Unspoiled and rugged Tilos is still welcoming and few places in Greece continue to offer such remote, seductive charm. This off-beat spot possesses a deep history stretching back to the Neolithic period when experts estimate first communities began to establish themselves on the island. Tilos is small and generally easy to cover, and it can be explored over and over. Take in the ancient aura, swim at the remote beaches, sense the energy of Tilos’ medieval background stretching from the Castle of the Knights to the fascinating abandoned village of Mikro Horio, and visit the Paleontological Museum near Megalo Horio, where fossilized bones of dwarf elephants are exhibited.
It is not an exaggeration to claim that Tilos is one of the few places where the social structure has remained unchanged over centuries; ancient legends appear to live on here. Spending just a few days on this microscopic isolated Dodecanese island is an unforgettable experience that promises to take you back in time. Ferryboats run at least two to three times a week from Piraeus to Livadia, Tilos’ charming
and quiet harbour.
Where to swim
Livadia
Livadia, Tilos’ best-known beach, situated close to the harbour of the same name, is easy to reach, unlike many other beaches on the island where access can often prove complicated. Livadia beach is covered with small pebbles, while the sea is clean and transparent. Visitors may rent beach umbrellas and sunbeds here but if you prefer you will find plenty of trees for shade along the beach. Numerous shops, cafes, as well as some of the best restaurants on the island are located nearby.
Eristos
Eristos is a much-loved beach on the island’s western edge where visitors appreciate its soft sand
from one side to the other. The beach is surrounded by impressive rocks and is essentially divided into two sections; a serviced side with beach umbrellas and sun beds, as well as a free side where you may lay out your towel. Long and wide, Eristos caters to all, from families with children at one end, nudists at the other, as well as groups of revelers who like to spend late nights partying with guitars and beer. Do bear in mind that the water at Eristos is colder than normal as the Tilos-Eristos springs flow into the sea.
Agios Antonios
Agios Antonios beach, at the eponymous charming seaside village, is so laid-back it casts your memory back to those childhood summers that seemed to last forever. The beach is pebble-covered and endowed with superb, blue waters. Its impressive palm trees offer rich shade, even during the hot midday hours of summer, and lots of seaside cafes and restaurants are located nearby.
Plaka
If you hear about a beach on Tilos with proud peacocks that roam free, then this beach is no other than Plaka, a small bay approximately 4 km from Agios Antonios. Small pebbles, idyllic waters, complete serenity, and a few trees for shade combine to create an exotic setting on this remote Greek island and, understandably, Plaka becomes a free-camping attraction in the summer.
Lethra
Taking off from Livadia, the island port, head along the route leading to Lethra. This narrow yet spectacular trail offers a sensational view of the Aegean Sea, and Lethra, a superb beach on Tilos’ eastern side, is about 40 minutes away. It is an ideal spot for swimming in secluded turquoise seas.
Vlyhada
Vlyhada, a beach with crystal-clear waters close to Livadia, is a great place to go to if you prefer an experience that is a lot quieter than Livadia beach. To reach Vlyhada, you need to walk along an elevated trail that is easy to cross but not ideal if you happen to be afraid of heights and steep descents. For a simpler approach, a daily boat service in summer, offers transportation to various hard-to-reach beaches on the island, including Vlyhada.
Tholo, Skafi, Agios Stefanos
Tholo, Agios Stefanos and Skafi, all secluded beaches, are among the island’s beautiful beaches that can only be reached by boat from Livadia. Make sure to be fully equipped with everything from beach umbrellas to water as none of these beaches are serviced.
Food and drink
Kritikos, a traditional restaurant, serves hearty meals, from delicious casserole recipes to fresh fish and seafood. Try the prawn saganaki (with melted cheese), the refreshing avocado salad, as well as the scrumptious fried cheese drizzled with honey. The view is amazing from here and if you have already eaten elsewhere, Kritikos is also terrific for enjoying a drink with a sea view.
Mediterranean Delights
Literally on the beach, Mediterranean Delights, one of the most well-known and popular restaurants in Livadia, is open from early in the day, offering a breakfast menu with lots of variety, and carries on throughout the day with many dishes to choose from, including seafood and delicious, expertly grilled souvlaki. All ingredients used at the restaurant are supplied by local producers, while the restaurant maintains its own fields for the fruit and vegetables used in the kitchen.
Kastro restaurant’s lovely veranda
At Megalo Horio, the picturesque capital high in mountain territory, Kastro, an old restaurant with a large veranda between lush groves, serves the most authentic versions of traditional dishes to be found anywhere on the island. The roast goat stuffed with rice and liver, slowly baked in a wood-fired oven, is one of the local cuisine’s most emblematic recipes. The relaxed, laid-back and highly sociable atmosphere at Ino brings backs memories of 90s-era summers.
From one end to the other, Tilos is undoubtedly an alternative-style island, uncompromising and still standing aside from the wider changes brought about by the tourism industry. The essence of this unconventional island is captured at Ino, a superb little bar at Livadia. Situated against the shoreline, its relaxed, laid-back and highly sociable atmosphere brings backs memories of more innocent 90s-era summers. Mobile phones are typically put away here and face-to- face socialising and rock music, played rather loud on the speakers, prevail. The nameless bar at Mikro Horio opens nightly at 11pm. Its yellow lights cast a mysterious glow on the empty surrounding houses.
The bar at Mikro Horio
The bar at Mikro Horio, a village abandoned from 1940, may not have a name but it is undoubtedly one of the most distinctive spots on Tilos. The bar, nestled between abandoned, dilapidated houses, is a wonderful retreat with a view of an eerily fascinating part of the Dodecanese. This nameless bar opens nightly at 11pm, its yellow light casting a mysterious glow on the empty surrounding houses. If on the island without a vehicle, a bus service is provided to and fro the bar by its management and routes run
regularly until 5am on Fridays and Saturdays.
Read also:
First time Tilos – The best sites on this remote island in the South Aegean
Symi: Dodecanese island resembling the Italian Riviera
8 stand out villages of Rhodes, the largest island of the Dodecanese
