The wild greens of Greek land have been a sustenance source for countless of our ancestors during tough times, and they’re now gracefully reclaiming their rightful place at our dining tables. These naturally occurring wonders provide a veritable, vibrant pharmacy of the earth, offering a plethora of health benefits through our meals. In essence, they might just be one of the finest symbols of the Mediterranean diet’s quality and diversity. Yet, how simple is it for us to acquaint ourselves with these wild greens, and to confidently harvest them?
For Harikleia Palantza, who was raised in the quaint village of Kleismata on the island of Kefalonia, part of an agrarian family, the answer is rather straightforward. She harks back to an era when every island home boasted its own well, providing both drinking water and irrigation for the garden. She explains that many families, including hers, practiced sharecropping, meaning they cultivated the land of others, retaining a portion of the produce to sustain their livelihood. They cultivated wheat, olives, vineyards for refined wines, potatoes, legumes, and vegetables, exemplifying a model of sustainable self-sufficiency. As Harikleia reminisces, the market was a distant concept, and both human and animal legs were often wearied by their daily toil.
She paints a nostalgic picture of her childhood, waking up to a garden meticulously tended by her father. Their evening repast was typically centered around wild greens, complemented with eggs and hearty black bread made from durum wheat. Throughout our conversation, Harikleia frequently invokes the memory of her grandmother, a figure of profound influence, who kindled in her a profound love for nature. It was her grandmother who taught her to gather wild greens and other herbs, to care for the kitchen garden, and imparted one of the most significant life lessons: the patience a plant demands and the art of transforming it into a wholesome, appetizing meal.
During our insightful conversation, Harikleia underscores that the harvesting of wild greens is not confined to a particular season; they can be gathered throughout the year. Come spring, nature certainly unfolds a grand display of varieties, starting with the ground-hugging greens, which are nutrient-dense powerhouses. As the season progresses and plants grow taller, their tender shoots are harvested, morphing into a delectable dish. Even within the confines of one’s garden, the wild plants, often dismissed as weeds, are typically edible. Harikleia lauds the distinct flavour and aroma they infuse into every dish, enriching our culinary experiences.
The dandelion, scientifically known as Taraxacum officinale, serves as an excellent example of valuable wild greens. This distinctive plant’s history extends back to the Ice Age, and it’s also recognized in the ancient texts of Chinese medicine as a source of food and healing. Its vibrant yellow flowers are used in the creation of Dandelion wine. Moreover, some people choose to grind and fry them in a manner akin to zucchini blossoms. Its leaves are used to prepare a tasty boiled salad, while the root, renowned for its medicinal qualities and benefits for gut health, can be used as a coffee substitute when roasted and finely ground.
Current scientific studies champion the dandelion as a primary herb in tackling fatty liver disease. Besides supporting liver health, it facilitates bile secretion, aids with constipation, and can contribute to lowering cholesterol levels. Notably, while the dandelion exhibits diuretic properties, it does not lead to potassium loss, unlike many other diuretics. Therefore, the more we incorporate it into our diets, the more we nourish our bodies, simultaneously supporting detoxification. It is a source of numerous valuable substances, trace elements, vitamin A, and contains more iron than spinach. For this reason, when boiling wild greens, it is suggested to retain the water, adding a touch of lemon and perhaps salt, to make the most of these vital components.
Harikleia enlightens us that as summer arrives, we can gather an array of greens, such as amaranth, endives, sow thistles, and the large, nutrient-rich leaves of cultivated beetroot. She once crafted a ‘hortopita‘ or wild greens pie with an impressive 22 different types of greens. This assortment, referred to as ‘polulogariasta’, combines a variety of species like nettles, grass pea, Bristly oxtongue, sorrel, wild asparagus, wild spring onions, fennel, thistles, along with cultivated sweet chicory, dill, and fresh scallions.
The discussion briefly turns to the sow thistle, also known as ‘zochiá‘ or ‘zochária’. This plant is characterized by a milky sap and can reach up to a meter in height if it’s growing in nutrient-rich soil. Remarkably, even in rocky areas, the plant thrives, becoming richer in vitamins and tastier, as Harikleia notes. Compared to the bitter radish, its flavour leans more towards the sweet side. Its appearance can vary significantly based on whether it grows in the shade (resulting in a lighter color) or in the sun (resulting in a redder hue). This variance can pose a challenge for inexperienced collectors. Notably, sow thistle is among the few wild greens that can be consumed entirely raw.
Harikleia also refers to the Sinapis a type mustard, a plant that leans towards a spicy-bitter taste. This plant is harvested when it is seated, and before blooming, we pick its shoots for a boiled salad.
The sow-thistle is a beautiful plant with a toothed leaf. The chicory stands out with its yellow flowers, sometimes white. It has a wonderful aroma and is eaten raw, in pies, fricassee, or in “tsigaridia“, similar to spinach and rice but with a variety of wild greens. The two types of prickly sow-thistle, distinguished by elongated furry leaves or the toothed formation with more thorns, are also abundantly found.
Our list continues with carizoni, where we encounter two types. It has tender leaves resembling those of celery or parsley. The wild carrot, is a highly aromatic and tasty species. Its root is white and long, reaching up to 30 centimeters. Therefore, it requires a greater effort to extract it from the ground. Both its root and leaves are edible. Harikleia remembers her grandmother adding it to her skordalia (a pungent garlic dip) recipe, giving it an exceptional spicy taste.
The aromatic Mediterranean hartwort, similar to parsley, is often found abundantly. It is suggested for raw or boiled salad, pies, and sautéed with eggs. The poppy we know, less aromatic, is suitable for pies and “tsigaridia”, before it bears its beautiful red flower, welcoming spring. The comb, with leaves similar to a comb earning it its name, is aromatic and used boiled or sautéed. The secret to any recipe with greens, as Harikleia’s grandmother would say, is, of course, salt. If salt is missing, our greens will soften more slowly and with more difficulty. Vinegar or lemon, oil, or even a more contemporary sauce with balsamic and walnut, especially in raw salads, can elevate our gustatory experience.
Harikleia, along with Evi Matiatou, responsible for the Botanical Garden of Kefalonia, have recorded more than 30 plants compiling the book “Wild Greens of Kefalonia”, which is now being updated with new information for a reissue. The first seminars on the subject for the general public were also organized in the Botanical Garden.
Being in touch with nature continues to bring great joy to Harikleia, as does her effort to re-initiate everyone into the valuable offerings of nature. She ponders why, despite the conveniences of modern life, people suffer from stress, which contact with nature always relieves. And perhaps, in a way, she nostalgically recalls the old, demanding times when, however, people often set a table together and shared tasty flavors, songs, and dances.
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