Begin your road trip from Kalamata, the Messinian capital in southeast Peloponnese, which, in recent years, has undergone an impressive transformation along its coastline, while also benefitting from pedestrianisation projects and the introduction of many cultural events.
Take the exit towards Mani and Areopoli, leading to the start of the Messinian Riviera, the region’s seaside stretch, filled with beaches and impressive cafes and restaurants by the water. Make a first stop 16 kilometres beyond Kalamata at Kitries’ small port, ideal for swimming and a meal. The ensuing 38 kilometres are filled with bends in the road and run at a greater distance from the coastline, but Kardamyli, the next stop, fully compensates.
Kardamyli is essentially made up of two sections, palia (old) Kardamyli and nea (new) Kardamyli. The old section offers archaeological sites and picturesque alleys, while climbing bougainvillea plants offer delightful colour to the austere setting. The area also features Mani-style towers and Byzantine churches, taking you back to the times of pirates. Kardamyli’s new section is charming. Its tourism growth has developed in full harmony with the natural environment and the region’s history.
Beyond Kardamyli, the region features lovely beaches with blue waters, ideal for swimming. Stop at Kalamitsi, Foneas or Delfinia beach, all perfect for a dip. They are quite remote. For a more cosmopolitan experience, opt for Kalogria beach, whose beach bar plays carefully selected music and serves good coffee. Beyond this beach, the road runs at a distance from the coastline, all the way to Oitylo beach.
Shortly before leaving the Messinia region to enter Mani, the middle peninsula of the southern Peloponnese, you will encounter, at the village Thalames, a roadside meze eatery serving carefully cooked casserole dishes, made with local ingredients. The eatery is located under the shade of a big plane tree. The next stop is Limeni, Areopoli’s port. This seaside village is one of Mani’s most traditional-looking settlements. Its features include the tower house linked to the Mavromichalis family, members of which played key roles in modern Greece’s history, from the Greek War of Independence, declared in 1821, to the Balkan wars nearly a century later. The Mavromichalis family tower house has nowadays been transformed into a hotel. Many Mani tower houses may also be seen in Areopoli, a village with cobbled alleys and a large square featuring a statue of Petros Mavromichalis, also known as Petrobey, a Greek general, politician and regional leader during the first half of the 19th century.
Situated slightly below, the spectacular Diros Caves offer small-boat cruises to view stalactites. A section of this cave complex is dry and can be walked. (Due to ongoing maintenance work, only the latter onshore section is open to the public). Carry on south along the regional road, running through Mani’s barren and rugged landscape, all the way to Gerolimenas. Vatheia, a fortified settlement featuring an impressive collection of tower houses from the 18th and 19th centuries, is fully integrated into this wild landscape.
Carrying on further leads to Cape Tainaron, mainland Greece’s southernmost point. To reach this point, you will need to walk 2.2 kilometres along a smooth trail between stones, low shrubs and thyme and oregano plants. It is truly worth covering this distance on foot to experience the sea view and serenity offered by this location, as well as for a close-up view of the lighthouse, built by the French in 1882 and launched in 1887.
Kalamata to Cape Tainaron: 129 km, a 2 hour-and-50-minute drive.
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