On a crisp, sun-drenched Sunday morning, as Athens was slowly waking up, I found myself happily munching on a deliciously fresh, homemade piroshki from an unassuming bakery café in Karaiskaki Square in downtown Athens. Little did I know, this serendipitous find was merely the appetizer to a day brimming with memorable tasting experiences.
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Gathering at the rendezvous point with a lively bunch, all buzzing with anticipation for our adventure to Mega Spileo Estate in Kalavryta, it was clear we were a merry band of oenophiles embarking on a quest. The air was charged with laughter and the kind of excited chatter reminiscent of school trips, hinting at the mirthful mayhem to ensue, especially when wine would be poured into the mix.
Our minibus was set to whisk us away to Diakopto, a scenic coastal town in western Greece’s Achaea region. From there, our journey would take a gripping turn aboard the ‘Odondoto,’ an old-world rack railway train that meanderers through a gorge with cascading waters and wildly lush beauty, which set the tone for our epicurean escapade.
What & Where is Kalavryta?
Situated in the northern Peloponnese, Kalavryta is not just a quaint mountain town but a beacon of Greek history and natural beauty. It is renowned for its pivotal role in the Greek War of Independence, proclaimed from the Monastery of Agia Lavra in 1821, and for enduring one of Greece’s worst tragedies during World War II when 500 men from the village were executed by Nazi forces. Today, Kalavryta has become a premier winter getaway, with a ski center on Mount Helmos with diverse slopes catering to all levels of skiers. The area is also a treasure trove of cultural sites, from ancient monasteries to poignant war memorials, and natural wonders including the Vouraikos Gorge. The town’s heart, 25th Martiou Street, offers a vibrant mix of dining and shopping, encapsulating the spirit of local life.
The Crew
The invitation came courtesy of Christos Theodoropoulos, the sommelier-about-town (and wine writer for Travel.gr International), who curated a group as diverse as it was dazzling, made up of people well worth discovering if you’d like to learn more about Greek food and wine.
Accompanying me was the TV presenter and writer Lefteris Tringas and social media personalities of the Greek gastronomic scene: from pastry chef vlogger Madame Gateaux (Calliope Anagnosti) to savvy TikTok star Ikon5 (the insightful Konstandinos Antoniadis), and the innovative home chef Surtuko (the spirited Marianna Gkitsaki). Wine Gini (the visionary Georgia Panagopoulou) brought her vinicultural know-how, alongside Phoebe Guerrera, whose Oinoverse brand marries the artistry of wine with chic, inspired accessories.
Together, we formed a fellowship of food and wine aficionados, ready to experience the best of Kalavryta’s wine experience one sip at a time.
Greece offers plenty of exciting opportunities for wine lovers to take their tastebuds on fascinating adventures. I’ve swirled, sniffed, and sipped my way through the legendary vineyards of Nemea and Santorini, ventured off the beaten path in other lands known for their wine production like Ikaria, Crete, Attica and Limnos, and indulged in exquisite wine pairings at Athenian restaurants that have made it a stellar art, like Herve – our sommelier guide’s home turf – Vassilenas, CTC Urban Gastronomy, and Soil Restaurant. My palate has also been schooled at Athens’ finest wine fests, from Oenorama to the Wine and Arts Festival, making me a devout pilgrim in the holy land of Hellenic grape. By pure coincidence, I have several wine appreciating friends and end up also attending regular mini wine festivals in private homes.
Kalavryta was a departure from my usual grape-chasing grounds. Known more for its snowy slopes than its vineyards, it was a destination I had overlooked, given my ski gear gathers dust rather than snow. Yet, here I was, ready to discover the wine world hidden amidst its renowned winter wonderland.
Just hours into our journey, we reached the old stone facade of the Odondoto train station, eagerly boarding the snug carriages of this 125-year-old engineering marvel. The rack railway system, a feat of innovation with its cogwheel design, ensures a steadfast ascent through steep terrain. Our route took us through the breathtaking Vouraikos Gorge, climbing 750 meters above sea level across a 22-kilometer stretch. The surrounding myths, like that of Hercules carving the gorge for love, added a layer of wonder to our journey. Lasting about an hour from Diakofto, this trip was a feast for the eyes filled with ooh and aahs.
As we journeyed through the Vouraikos Gorge aboard the Odondoto, we glimpsed groups of hikers exploring on foot. The gorge is a four-hour trek that promises views of cascading waterfalls, hidden caves, climbable rocks and verdant landscapes. It’s a biodiversity hotspot, sheltering diverse plant life and rare birds such as the griffon vulture and peregrine falcon. The trail runs parallel to the railway, welcoming those of moderate fitness with clear markings and accessibility throughout the year, weather permitting.
