Relatively close to the capital, this gorgeous landscape promises a superb mountain experience offering nature, tradition and gastronomy
Situated just under 150 kilometres from the busy, congested and often stressful capital, Trikala of Corinthia, in the Peloponnese, reached via a lovely seaside route, offers escape from urban hassles. The short distance to this destination also eases any travel-cost anxiety concerning fuel and road toll fees, totaling less than 100 euros, there and back.
The highway turn-off point leading to Trikala is clearly signposted, close to Xylokastro. From there, the Gulf of Corinth and ultra-modern Olympia Odos highway, running along the Peloponnese’s north, are swiftly left behind. A landscape transition towards a more rural setting is introduced by the winding, mildly uphill road heading deeper into the Peloponnese. Farm vehicles enter the picture along with shades of green and brown as well as the smell of pruned branches being incinerated. The arrival of autumn is clear. The singing of birds, rustling of plane trees and rural silence are all sensed with the car windows rolled down. Well-kept vineyards, the area’s dominant feature, covering expanses left and right of the road, signal the coming of autumn, their withered vine leaves and also highlighting one of the main occupations of the people of Trikala and lesser-known surrounding villages. These vineyards produce raisins and table grapes.
Kato Trikala
Stone houses, all formidable and imposing constructions, as well as a range of traditional and more modern houses maintaining the local architectural style, make up the setting at Kato Trikala, the lower section of the village. I immediately noticed the area’s abundance of guesthouses and a certain number of hotels as I looked for the guesthouse at which I had made a reservation.
Bookings are essential on weekends or during public holidays, when demand is high. The accommodation units, all charming, clean, well-kept and featuring design-magazine details, have imaginative names. Choosing where to stay can be difficult. All personal preferences are covered. The landlord at the place I had chosen greeted me for my long-weekend stay with a sincere smile and bright eyes. As I took a sip from my glass of tsipouro, the welcome drink, I observed many favourite features – small rugs laid over the stone floor; dark-coloured, imposing furniture; cushioned fabric sofas, and the flames and sparks of wood burning in the fireplace. The addition of a mild and pleasant scent of tomato-based casserole cooking escaping from the kitchen felt like confirmation of a fine accommodation choice made.
Greek villages invariably include certain favourite, almost stereotypical, images. Strolling around the small streets of Kato Trikala these elements all hit me at once, rekindling a host of memories. I saw pomegranate trees laden with fruit impatiently waiting to ripen, bright coloured apples weighing heavily on branches, sheds stacked with wood for heating, farming equipment sitting in yards and at vacant land areas under thick plastic sheet coating for weather protection, as well as tractors with signs of rust, suggesting extended lives as vital farming tools for their owners. The colours were intensified by the cloudy sky, while the aroma of moist soil became an essential part of my walk. Dogs could be heard barking, innocently, from various distances in the village, a necessary note in the overall rural symphony.
Halfway up the steps leading to the square with a gigantic plane tree, figs dropped on the stone surface required careful stepping. The fig tree’s offering here is popular among locals and visitors. The square was relatively quiet, with few cars parked by its side, making it more impressive on my Friday morning visit. The plane tree’s incredibly sized trunk triggers the imagination. How far could its roots stretch out under the elegant cobbled square? The tavernas had begun preparing their charcoal grills for the day ahead, the scent of this activity permeating the air. A more pleasant scent of well-grilled meat, ready to eat, would eventually take over an open and strong invitation for every passer-by. But it was still too early for this.
Groups of friends, locals and visitors, had gathered at the Alfavitario café’s yard space, covered by a mulberry tree, appreciating the spot’s tranquility, well-suited music, as well as the food. A meeting point for villagers all year round, this is where the news, issues and sports news are discussed, in civilised fashion. Coffee, tea and drinks are served, along with vegan dishes, offered as an alternative in an area where meat dishes dominate. A cosy spot, Alfavitario feels like an extension of a local living room. Its proprietors, Alexis and Panagiota, have gracefully taken the village café tradition a step further with a modern touch, plus their own hospitable energy. There’s just one danger here, their sweets. The range includes amazing profiterole.
Next day, a little after 7am, the morning sun shone directly onto the bedhead to produce a pink-orange colour shade in the room. The windows were foggy, dripping with morning dew from the temperature drop at night. Each breath of fresh morning air, clearing the lungs and filling me with energy for the day ahead, was followed by a small misty cloud as I exhaled. My guide for the day’s walk, a young lady named Maria Giannou, glowed with energy generated by her love of this land. Actively engaged with the area’s social matters and driven to identify issues needing improvement, she was the perfect guide. Passing by an area where renowned Corinthian raisins were left to dry, we continued for trails between Trikala’s neighbourhoods, three in total and partially chartered. Dense forestland is just metres away, and, slightly further on, a clearing hosts horses. Their curiosity prompted an unusual form of communication and companionship that only animals can offer. It is as if time stops and the only thing that matters is this sincere, different type of communication. Feeling attached, we left the scene with some difficulty and carried on along a circular route through the forest. Though very near, the village houses were not at all visible from within the forest. Minimal amounts of water flowed along the creek, a result of the long hot summer. We skipped over the running water with ease. This short walk ended at the gate entrance of Athanasia Politi, a local with a wide and welcoming smile.
Mesaia and Ano Trikala
Mesaia (Middle) Trikala is the liveliest and most frequented part of the wider Trikala area. An assortment of cafes, as well as restaurants, tavernas, shops selling traditional products, as well as roving merchants selling fruit, nuts and honey may be found here. The popularity of Mesaia Trikala on weekends and public holidays can even lead to parking space challenges. We carried on walking for Ano (Upper) Trikala, which did not take long to reach. It is included on the agenda by many visitors. Seeing trekkers with hiking staffs, special footwear and backpacks is a common sight here. The route tells the region’s history. Derelict houses, shops with wooden verandas hanging by the road, vegetated slopes, water sources and taps with drinking water, Agios Gerasimos church, as well as the Theofilia hotel – or whatever is left of it following glory days, primarily in the 50s, its guests back then including Egyptian King Faruk I – are all part of the setting. This hotel’s exterior remains in solid, fine condition but there is nothing left of the interior.
A ski resort, Ziria, situated relatively close to the village, just a few kilometres away, is ideal for beginners and hesitant skiers. Its slopes are very mild, making the spot more of a fun park for snow games than a ski centre. The view of Ziria from the top of the ski lift is superb. Fir trees dominate the region. They stand like strange sculptures, having acquired unusual shape under the weight of snow and force of strong winds.
A little before nighttime and my hunger level’s peak, I decided to take a downhill walk from Mesaia Trikala to the lower district, equipped with my knapsack. The night was sweet, its slight chill not strong enough to penetrate my light jacket. Though the route through the dense vegetation is signposted, I decided to avoid the risk of losing my way in the night, so I walked all the way along the asphalted road. It was an easy, gravity-assisted descent over a 2.5 km distance with a purple twilight view of the Gulf of Corinth ahead. An owl’s call made this nocturnal creature’s presence felt in the silence of the night as I enjoyed a truly special walk in deliberate solitude.
The food brought to the big, heavy wooden table at the Ano Trikala taverna, where I enjoyed a meal, was an exciting prospect. A group of six – five locals and I – shared food, wine, smiles, thoughts and concerns. Trikala of Corinthia is an easy-to-do destination combining just about everything – good accommodation, fantastic food, serenity, as well as some noise, nature, walking routes, soothing warmth and escape. The place is so close to Athens yet so different. Domestic tourism in the non-summer months offers so much choice for discovery and exploration.
