Kardamyli and Stoupa are perhaps the two most emblematic villages of Western or Outer Mani, as the locals call it. Few are those who have never heard of them. These three beaches, while situated a stone’s throw away from each other, are surprisingly distinct. Perhaps their only commonality lies in their preserved authenticity and the rugged character of the Mani Peninsula.
However, many do not know that three jewels lie between them, in the 7-kilometre stretch that separates them. Three beaches that have been attracting more and more visitors over the years.
01
Kalamitsi Beach
Just one kilometer from Kardamili is Kalamitsi, a beach that is somewhat “hybrid” between the nature of Mani and the Cyclades. It has large, round pebbles shaped by time, as well as sandy parts especially suitable for children. Kalamitsi became more known when the famous English travel writer Patrick Leigh Fermor settled near there in the later years of his life. A philhellene who played a significant role in Crete’s Resistance during the German occupation, and overall a fascinating personality, he put this area on the map through his writings. At Kalamitsi you won’t find sunbeds and umbrellas, but can instead enjoy a pristine, ultra-clean beach, surrounded by greenery – but without shade.
02
Foneas Beach
Heading south, a few kilometers on, we find the beach that has become a symbol of summer for the residents of Kalamata for decades, despite the nearly one-hour drive required to get there, because of its clean waters. As terrifying as its name sounds, Foneas (murderer) beach is peaceful. It has somewhat coarse pebbles and a monumental rock cleaves the beach (at sea) into two distinct parts. The beach shack, a lovely little oasis, sits here. Conveniently, there’s a lavatory, and a dedicated effort to maintain the cleanliness of the beach is evident. Parking spots are also available, if you’re fortunate enough to arrive relatively early.
03
Delfinia Beach
Pressing onward towards Stoupa, another hidden jewel reveals itself – Delfinia beach. Shielded from view, it welcomes discerning beachgoers with its perpetually calm and crystal-clear waters. Visitors can indulge in everything from a refreshing beverage to a snack, or even an ouzo with its accompanying meze. It’s the ideal place to take respite from the blazing sun or to conclude a day at sea, replenishing lost fluids and calories. If you enjoy swimming, visit the cave of Polyora, northward of the beach. Here you’ll find a small sandy beach with an alluring backdrop of stalactites, and a beach shack situated just above the shore.