Arriving in Kalavryta one hour later, we stretched our legs in the bustling alpine town, many of us bee-lining for the local delicacy—a buttery, flaky cheese pie filled with creamy feta, like my breakfast pioshki, a world apart from the mass-produced versions found in Athens. The combination of the pie’s warmth, the crisp mountain air, and hints of woodsmoke created an ambience of rustic comfort and regeneration. Surrounded by open skies and snow-capped peaks, I found myself both relaxed and rejuvenated, like waking up after a long urban coma. Once again, I was astounded how in Greece one can reach a starkly different world within just a few hours travel.
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The Mega Spileo Estate
Holy Vines
A 40-minute drive from Kalavryta train station brought us to the Mega Spileo Estate, named after the nearby monastery established in 362 AD, one of Greece’s oldest. This historic monastery, with its ancient frescoes and stunning views from 924m up, is closely tied to the estate. In the mid-15th century, monks cultivated grapes and produced wine here, initially for Holy Communion and later for the local community. The estate showcases this heritage, featuring a historic wine press, sleeping quarters, and a chapel.
As the road to the winery was a bit on the icy side, we opted for the scenic route on foot, breathing in the fresh mountain air and soaking up the epic scenery of towering mountains and dramatic gorges. From our elevated path, the Mega Spileo Estate revealed itself in a valley below, like a scene from a painting. Perched within the Helmos-Vouraikos National Geopark, part of the Natura 2000 initiative, this vineyard is cradled by history and natural beauty. Here, the unique micro-climates and a commitment to organic and traditional vineyard practices give rise to wines with a signature flair—aromatic, rich, and complex.
Our tasting unfolded in a cozy hall of stone and wood, where we lined up at a long wooden bench, ready to dive into the estate’s offerings of whites, rosés, and reds, guided by Theodoropoulos and the estate’s oenologist, Evelyn. Kicking off with their newest bubbly, we were introduced to a sparkling wine bursting with green fruit aromas like pear and apple, laced with floral undertones. Named Mystic, this effervescent delight blends two lesser-known Greek grapes across vintages, each year layering in more complexity.
Of all the pours, the Mega Spileo Red 2015 really stood out for me, and unsurprisingly it is the estate’s bestseller. It’s a robust blend of 60% Mavrodaphne and 40% Black of Kalavryta, mellowed for two years in barrels. The Mega Spileo Estate Assyrtiko-Lagorthi blend (75%-25%, vintage 2019) also had me asking for another drop, just for my palate of course. It’s a barrel-aged white with whispers of butter, vanilla, and toasted nuts. Theodoropoulos hinted at its aging potential, suggesting it only gets better with time.
Just when we thought our wine-infused journey had hit its peak, we ventured off to Orias Guesthouse and Farm for a rustic and unforgettable meal. Orchestrated by Theodopoulos and the team from Mega Spileo Estate, we we delighted in the art of pairing wine with food, with the backdrop of Kalavryta’s scenic landscapes. Orias isn’t just any farm; it’s an agritourism haven where organic produce is grown, animals are cared for and guests can truly commune with nature. The ethos here is simple yet profound: farm-to-table isn’t a buzzword, it’s the heart and soul of their culinary philosophy, enhanced by the homegrown ingredients and produce sourced from small farmers in the area.
The food, prepared by Chef Alexandros Nikolopoulos outdoors and transformed by the primal element of fire under the stars (and with no light pollution we delighted in seeing plenty of them), brought a new depth to our experience. The technique of preparing food over an open flame did more than just cook the food well; it infused each bite with a flavor-packed rustic authenticity that’s hard to find in oven cooked foods. As we savored each dish, from the subtly complex to the boldly flavored, it was clear: simplicity, when paired with genuine passion and a touch of fire, can elevate a meal from merely good to highly memorable.
I am still dreaming of the saganaki (melted cheese) with homemade mulberry jam, the Bouyiourdi (feta cheese baked with peppers, tomato, chilli and herbs) with smoked sausage, that Theodoropolous artfully paired with the estate’s Cuvee III Red 2022, and especially the mouthwatering Trachanoto (like a risotto, but made with trachana) with wild mushrooms, paired with Mega Spileo Orange Wine 2016. Also delectable were the roast potatoes with smoked trout and our dessert of apple pie with fire-caramelised apples.
Orias is certainly a place I’m looking forward to returning to for an agritourism escape with family or friends, (they also run a 10-day summer camp for kids aged 9-13), to enjoy the silence and regenerating climate, caring for the animals there, sustainability and farming workshops, hiking and more adventures in nature. Some of these worthwhile experiences include the following guide.
