The Patra Carnival is a quintessential expression of the Greek carnival experience, and as such, it requires appropriate planning to fully enjoy it. Revelry is synonymous with Apokries (Greek Carnival season), where all manners of behavior are excused and almost every indulgence is allowed. From Xanthi and Naousa to Patra or Plaka in Athens, the carnival festivities include Vlach weddings, masquerades, dances, and parties, encouraging everyone to dress up and let loose for a while, leaving all problems aside.
Pagan, Dionysian, and riotous, the weeks of Apokries are closely tied to a plethora of local customs across Greece. These customs express themselves through panegyrics, masked parades, dances, and even lascivious, satirical verses, reminding everyone that flirting and romance are also part of the revelry. Regardless of what you choose, the Patra Carnival is a quintessential expression of the Greek carnival experience.
This year’s impressive program kicked off with the Opening Ceremony on January 18, followed by daily events held in various locations throughout Patra. All the events culminate in the grand parade on March 2. After visiting the Patra Carnival three or four times, the conclusion is clear: you will have a great time if you plan well ahead. The gathering of both revelers and crowds can create such chaos that without prior preparation, you may get lost in the frenzy.
First of all, the program of this year’s Patras Carnival has been published and it is truly impressive. You can find it posted on www.carnivalpatras.gr.
01
Planning Ahead
A Place to Stay
Your first concern should be to book a hotel, as demand for the days of the Carnival proves to be huge. You have two choices: the first is a room in the center, where the entire carnival game is played. However, this option is difficult and more expensive, because you have everything at your feet, without the need to park and unpark. Parking also becomes very difficult on these days. The second option is to go outside Patras, in nearby mountains or seaside locations. Here, prices are cheaper, the environment is quieter, and you can combine your stay with some vacations if you wish.
Blending In
In Patras, you will now find everything regarding carnival accessories, but if you plan to dress up in something more specific, make sure you have taken everything you deem necessary. Remember: you may move to the rhythm of everyday life all year long, but during the Carnival, hidden behind a pagan mask, you have the opportunity to express yourself as you wish.
The Patra Carnival, like all carnivals, is a street celebration often accompanied by the classic drink of the youth, a bottle of mavrodafni. Beyond that, you will also have a wonderful and joyful time going in and out of shops, whether you choose to go out for food, drinks, or cocktails. Above all, Carnival means costumes and disguises, liveliness and Dionysian atmosphere, teasing and secret flirting, satire, carefree fun, walks and revelry.
Where’s the Party?
You should explore, but be aware that the main game takes place on the streets of central Patra, mainly on Riga Feraiou, Gerokostopoulou, and Heroon Polytechniou, as well as in the narrow alleys of the coastal area. However, you must organize yourself and learn which bars are organizing parties, as the revelry lasts 24 hours. Also, look for the after-parties, concerts, and of course, the midday parties with DJs, souvlaki, and tsipouro. Most of them are impromptu and spread by word of mouth, so you will have to wander around the city with your ears open.
Let the dancing begin! One more thing you must ensure is securing an invitation to either the White or the Red Dance. These events, when properly organized, prove to be wonderful. In the past, there were also the Bourboulia and the Dance of the Committee, usually held at the facilities of Achaia Klaus. In recent years, the latter has stopped, while the Bourboulia are no longer as prominent as they once were.
NB. Don’t Miss Bourboulia!
The Bourboulia is a truly unique event, closely associated with the Patras Carnival, and its equivalent cannot be found elsewhere in Greece. It is considered one of the oldest Carnival events in the city, with its exact start date calculated shortly after the completion of the construction of the “Apollon” Municipal Theater by Ernesto Chiller – around 1872. For this reason, it was held there in the past, as I can personally certify, having experienced it in that particular building.
As for the Bourboulia, it describes dances in which women maintain their anonymity under a black domino and a black mask, while men wear formal attire. Women choose their partners, constantly hiding behind their masks. In earlier years, this anonymity had revealed (or hidden) many “indiscretions” among participants. Beyond that, there are always the little secrets of the Carnival, which remain for the few and the knowledgeable.
02
Where to Eat
With all the walking required to fully experience the carnival in Patras, taking a bite to eat is essential. If you love pizza, it is recommended that you head to Mama Pizza (30A Gerokostopoulou 30A). If you prefer a hearty souvlaki, you’ll find it at Cheiropoieto Souvlakopoleio (Riga Feraiou 139), while if you’re a fan of sandwiches, you’ll want to go to Riga (Agiou Andrea 17).
However, if you need a level up from street food, then you should also add some of the great restaurants that the Achaean capital has to offer to your itinerary. After all, in the afternoon, after the endless walks you’ll have taken, who wouldn’t dream of a skordalia accompanied by cod or a goat stew with oven-roasted potatoes, browned and fluffy. So here are some suggestions for good and proper food.
Run by the Loi family with 20 years of experience, Argo ( Iroon Polytechniou 78) is a restaurant that specializes in seafood dishes. Here, you can enjoy the beauty of the coastal landscape, pure and fresh ingredients, and a cozy atmosphere. The lobster and shrimp pasta dishes, taramasalata, octopus, and fresh fried potatoes are all highlights of the menu. Other offerings include marinated anchovies, calamari, filleted sardines, and mussels.
Salumeria (Pantanassis 27) is a Mediterranean restaurant and aperitivo bar in the heart of Patra. They create bold flavors, fashionable dishes, and Mediterranean cuisine, such as beet salad with caramelized pecans, dry-aged beef steak, and octopus carpaccio with lemon oil.
For a more traditional Greek dining experience, visit the Labyrinth (Poukevil 44), also known as “Antypa’s Taverna” among the locals. This restaurant has been serving traditional Greek dishes since 1935, including stuffed cabbage rolls, goat with ladolemono sauce, and cheese pies with anthotyro cheese. La Lila (Riga Feraiou 155), is a café bistro that serves hearty and healthy brunches, trendy coffee, and fashionable dishes from morning to night.
03
Where to Drink
Located in the most central point of the Pantanassis pedestrian street and designed to resemble a New York subway station, Terminale serves coffee in the morning and drinks until late at night. Features various well-known DJs, while every Sunday has Greek rock music. Bocas (Riga Feraiou 39) is an updated wine cellar. Lotos (Sissini 2) has an extensive drink list, well-made cocktails, and many carnival events. Notos (Patreos 80) is Patras’ main jazz bar: an atmospheric bar that also hosts live music nights. Trelli Rodia (Karaiskaki 156) is like a Parisian bistro and always lively, warm, and friendly, while Sofita (Ermou 17) is more modern, narrow, stylish, industrial, and nicely lit. A classic neo-youth bar, made of stone and iron. Tessera (Patreos 69A) is a classic bistro, with very nice cocktails. A charming, atmospheric space, with vintage decor, modern Mediterranean comfort food, and a good wine list.
