered marble steps, and the echo of footsteps in century-old arcades tells stories of a neighborhood in perpetual evolution. Once the playground of Greece’s literati (and elite), these streets – lined with elegant Art Deco apartments and forgotten mansions – are writing their next chapter.
Through the prism of resident artist Irini Miga‘s world, Kypseli reveals itself as a place where history breathes through crumbling Bauhaus facades and creative revolution simmers in converted ground-floor apartments. The neighborhood doesn’t announce itself; it unfolds slowly, like a closely guarded Athenian secret.
That secret is increasingly hard to keep. A new generation of artists, drawn by both history and possibility, is breathing fresh life into the interwar architecture. In Kypseli’s hidden courtyards and sun-drenched studios, tradition isn’t preserved, it’s reinvented.
01
Kypseli Municipal Market for Community Action
Revived as a lively community and cultural space, the Kypseli Municipal market daily presents exhibitions, spaces, events and more that celebrate architecture, gastronomy, community projects, art, and artisanal products. It hosts pop-up shops and regular events, from farmers’ markets to art exhibitions and live performances, drawing diverse, lively crowds. The renovated building blends historical charm with modern aesthetics, becoming an emblematic gathering place where residents and visitors explore, dine, and connect. Its role in ‘reactivating’ interest in Kypseli as a place to visit for non-residents was integral.
02
Ντυλαν (Dylan) for Trendy Vibes and Bold Flavors
Ντυλαν offers contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with standout dishes like tender grilled octopus paired with fava and dill, and handmade pasta featuring local cheeses. Its minimalist decor with lush greenery creates an airy, calming atmosphere. Popular with artists and food enthusiasts, it’s a peaceful yet stylish setting that fosters creativity and relaxed socializing.
03
Eprepe for Playful Meze & People Watching
In a stylishly restored mid-century building, Eprepe combines contemporary cocktails, such as spicy margaritas, with sophisticated bites, like sea bass tartare and smoked eggplant dip. The chic interiors, marble finishes, and soft lighting cultivate an inviting cosmopolitan atmosphere, making it a prime spot for socializing and intimate gatherings.
04
Bateau Ivre for Tasty Bites and Deep Chats
Inspired by Rimbaud’s poetry, Bateau Ivre pairs a carefully selected wine list with gourmet plates like charcuterie, truffled cheeses, and fresh seafood ceviche. Vintage furniture, literary décor, and subtle lighting create a sophisticated yet cozy ambiance, favored by those seeking cultured conversation in an intimate setting.
05
Tastes of Damascus for Middle Eastern Delights
This place specializes in authentic vegetarian Syrian dishes, including crispy falafel, succulent shawarma, and flavorful baba ganoush. Its modest yet warmly inviting interior, decorated with Arabic artwork and subtle lighting, provides a friendly family atmosphere that perfectly captures Kypseli’s multicultural spirit. This eco-friendly restaurant also offers training and job opportunities to asylum-seekers and refugees.
06
Lisa’s for Great Pizza
Prepare to stand in line. Lisa is renowned for artisanal, ‘contemporary pizzas’ like the Four Cheese pizza cooked in Gozney ovens by pizzaiolo Stavros Tzamis, whose pizza artistry has led several top establishments to stand out before he landed at Lisa. Situated on lively Fokionos Negri, Lisa has a menu of 10 pizzas to be enjoyed in a space with vintage decor and rustic wood accents, which has a cozy, welcoming vibe beloved by locals and visitors alike.
07
Beetle Bar for Cocktails and Snacks
Beetle stands out with great sandwiches, pizzas and burgers complemented by expertly mixed cocktails. Its colorful decor, contemporary art, and lively atmosphere attract vibrant crowds seeking stylish yet casual dining and energetic evenings.
08
Rigani for the Juciest Souvlaki
Rigani takes souvlaki seriously—think succulent pork and chicken gyros sizzling just right, paired with crispy, cheesy fries that practically beg to be devoured street-side. This casual spot in Kypseli’s lively Fokionos Negri is simple, satisfying, and unpretentious. Expect generous servings without fuss, a local gem worth frequent revisits.
09
Yoso Art Lab for Beautiful Ceramics
This ceramics studio and store runs ceramics workshops and showcases contemporary pottery by local artists. The serene, minimalist studio, filled with natural light and decorated with subtle, natural textures, fosters creativity and tranquility, attracting a community passionate about artistic exploration.
10
Meteoritis for Books
O Meteoritis offers a thoughtfully curated selection of contemporary Greek literature, graphic novels, poetry, and international titles. Its cozy interiors, complete with vintage lamps and comfortable reading nooks, regularly host literary events and readings, enriching Kypseli’s vibrant cultural landscape
11
Literature House for Good Reads and Coffee
Both a bookstore and a café where between sips of coffee, guests browse carefully selected books or gather upstairs for intimate literary chats, thoughtful seminars, or playful children’s storytelling afternoons. A space buzzing quietly with ideas, it hosts book presentations and study sessions that feel like joining a good friend’s living room.
12
Stella for Summer Cinema Nights
Since the 1960s, this open-air cinema has enchanted visitors with screenings amidst lush greenery and glowing lanterns. This nostalgic setting, beloved by cinephiles, families, and couples alike, preserves the romantic and communal tradition of summer movie-going in Athens.
13
Flowers at Erga Fysis and More
Irini’s favorite florist is Erga Fysis (Fokionos Negri 21) because she says it is the friendliest family-run business and she has the family in her heart, especially Mr Stefanos, who plays the guitar in his store for the flowers to enjoy. Two other green escapes stand out. The first is the Vaggelatos Garden Center (Kypselis 18), with lush rows of indoor and outdoor plants from Instagram-famous favorites adored by millennials to timeless classics, complete with expert plant-care advice. The other is the Papigion Project (Agias Zonis 13), which showcases rescued cacti creatively arranged in handmade, eco-friendly pots, turning plant care into thoughtful artistry.
About Irini Miga
Irini Miga’s practice traverses sculpture, installation, notions of drawing, text and performativity. Her work explores the fluidity of time with the intention of challenging conventional hierarchies and dissolving boundaries. Miga studied art at London’s Central Saint Martins College, obtained a BFA from the Athens School of Fine Arts, and an MFA in Visual Arts from Columbia University, New York. Among many achievements, last summer she was one of three winners of the Mamidakis Foundation Art Prize, and her newest work, a 20 meter mural inspired by the flora of Athens, is soon to be unveiled at a prominent venue in Athens.
