It is one of the most beautiful mountainous routes in Greece, going through unique mountains, gorges, and slopes, following (in essence) the evolution of the country’s most beautiful mountain range, Pindos.
The route from Nafpaktos to Agrafa winds through authentic, raw, imposing places – most of them, in fact, remain unknown to the wider public. Here, one will encounter endless ridges, “alpine” landscapes and meadows, climb impressive cliffs, and plunge into deep gorges. In addition, you will be greeted by lush green forests, shady gorges, and rivers with crystal clear waters, all of which comprise a special ecological paradise in the heart of Greece. A landscape of authentic, untouched, and exceptional natural beauty.
In this region, time usually has its own rhythm, and even in summer, in the mountain villages you need a jacket from the afternoon hours onwards.
From Nafpaktos you climb up to mountainous Nafpaktia, passing through Elatou and Ano Hora, and you reach Platanos to continue to Domnista and Krikelo, ending up on the main road to Karpenisi. Turn left, here, passing through the town, and continue to Viniani and from there to Kerasohori and Krenti. That’s where a riverside road (paved with asphalt) starts, next to the river Agrafiotis, which is always on your left. There are a couple of bridges that go over it, until it finally ends in Agrafa.
Leaving Nafpaktos behind
Leaving Nafpaktos behind, a route of unique beauty begins, Elatou, a small settlement hidden in the fir trees, as the end destination. Shortly after you get to Ano Hora, which is built amphitheatrically on a slope of the Vardousia Mountains, overlooking the opposite peaks, at 1,000 metres above sea level. In February, they even organise a tsiigarithra – a type of cured meat– festival during which they also serve wine and tsipouro, while in October, there is a chestnut festival. Platanos, the largest village in the area, is also located nearby.
Approaching the dam of the river Evinos, you’ll come across Evinohoria villages, which will take your breath away with their stunning view of Lake Evinos – especially from Agios Dimitrios. Then, at 1,000 meters altitude, you’ll reach Arachova, another beautiful large village with a breath-taking view. We spent the night in Arachova, as it’s home to both rooms and little taverns with great grilled meats, as well as a classic, beautiful, very appealing mountain square.
After an enjoyable two days of rest and exploration in the surroundings, we continued on our way passing through Krikelo. It is one of the settlements in the highest altitudes Greece, built at 1,120 meters, with the Krikeliotis river and with view of the (almost permanently snow-covered) peak of Kaliakouda, at 2,100 meters. The European trail E4 also passes through here: a rare route through century-old plane trees and around springs with crystal clear water. Of course, we also made a stop at the central square of the village, surrounded by traditional stone houses, small cafés, and taverns serving local delicacies.
We got on the main road to Karpenisi, turned left and passed through the town, heading towards Fragista. After a while, we came across the fork towards Kerasohori, from which a fantastic view towards the artificial lake of Kremasta begins. We then turned left towards Krenti and from there we got on a road along Agrafiotis river, a route that can only be described as breath-taking.
Being either beside the river, surrounded by a dense plane tree forest that makes you want to stop and cool off, or climbing to tremendous heights, with the vertical cliff on the left, you feel as if you are in the middle of nowhere. But at the same time, you appreciate the spectacular landscape that really takes your breath away. Since the temperature allowed it, we stopped at the banks of Agrafiotis for a dip – after all, it’s not very deep.
Arriving in Agrafa
Then, at about the end of the road and after a small detour to the right, we reached Agrafa. Note that along this unique route the waters of the rivers Acheloos, Megdovas and Agrafiotis cross every now and then, while cold water gushes from springs. The landscape alternates between steep cliffs, shady gorges, and flat-topped mountain peaks, creating a relief of rare natural beauty.
This is where the roads to the mountain villages of the area start, which seem to be hidden in the green slopes of Agrafa, with the stone and wood of their traditional houses in perfect harmony with the environment.
It’s worth planning a walk to Kerasohori, Mavromata, Marathos – birthplace of the 1821 fighter, Katsantonis– to Tridendros, Trovato (at an altitude of 1,060 metres, at the foothills of Delidimios) or to the historic Vragiana, famous for the school opened in 1662 by Evgenios Giannoulis of Aetolia, a great Teacher of the Nation. But also, to Epiniana, a pastoral village at an altitude of 1,100 metres, or to the beautiful Monastiraki, on the southern slopes of Mount Fteri.
On a detour, you will also find a place on Agrafiotis called “Xyla Kokkali”, an organized camping site, with small buildings where you can stay. If you have the necessary supplies, of course. There’s a small dam on the river, which allows swimming.
Products of the land of Agrafa
Agrafa has been famous for its livestock farming, from which its main products come, such as its famous feta cheese, tsalafouti (soft white cheese), local butter and famous meats, as well as honey of excellent quality for a long time. You can also pick fragrant oregano, linden tea, tea and other herbs, or fish for trout in the river. Finally, depending on the season, you will find walnuts, chestnuts, grapes, cherries, plums, wild strawberries, and cranberries.
There are not many hiking trails in the area, but they are magnificent and well-marked. The B1 and B2 trails lead to the Agrafa refuge, where you will enjoy excellent accommodation, food, and warm hospitality. Also ask about Apati, which is on the road to Epiniana and is of great natural beauty: after a fork on a dirt road, there’s path that leads to waterfalls and a pond, in which you can dive in the summer and early autumn months.
For accommodation in Agrafa, check out “Kyra Niki”, which has a garden, a terrace, and a shared lounge. At the stone-built “Panorama’” in Epiniana there’s a restaurant and a snack bar, while for food in Agrafa we recommend “Neromylos” at the village’s entrance, with meat, pies from Agrafa and wild trout.
Read also:
A road trip to the semi-mountainous Agrafa – A different journey to a magical place
Sea or mountains? Nafpaktos combines both and is ideal for two-day getaways
An authentic mountainous destination of ravishing beauty in Greece
