Where to Stay, Shop & Nightlife
As one of Greece’s most famous and highly visited islands, flooded annually by a broad mix of visitors from around the world, Santorini is commonly known for its many beauties. Its caldera, the stunning cliffs covered in sugarcube houses, the red and black sand beaches, its high-end restaurant scene and its fascinating archaeology and history.
Yet there are certain places and aspects to this island that most tourists, especially those staying for the space of a few days or a week, never get to learn about. In this article we introduce you to six perspectives on this stunning island. They will amp your knowledge, deepen your understanding and whet your appetite for exploration so you can appreciate it even more.
01
Learn the History of the ‘Yposkafa’ Cave Homes
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Today they’ve been transformed into luxurious accommodations. With dreamy swimming pools and outlandish views that evoke awe and romance, they are highly coveted. But originally, Santorini’s ‘cave homes’ were constructed as dwellings for menial workers who couldn’t afford better living.
Meaning ‘dug into a rock,’ the ‘yposkafa’ homes were initially constructed as humble dwellings by the impoverished sailors and laborers of Oia. These cave houses, hewn from the volcanic pumice that blankets the island, offered an affordable alternative to traditional housing. Lacking wood, the residents created vaulted roofs from a mixture of volcanic ash and lime. This resulted in a sturdy mortar with excellent insulating properties. These subterranean homes stayed cool in the summer and warm in the winter.
Contrasting sharply with the grand neoclassical mansions of wealthy sea captains, yposkafa homes were modest and tucked away. In Oia, the architectural style of these cave houses followed the natural contours of the caldera, creating a harmonious blend with the stunning surroundings. Yposkafa constructions are found throughout Santorini. They reflect the island’s rich maritime history and its strategic importance as a shipping hub in the Mediterranean until the early 20th century.
02
Time Travel in Thirasia
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A short expedition to Thirasia, a tiny island in the volcanic island group of Santorini, lets you gaze upon the natural wonder of the main island. It also offers the feel-good experience of seeing what many describe as how Santorini was before it was hit by tourism. A 10-minute boat trip from Ammoudi, Thirasia is a stark contrast to its glitzy sister. It is undeveloped and doesn’t have the chic boutiques and swish hotels that exist in abundance across the water. Rather, it stars abandoned villages, spectacular caldera views, secret swimming spots and low-key dining at waterside tavernas.
Just one road connects the five villages on the island and Manolas, the capital, stands at the top of 270 steps on the caldera rim. Here you can relish in a panoramic vista across to Oia. Take the winding road to the top, to Mt Profitis Ilias chapel for one of the best sunset views in the archipelago. You may love that you’ll probably have only the local goats to share it with.
03
Get a Higher Perspective at Medieval Emporio
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Twelve kilometers from Fira and near to the black beach of Perissa is the scenic medieval village of Emporio. Trek up to its castle to enjoy a fantastic view. On the foothills of Mt Profitis Ilias, the Kasteli was one of the five fortified castles of the Venetian era. It is home to a labyrinth of narrow alleys, dead ends and staircases stacked cheek-by-jowl.
Soaring above the village is the church of Panagia Mesani with a magnificent bell tower. A little way out of the village, on Gavrilos hill, are a group of 19th century windmills. Come here to take in sublime views across the water.
04
Bite Into the Island’s Culinary Roots
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Since the 1980’s Santorini has led a Greece-wide movement to return to traditional techniques and flavors. By now it has become one of the world’s absolute gastronomic destinations. Globally, it is acknowledged for its many multi-starred and awarded restaurants. However, these gourmet establishments rely on ingredients born out of years of hardship and isolation.
Fava has been grown on the island for over 3,500 years, and the yellow-colored pea Lathyrus Clymenum is exclusive to Santorini and neighboring Anafi. The mineral-rich soils help to lend a sweeter flavor and a softer texture.
The tomato arrived at the beginning of the 19th century and was the main source of income until the 1950’s, with 14 canning factories in use at the height of production. The variety that prospered is in fact tiny, the mere size of a cherry, and is renowned for its sweetness. An additional plus is that it gathers humidity from the air instead of the roots, which makes it exceptionally juicy and tasty.
Other unique products bequeathed by the island’s singular climate and geology include capers (commonly used to top fava or the Greek salad, but also added to other dishes for their salty, pungent flavor), sweet white aubergines, and saffron. To get a glimpse of the importance of saffron, visit the archaeological site of Akrotiri to see the famous ‘Crocus Collectors’ fresco, which depicts female figures gathering the yellow wildflowers.
05
Escape the Crowds in Scenic Megalochori
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Discover the charm of Megalochori, a somewhat hidden, half-abandoned village in Santorini that’s brimming with history and culture. Meander through its labyrinth of winding alleys, adorned with whitewashed buildings and ornate churches. As it was once the heart of the island’s wine industry, many buildings here were once used as wine cellars. The central square, adorned by the Panagia ton Eisodion Church, is a welcoming hangout, with inviting tavernas and restaurants.
In Megalochori you can best immerse yourself in local traditions by sampling exquisite wines at renowned wineries like Venetsanos and Gavalas, or trying the authentic local cuisine in the village square. For a more active experience, walk to the pretty churches and make sure you visit the captivating Lost Atlantis Experience Museum, with its interactive exhibits and 9D cinema. Also not to be missed is the sight of the impressive Megalochori bell tower, part of the Virgin Mary Church. This ancient six-bell tower rises above cobbled streets, framed by whitewashed walls, creating one of Santorini’s most picturesque spots for a great photo op.
06
Explore a Unique Winemaking Tradition
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Winemaking on Santorini is ancient; findings from the Bronze Age city of Akrotiri suggest that vineyards were cultivated since the 17th century BC. Fortuitously, its vines, some 400 years old, remained unharmed by the normally devastating phylloxera louse, which could not survive in the harsh volcanic soil.
The vines are not trellised but rather trained in the shape of a basket, called a ‘kouloura’. This is done to protect them from strong winds and to preserve precious humidity. The four most important native grape varieties of the island are the white Aidini, Assyrtiko, Athiri and the red Mandilaria. Over 20 wineries, many with spectacular interiors and views, offer tasting menus throughout the island. If you are in Santorini around the end of August, it is possible to see the harvest in process.
07
Visit the Lighthouse of Akrotiri
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Built by a French company in 1892, the Akrotiri Lighthouse is one of Greece’s earliest lighthouses. Initially petrol-powered and manually operated, it was electrified in 1893. It paused its operation during World War II and was renovated by the Greek Navy in 1945.
Situated on Santorini’s southwestern tip, the lighthouse is a place where you can take in outstanding views of the Aegean Sea, dramatic cliffs, and other-worldly sunsets. Its white tower, contrasting against the blue sky and the volcanic landscape, stands above a former warden’s residence. The lighthouse remains functional, emitting light every 10 seconds. Located five kilometers from Akrotiri village and a short drive from Fira, it’s best accessed by car or taxi.