The mountain village Planitero, in northern Peloponnese’s Kalavryta area, possesses mythical beauty. Classified as a Natura 2000 area, ensuring nature protection, the village is situated at an altitude of 700 metres. It is surrounded by gigantic plane trees, some with trunk diameters measuring four metres, and is also the location of the Aroania Springs and mountain.
Tavernas, two of which maintain their own trout farms, and rooms for rent, offer simple tourism infrastructure, satisfying for a one-day excursion, or a weekend away with your partner or family.
To fully experience the profound quality of this place, it is worth detaching, for a little, from social activity to explore the dense forest, filled with centuries-old plane trees and offering, at this time of year, strolls over thick layers of fallen leaves. The locale includes crossings over small bridges and the soothing sound of continual water flow. The stream’s momentum was utilised in the past with the installation of basins for laundry and water mills along its passage. No longer in use, these facilities nowadays serve as reminders of bygone years.
Planitero and its unique plane tree forest are overseen by Mount Helmos, the more recent name given to the Aroania mountain range. The Aroania river springs mostly gush from the bottom of a rock at the southwestern side of the mountain. The waters run through a passage of stones and rocks to create an unforgettable fairytale-like setting.
Returning to the village for food, trout is the dominant offering at all tavernas, though meat options are also available. O Planiteros (+30 2692032055, +30 6972322271), a family-run taverna run by Georgia Koutroumanou, is a very good spot. This taverna serves a large variety of trout recipes using fish from its own trout farm. Trout here is served smoked – a process performed at its own facility – as a soup, casserole dish, grilled, pan-fried, deep-fried and as an amandin recipe (with almonds). The taverna also serves delicious pies, a variety of meze shared dishes, wild greens and fresh salads.
Mysterious Cave of the Lakes
The lovely Cave of the Lakes, a miracle of nature, is situated a few kilometres from Planitero, in the village Kastria. It is made unique, worldwide, by a succession of 13 lakes over three levels.
The cave is entered via a man-made entry that leads directly to the second level. This entry was developed after it was decided to promote the cave as a tourist attraction. A corridor leads to an impressive section known as the “chamber of bats”, followed by other corridors and chambers with small lakes.
In winter, the lakes are usually filled with water. Cascading water flows from one lake to another. This maze-like cave with winding corridors and unusual stalactite formations creates an alluring sense of mystery.
At present, a 500-metre section of the cave is open to the public. The well designed lighting offers spectacular viewing over a tour requiring 35-40 minutes to cover.
Call for opening hours, possible waiting time and other details. (+30 2692031001, +30 2692031633).
How to get to Planitero
One travel option is to reach Kalavryta via Diakofto, from the Corinth-Patras highway. The other way to Planitero, via the old highway linking Tripoli and Patras, with a stopover at Kleitoria, at an altitude of 550 metres, is longer but more interesting. If opting for the latter route, consider going out a little further to Hani Kotsioleti, hosting the Pausanias Vine, which, according to certain studies, is believed to be the very same vine of a vineyard referenced by ancient Greek traveller and geographer Pausanias in his work “Arcadika”. Heading towards the village Lykouria leads to the Ladon river source.
If you have a weekend to spend in the area and are willing to clock up some extra mileage, delay your arrival to Planitero for a little longer and take the Kleitoria-Ano Kleitoria and Kasteli route, filled with bends, until you reach the village Aroania, at 900 metres. Forested and water-rich, the location beautifully exemplifies the architecture of mountainous Achaia. Many old stone houses have been preserved in marvellous condition. This is a lovely spot for coffee before getting back on the road for stunning Planitero.