The lowland region of Thesprotia, situated near the regional borders with Preveza, which harbours the mountains of Paramythia to its east and the springs of the Acheron River to its west, unveils a landscape of awe-inspiring natural beauty and lavish greenery. Simultaneously, it embodies a locale of historical significance, maintaining intimate ties with the Souliotes and their villages, particularly during the course of the 18th and 19th centuries.
It is no coincidence that it was here that the Treaty of Glyki was signed shortly after the outbreak of the 1821 Greek War of Independence: named after the eponymous village in Thesprotia, the treaty marked a period of truce between the Souliote people and the Turkish-Albanian beys of the region, those who were subject to the orders of Ali Pasha.
However, an even more prominent symbol of this relationship with the Souliote people was a path carved into the rocks that tower above Glyki, which became known as Skala Tzavelaina. For the Souliote people, it held critical practical value, serving as a communication hub. For the contemporary visitor to the region, it stands as a beautiful landmark, offering breathtaking views towards the gorge of the Acheron, and the opportunity for a delightful hike through the semi-mountainous terrains of Thesprotia.
Astounding Views and Relaxed Hikes
Even the mere utterance of the name, ‘Skala Tzavelaina’, whispers of the ancient nature of this particular path, subtly transporting us back to times when the Souliote people traversed it, moving between their villages and the plains of Paramythia.
Moreover, the name Tzavelaina is no accident; it directly references Moscho Tzavella (1760-1803), wife of Lambros Tzavellas and mother of Fotos, who valiantly fought against Ali Pasha in the Battle of Kiafas (1792), and subsequently embarked on a journey of exile towards the Ionian Islands following the destruction of Souli by the Turk-Albanians. It’s said that no Souliote could traverse the path whilst mounted on a horse (or any other beast of burden) until Moscho accomplished it. Henceforth, in her honour, it came to be known as Skala Tzavelaina.
The path emerges, carved into the rock, in a stepped form, becoming a landmark for the area of Glyki, and a magnet for visitors – especially during spring and autumn. Initially, you’ll embark from the metal bridge of Glyki on the main road (a sign will indeed guide you left after the first 500 metres), following the bank of the Acheron, before navigating through the narrows of the springs of this river, famed since ancient times, prior to commencing your ascent. At the higher and “serpentine” sections of the route, you will find yourself on Skala Tzavelaina.
All around, you’ll witness a world seemingly ‘submerged’ in lush greenery, while your eyes will continually feast on the natural beauty and gradually revealed vistas as you ascend. The path itself is notably straightforward, even welcoming to novice hikers. Expect approximately a 2-hour journey to approach Samoniva, the first in line of the Souliote villages. Here, you can pause, gazing at the unparalleled view towards the gorge of Acheron. Subsequently, you may choose to return to Glyki, either retracing your steps back down Skala Tzavelaina or via Souli, if you’ve arranged for a car to await you at Samoniva.
Embarking on a trek along the region’s well-trodden paths is an experience during which many natural splendours unfold, and your adventure need not be confined to merely the well-known routes. From Skala Tzavelainas, within a brief 30-minute trek, you can reach the Dala Bridge, where the surrounding forest of maples offers a serene backdrop. Also, when stationed at Skala Tzavelainas, you may notice another trail that leads to this spot, starting from the Information Kiosk in Glyki. Should you choose to explore it, it will take you downhill along the mountainside, until you reach the banks of the Acheron River.
There, prepare to wade through the river’s shallow waters and cross to the other side: a worthwhile endeavour indeed, for it leads to a cave locally referred to as ‘Dragon’s Cave‘ or ‘Spirit’s Cave‘, echoing ancient folk beliefs about such beings inhabiting the remote, mountainous locations in Thesprotia. From that point, a further 10-minute walk following the river’s flow along its bank will bring you back to the aforementioned Information Kiosk. The surrounding scenery, replete with age-old plane trees, ferns, and various species of hydrophilic vegetation, is considered one of the most enchanting in the environs of Glyki.
How to Get There
To hike to Skala Tzavelainas, you’ll first need to reach the historic village of Glyki, situated in the lowlands and semi-mountainous regions of southeastern Thesprotia, at an altitude of 80 meters. This agricultural village, with a population of 438 (according to the 2011 census), is not only easily reachable but has also gained tourist acclaim due to its proximity to the springs of the Acheron River – located approximately 2 kilometres outside its current residential boundaries.
To reach Glyki, ideally, you would start from Igoumenitsa or Preveza. From the capital of Thesprotia, the distance is 51 kilometres, which you can traverse by road in about an hour, following the Paramythia-Preveza road. Similar driving time is anticipated if starting from Preveza, with the distance being slightly longer (almost 56 kilometres). From here, you will navigate the National Road of Preveza-Igoumenitsa, until encountering the village of Mesopotamos. There, change your course and follow the signs for the Springs of the Acheron until you arrive in Glyki.
