Next to the sea and close to the villages of mountainous Nafpaktia, Nafpaktos has its own character and atmosphere. Facing the big harbour, in the shadow of the castle, the lights of the big bridge shining in the background, we discover the best options for walks, sightseeing, food and accommodation.

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This town of 13,000 inhabitants is interesting and atmospheric in itself. It is worth visiting the Venetian Harbour, where one of the most important battles in Europe against the Ottomans, the Battle of Nafpaktos in 1571, took place, as well as the narrow streets and the castle above the town. Don’t miss the opportunity to walk by the sea at sunset.

A walk in the castle town

Discover the walls of the old city.  From the Castle of Nafpaktos, two axes run vertically through the city and descend to the sea. Four horizontal walls divide the city into five sections. Look for the walls in the old streets, pass from one section to the other and end up at the castle, from where the view is impressive.

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The Castle of Nafpaktos/Photo: Shutterstock
Nafpaktos’ castle/ Photo: Shutterstock

The Cervantes statue

What is Miguel Cervantes doing in Nafpaktos? The author of the famous novel “Don Quixote” served as a non-commissioned officer in the Spanish army and in this capacity he found himself in October 1571 fighting the Ottomans during the Battle of Nafpaktos.

He was seriously wounded in the chest and in his left arm, which has been paralysed ever since. In the Venetian Harbour you will see his elegant statue and inscriptions honouring those who fought in the crucial naval battle.

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Evoinos’ delicious dishes/ Photo: Facebook
Try the Cypriot pita bread with spicy minced meat, yogurt and oriental spices/ Photo: Facebook

Bursts of delight

Referendum and denunciation, postponement and loans; it’s not a news bulletin, it’s Evoinos’ delicious dishes. Next to Stenopazaro, the hottest spot in Nafpaktos, the stone-paved courtyard is filled with groups friends listening to rebetiko music while sampling Evoinos’ appetizers with the imaginative names. Try the Cypriot pita bread with spicy minced meat, yogurt and oriental spices, but also the scolding (chicken with bacon, yogurt and parsley), the mushroom risotto and the cake (tower of grilled vegetables and halloumi cheese). Info: 3, Sismani street, Nafpaktos, +30 26340 28266

Great food and delicious meze

Just behind the port, the Papoulis tavern serves excellent food and delicious meze at its tables on a wide pedestrian street, as well as at a small balcony overlooking the sea. We had mouth-watering meatballs and zucchini fritters but also fresh red mullets and vinegary anchovies. Info: Sismani & Formionos street, Nafpaktos port, +30 26340 21578

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Almost all rooms overlook the sea or the castle of Nafpaktos/ Photo: Hotel Akti
“Arxontiko Pepo’s”/Photo: arxontiko-pepos.gr

Artistic hospitality

One would not imagine that in Nafpaktos one would find such an artistic and at the same time hospitable hotel, the “Hotel Akti”. Objects by Philippe Starck and decorations from India coexist harmoniously in the lobby, while bright colours everywhere contribute to the pleasant atmosphere. Almost all rooms overlook the sea or the castle of Nafpaktos. On the top floor there are 4 spacious luxury suites with huge beds and marble bathrooms full of natural cosmetics. Info: 3, Korydaleos street, Nafpaktos, +30 26340 28464, www.akti.gr

Do not miss the opportunity to enjoy a stay at boutique hotel “Arxontiko Pepo’s”. Pepo, who lived there in the 20th century, lent her refinement, elegance, hospitality and the names of her children and grandchildren to name the 7 rooms. The patina on the wardrobe and door, the selected furniture, Cocomat mattresses and Apivita cosmetics reveal attention to detail. Perfect for a family of four, “Maria” is our favourite room. Info: 11, Ilarhou Tzavella street, Nafpaktos, +30 26340 38185, www.arxontiko-pepos.gr

A trip to the mountains

It is worth visiting the villages of mountainous Nafpaktia: The villages of Ano Hora, Platanos, Elatos are all quite interesting, surrounded by greenery and full of wonderful restaurants. The road is uphill and winding, but it shouldn’t take you more than 1 hour or so to each of these villages.

How to get there:  Nafpaktos is 217 km from Athens via the National Road Athens-Patras. After the Rio-Antirrio bridge, turn right and in 10 km you will be in Nafpaktos. The trip takes about 2.5 hours.

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