The stunningly beautiful Mikri and Megali Prespa lakes (small and large Prespa) are at the northwest borders of Greece. 300 km² in the Florina region, next to mount Varnountas and at the Albania and Northern Macedonia borders.
Lake Megali Prespa, the largest lake in the Balkans, lies at 850 m. altitude, its deepest point is 50 m, and it covers 290 m². It is shared by three countries, since 22% belongs to Greece, 60% to Northern Macedonia and 18% to Albania.
It is an aquatic paradise of rare natural beauty and value. With over 200 bird species, 1300 plant species, incredible richness in fish, the Prespa lakes welcome you to a unique landscape that exudes calm; villages with stone and brick houses, cloudy landscapes, sunny peaks covered in snow, beech trees and reeds, and endless bean fields.
Each time you visit a place, the first image gives you an idea of what will follow. A cosmopolitan place, an intense place, a calm place, a traditional place, a place perched on a mountain or lying on a valley. Here, in the Prespa area, as soon as you arrive you immediately feel calm. Your head lowers, your eyes relax, and the lands’ and lakes’ fragrances “speak” of past times. Here, time slows down, the absolute silence is interrupted occasionally by birds twittering and animal noises. Abandoned settlements, traditional villages and stone-built houses, the smell of fireplaces always lit. Egrets, cormorants, pelicans and dozens of other bird species are moving lazily around and inside the Megali and Mikri Prespa lakes.
Every movement here, even that of the cars, is relaxed, lazy, it seems like no one is in a hurry. The surrounding mountains are either covered in green or in snow, and seem to be embracing the lakes, to protect them. You will feel the same; joy, warmth, safety, all in an escape from reality. This place is a mosaic of cultures with deep roots throughout the centuries and you feel it from the very first moment.
You know you’ve arrived the moment you get off the national road and face the first crossroads for the village Antartiko – previously known as Zelovo. It’s a gorgeous village, a trip back in time on its own, with its brick-built houses a remnant of a glorious past. The square is full of mansions, old signs, and exudes a “guerrilla” vibe (Antartiko in Greek means guerrilla) since the majority of the residents participated in the Macedonian Struggle.
Leaving Antartiko behind, head towards the location “Porta” a special place also known as Pervali, where you will have the best view of the lakes.
Next on the itinerary, Laimos village and, right after it, Agios Germanos.
Laimos
This is the base of the Municipality of Prespa with important sights like the churches of Agios Ioannis, Agia Paraskevi, Agios Nikolaos and Ipapanti. This is also where the hotel we stayed in was; “Mimallones”, one of the best hotels in the area, with the very hospitable lady in charge, great breakfast – most items prepared by her –, the most comfortable Coco-mat beds and down duvets, perfect for a great night’s sleep.
Agios Germanos
Agios Germanos is built between small rivers. It’s worth visiting the church with the same name, that has been standing there since the 10th century, and also, following the cobbled street next to the church to get to the village’s restored watermill. Here, at the tavern “Prespion”, we had one of the best steaks we’ve ever tasted, with amazing hand-cut fries and great meze to accompany the tsipouro (traditional pomace raki). They also have a great wine list.
Agios Achilios
The nicest excursion is that to the tiny island Agios Achilios – where in the past you could go by boat – which is connected to the mainland by the legendary 650-metre-long floating pedestrian bridge with benches along the way for you to rest. This small island in lake Mikri Prespa is the most touristic place in the area. You should first make a stop at the Agios Achilios Basilica that dates back to the 10th century, and then enjoy local delicacies at the “Agios Achilios” restaurant, right by the water, with local tsipouro. The restaurant also has a small guesthouse, while there is another one on the same street, right across it.
Mikrolimni
Here you can see the cormorant colony on the Vidronisi island in Mikri Prespa lake and visit the church of Agia Paraskevi with the wooden painted altar. A municipal boat takes you to the island and it’s solar-powered and free – at least it was when I went – and so, this small ride is completely noiseless. Here, you’ll also find the tavern “Ta Psaradika tou Hasou” almost on the water, for fish and tsipouro.
Psarades
The main occupation of the residents of this listed traditional village on the banks of the Large Prespa is fishing and that’s where it got its name – Psarades means fishermen in Greek. Apart from fishing, the breeding of a rare dwarf-cow is important for the village’s economy. You’ll see these cows roaming around the village.
Even though it is a small place, there are taverns and cafés on the docks, and on the weekends they fill with visitors coming from nearby areas. The last tavern on the promenade is “I Sintrofia” and we enjoyed a bean soup, local fish and other delicacies.
You’ll see that boats and small speedboats leave Psarades for a different local trip. With a guide you can visit the ‘askitaria’ of Prespa, unique monastic locations where, between the 14th and 16th century, monks set up their hermitages due to the beauty and safety against the local Turks the area provided at the time. Perched on the rocks and on the lake’s banks, prepare yourself for stunning hikes.
The café-grocery shop “O Petros” is here too, where you can get a coffee and also buy local products. In addition, you can buy the famous beans and giant beans in every size and colour as well as local fish from the lake at the grocery shops in Agios Germanos.
Finally, don’t hesitate to go on one of the dirt roads by the lake, that are even on google maps – so you won’t feel uncertain about where to turn next – to see amazing spots on the lake, as well as deer, squirrels and foxes. Look at everything with care and respect for the environment.
Nearby excursions
Visit the Vigla – Pisoderi ski centre, at 1.600 m. Between Vitsi and Varnountas mountains, with chalets and nine ski pistes.
