Nea Smyrni is an Athens district particularly adored by its locals, who rarely go elsewhere for entertainment, sports facilities, shopping or recreation. And justifiably so.
This suburb, located about 4km southwest of central Athens, covers all needs, so much so that the district, combining style with a laid-back nature, has also become an attraction for people based in other parts of the wider Athens area.
Square and surrounding area
The main square has been a focal point of Nea Smyrni for decades, making it one of Athens’ best-known spots. The square has always stood as an attraction for locals, but gained far wider appeal since it was pedestrianised in 2004.
An underground parking lot in Nea Smyrni was launched in 2009, but, even so, catching the tram – if convenient – into the area is advisable on weekends, when many Athenians flock to the suburb.
If you have children, the safe and open space at the square is ideal for play.
People of ages are to be seen on the streets of Nea Smyrni, from hipsters and many teenagers to elderly citizens, who can usually offer some insight into the area’s past and present. Everybody seems to know everybody here, as is made evident by the regular exchange of greetings between people sitting for coffee and passersby.
Adding to the positive vibe, stray cats and dogs appear to have been adopted, in one way or another, by some of the shop owners in the area.
The best way to enjoy all the local activity is by grabbing a take-away coffee from the local Everest coffee and snack store for a walk and look around the area. Or, even better, get yourself a fresh sandwich, either ready or DIY, salad, donut or any of the shop’s other delicious selections and head to the Nea Smyrni park.
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Walking at the park
The Nea Smyrni park, a short walking distance from the square, is a lush space spread over five hectares, offering ample space for jogging or walking. It also features one of the most impressive children’s playgrounds to be seen in Athens. Plays and concerts are often staged at the park during the summer months.
Food at La Pasteria
If you’ve worked up an appetite after a good day out here, you are at the right place. Nea Smyrni’s La Pasteria, close to the square, on Konstantinou Palaiologou St, offers a charming environment and very good food. Appetisers, fresh salads, pasta dishes, pizzas, meat and fish recipes are all on the menu.
The pasta dishes, of course, are the trademark offering of this well-known restaurant chain. La Pasteria’s menu range includes classic recipes, such as the spot’s special Carbonara, a favourite among locals for years, as well as more specialised selections derived from the depths of Italian culinary tradition, including Pasta alla Parmigiana, a delightfully presented dish. Whatever you try here is Italian food at its best.
Also, the Ravioli alla Fiorentina (ravioli filled with ricotta and spinach, milk cream sauce and truffle; the light Risotto Milanese; as well as the Italian Burger, including smoked mozzarella and potato gnocchi, offering distinctive quality, are just some of the many other dishes we recommend at La Pasteria.
Its menu also includes a wide range of desserts, the Tiramisu being a highlight, wines, as well as cocktails. Kids will love the La Pasteria pizzas, made with dough left to ferment for 72 hours. The spot also has a children’s menu offering a pasta dish and soft drink or juice for just 8 euros.
Match day
Following your meal at La Pasteria, you may want to head to the local football stadium, a Nea Smyrni landmark hosting the historic Panionios football club, for a game, if you happen to be in the area on match day. Nowadays playing lower-tier football, the team has seen better days. But this doesn’t matter. The match experience still makes for a great outing. Even if not a fan, you will enjoy the vibrant atmosphere in the area surrounding the stadium on match day.
Next to the football stadium, the Milon sports club facilities feature an indoor gym and outdoor swimming pool. It is popular amongst younger people who may be seen coming and going in their sports gear any day of the week.
Historic buildings
Nea Smyrni is one of the wider Athens area’s few suburbs with impressive and historic buildings. One of these, Estia Hall, an imposing 2,000 m2 property close to the square, hosts three museums – the Art Museum; Asia Minor Art Museum; and the Asia Minor Campaign Museum.
Nea Smyrni, it should be pointed out, was named after the former Greek city Smyrna on the Asian Minor coast. Many refugees arrived and settled in this part of Athens following the Asia Minor Catastrophe in 1922, which resulted from the Greco-Turkish War.
Another prominent building, the Iosifoglio Orphanage, on Syggrou Avenue, was built in the 1920s courtesy of a grant offered by Asia Minor Greek entrepreneur Haralambos Iosifoglou, to host Asia Minor Catastrophe orphans. The Agia Fotini church is another city landmark. Its belfry, 33 metres tall, is a faithful reconstruction of the bell tower at Smyrna’s Agia Fotini church, destroyed during the events of 1922. A small number of refugee homes, built prior to World War II, survive in the Ano (Upper) Nea Smyrni area.
Outlet stores
The Nea Smyrni-Faliro border area along Eleftheriou Velizelou St is an outlet store mecca, especially for sports gear. Devoting a few morning or afternoon hours here is recommended. You may need a little time to spot big bargains usually on offer.
Place for all hours
Besides the cafes, open until late, Nea Smyrni is nowadays also a good place for drinks at bars, the district’s many bar choices satisfying all preferences. And, of course, the best way to end the night in the area is with a sandwich at the Everest store on the square.