The Way Back
Returning to Athens the following day (of course armed with my favourite Mega Spileo Estate wines), after spending the night at Amario Suites a seafront hotel that Theodoropoulos chose because, like everything else we discovered in the day, has a wine-centric character, with its own cava, I felt like I had been away for a week.
So rich, revitalising, enriching and delicious were the experiences we had, and the company I was in, that I could not fathom it had only been 24 hours of absence from my daily existence. Planning a wine-tasting excursion with a hike, dinner or cave visit thrown in is easy as it is memorable, and highly recommended whether you are in Athens or the Peloponnese.
A mere stone’s throw from Kalavryta, just 17 kilometres to be exact, lies a hidden gem that sounds more like a scene from a medieval novel than a real place. The Kastria Cave, located near its namesake village, is home to 13 internal lakes, each with its own character and charm. Depending on when you visit, you’re in for a seasonal show—winter dazzles with waterfalls formed from melting snow, while summer reveals the slow, magical birth of new stalagmites. Discovered in 1964, this underground marvel unveils a labyrinth of paths winding through mystical galleries spread over three levels, only one of which is visitable. This accessible stretch, about 500 metres in length, includes the cave’s pièce de résistance: its largest lake, stretching an impressive 120 metres in length and reaching depths of up to six metres. And let’s not forget the resident bats, which add just the right touch of eerie to this captivating subterranean world.
Planitero, near Kalavryta, is great place for those in search of peace and nature, with Mount Helmos as a dramatic backdrop. At 700 meters above sea level, the mountain village is known for its ancient plane trees and the crystal-clear waters of the Aroania Springs. You can expect to feast on freshly farmed trout at the local tavernas and find snug places to stay that feel like a home away from home. If your travel checklist includes fresh air, fresh food, and fewer crowds, Planitero ticks all the boxes.
The Kalavryta Ski Resort
Kalavryta Ski Resort on Mt Helmos offers a variety of winter sports with 12.2 km of slopes for all levels of ability: 4.8 km are easy (39%), 5.8 km are intermediate (48%) and 1.6 km are difficult (13%), ensuring a varied skiing experience. The resort has eight lifts to transport guests across its vast terrain, which ranges in altitude from 1,700 to 2,325 metres. The resort is a hub for winter fun, including a dedicated area for snowboarding and other snow-based activities, demonstrating its versatility and appeal to a wide audience. In addition, its facilities for hosting parties and events make it a lively destination throughout the ski season. For those planning a visit, the resort operates during the peak season with ski passes priced at €28 for adults and €20 for juniors, making it an affordable option for families and groups.
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Where to shop
For those interested in shopping local souvenirs and food products, Kalavryta’s pedestrian-friendly 25th Martiou Street serves as the hub of activity, with a variety of shops, cafés, and eateries. Starting from the train station and meandering through the main square onto the cobbled lanes, visitors can explore a selection of local produce, handicrafts, and mementos in the traditional shops.
Hotels in the area cater to diverse preferences and offers a broad range of accommodations, from the centrally located Kalavryta Canyon Hotel & Spa with its chic rooms and comprehensive amenities to the unique experience of Orias Guesthouse & Farm in Kerpini village, offering a stay on an organic farm. Alternatively, Anerada Hotel provides a welcoming atmosphere with a generous breakfast featuring freshly baked bread, homemade jams, and pies, ensuring a warm and delightful stay, while for a homey yet deluxe stay in the heart of nature, there’s Coquelicot, a beautiful four-bedroom chalet in Kalavryta’s chestnut forest of Kertezi.
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How to Get There
Traveling by train from Athens, start at Athens Railway Station and head towards Diakopto Railway Station. The trip to Diakopto lasts around 2 hours. Upon arrival in Diakopto, board the Odontotos rack railway for a picturesque journey to Kalavryta, lasting about an hour.
For those who prefer driving, renting a car in Athens and taking the E94 national road west is an option. The drive to Kalavryta typically takes about 2.5 hours, but this can vary based on traffic and road conditions.
We Know What We’re Talking About
Alexia Amvrazi knows Greece like few others. She’s the Editor-in-Chief of the International edition of Travel.gr, the co-author of the guidebook ‘111 Places in Athens You Must Not Miss’, the former presenter of a 10-year daily radio show about Greek life at AIR FM and, for the past 15 years, the mastermind behind the always up-to-date Fodor’s Athens guide. She has a knack for recognizing beauty and potential and is a true citizen of the world.
