If someone unfamiliar with the Small Cyclades asked what these tiny islands, scattered in the middle of the Aegean Sea, are, then perhaps the best answer is: “Go to Schinoussa and you’ll understand.”
And that’s because no other island of this small island complex is more representative of the character and vibe of the Small Cyclades: an accessible, pocket-sized paradise, with secret landscapes, and hidden beauties that take the breath away, golden sandy beaches, diaphanous waters, and ethereal calm. And at the same time, subtle, mild tourist development that creates the perfect conditions for relaxed vacations providing a variety of choices in terms of gastronomy and entertainment.
Schinoussa is not the largest of the Small Cyclades, but it is the one with the largest tourist development. It’s the one where a large number of luxury yachts gather in the port in the summer, and where crowds arrive mainly for its stunning beaches that are the main ‘sight’ on the island.
And if you’re history buffs, Schinoussa, with the dreamy beaches, also has things to offer you. Just head to the medieval Venetian castle standing above the beach of Fountana, at the southern part of the island, where you can admire the view and get a taste of life on the island in the 15th century, when the residents of Schinoussa, an island that has been inhabited since antiquity, lived under the constant threat of pirates and sought ways to protect themselves. The castle’s fortress protected them from the regular attacks of the pirate ships. While the daily life on Schinoussa in more recent times can be seen in thorough detail from the exhibits at the Folklore Museum, that include traditional costumes, homeware, and farming tools.
Hiking to the top of Vargies
Like in Donoussa, the largest of the Small Cyclades, in Schinoussa you don’t need a car. You don’t even need a motorbike, and definitely not a bicycle, since the mountainous trails and the uphill terrain would make cycling particularly hard. Instead, walk. Start in Hora, that is also called Panagia, and follow the trail that leads to Vargies, the highest point of the island, with the amazing view. Then, go down towards the remote beach of Gerolimnionas for a swim in the cool turquoise waters. In general, hiking on the mountainous part of the island is an amazing, wild and authentic experience, and the perfect way to see the island’s true face, with the few houses scattered on the slopes, the simple, hospitable people who will strike a conversation with you from their small gardens. So, enjoy the route before you end on a beach for swimming. On the way back, towards the port, you’ll also see the famous Spileo tou Maniati cave, that is linked to the legend of a pirate who came to the island to rob the church of Panagia Akathi, but after leaving the church carrying his loot, slipped and fell off a tall rock, dying on the rocks near the cave.
Another great way to see Schinoussa, if you’re not in your own boat, is in a sea taxi or a caique. They leave from the port regularly and go round all of the island’s beaches.
Where to swim
Tsigkouri
The most well-known beach of Schinoussa is just a five-minute-walk from Hora. The only thing you need to do is follow the path that starts at the main village. After a short, refreshing hike, you’ll come across the wonderful, crystal-clear waters of Tsigkouri, and right across it a small skerry, with the name Plaka. You can easily get there on a canoe that you can hire on the beach, and spend some time on your own deserted island, like true castaways.
When you’re back in Tsigkouri, choose a spot under the shade of a tamarisk tree and enjoy heaven on earth. There’s a small beach bar nearby, where you can get a coffee or something to eat. That’s the magic of the Small Cyclades: they appear to be pristine, untouched by time and people, with small remote beaches in the middle of nowhere, but just a few metres away there’s activity and people, a small tavern, a cute café, and somewhere in the distance you can hear music. Tourist development is slowly getting there, but the feeling of isolation and the charm of the unexplored remain.
Psili Amos
A truly lovely beach on the north-eastern part of the island, near the second largest village of the island, Mesaria consisting of a small coast surrounded by a virgin landscape of sand dunes and rocks, creating a wild setting.
The beach has soft fine sand, while at some spots there are small pebbles. There are no cafés or restaurants here, so bring your own provisions. Don’t forget to also bring an umbrella, as there are only a few tamarisks on the beach and finding shade is a challenge. One of the beach’s great advantages is the amazing view; on clear days you can see Amorgos, Koufonisia and even Keros.
Livadi
A dreamy beach, one of the most beautiful in all of the Small Cyclades. Livadi is the ideal destination for families due to the wide sandy beach and the protected bay. The often-strong northern winds that hit the other beaches on the island, don’t reach Livadi.
Livadi is about 1km from Hora and the route on foot is very easy. But Livadi is also accessible by car via an easy dirt road that leads to a small parking lot behind the beach. There are no umbrellas or sunbeds, but there are many trees offering shade. Bring your own provisions as there are not cafés or beach bars on the beach. If you enjoy snorkelling, Livadi has an impressive seabed worth exploring.
Liolios
A lovely bay, all alone in a corner of this tiny island. On the small sandy beach of Liolios, there’s only a cute, scenic hotel with blue shutters and banisters.
You’ll feel completely alone in Schinoussa and will find shade in some of the few tamarisk trees at the back of the beach. Since this beach is relatively far from Hora, and from the mountainous Mesaria village, you’ll be able to unplug and disconnect, and truly relax.
Gerolimnionas
An amazing, small, quiet beach on a large bay that people who enjoy snorkelling love. In beautiful Gerolimnionas, you’ll lose track of time under your umbrella – that you need to bring with you as there’s no natural shade on the beach and the sun is brutal. The clean, glistening water will help you cool off even on the hottest day. In front of you the endless blue of the Aegean Sea and Amorgos, Ios, and Kato Koufonisi in the horizon comprise a stunning view.
Where to eat
Deli restaurant & sweet bar
A very good restaurant in Hora that serves traditional flavours with a modern twist on elegant tables. At Deli you’ll have great seafood, we especially recommend the risotto, but ‘sweet bar’ in the name is there for a reason; at ‘Deli’ you’ll have unforgettable desserts. We recommend the rizogalo or the baclava, as they’re truly something else.
Tsigkouri beach bar
On the famous Tsigkouri beach, the laidback beach bar becomes a refuge for swimmers who want to take a break from the sun and want to have great food by the sea. It’s the only beach bar on Schinoussa, while in the evenings it turns into a party with groups of people playing music on the beach and dancing till dawn. At Tsigkouri, time stops, and night swimming is almost inevitable, the cherry on top of the perfect holidays.
Kira Pothiti
If you’ve been even to Schinoussa, you will have visited ‘Kira Pothiti’ restaurant in Hora, with the lovely view of the sea and the warm, Cycladic décor.
They serve tasty casserole dishes, including pasticcio and moussaka, fresh fish and well-grilled meats. The narrow alley next to the restaurant is also very cute and romantic.
It’s best to book in advance, especially during the weekends as it gets crowded.
Captain Cook
Back at Tsigkouri, you’ll find the lovely restaurant ‘Captain Cook’ that sets its tables and blue chairs on a small hill over the sea. There, you can have breakfast or have a coffee and enjoy the view in the morning, while they also serve great seafood, and tasty quick snacks for after-swimming munchies.
For drinks
Schinoussa shows another face in the evenings. The shops in Hora turn their lights on, and the tables in the alleys fill with people. Music is heard everywhere and refreshing cocktails are carried on trays. Early in the evening, go to ‘Kafenio tis Haras’, one of the best-known bars in Hora, with the white Cycladic walls and the turquoise shutters. It’s small and scenic and in the evening is bustling with life.
Later, head to ‘Vrahos’, Schinoussa’s small club, where people party till dawn.
