Anafi is a tranquil Cycladic Island with only 270 full-time residents. The medieval town of Chora, with its narrow alleys and vaulted churches, rises 260 meters above the sea and not so long ago accessible only by a mule trail but recently it finally has a proper road. The town is the only settlement of note on the island, but other small hamlets have formed at the port and Kleisidi. Visitors to Anafi can climb to the top of Kalamos, the second largest limestone monolith in the Mediterranean, and explore the ‘Dragonhouse’ cave, reachable only by a path. Kleisidi offers a small beach and a handful of tavernas for those seeking a peaceful getaway.
Chora
With only 270 full time residents, the Chora can lay claim to being one of the last truly unspoilt Cycladic towns. Densely built, the settlement dates back to medieval times and the houses are mainly barrel-roofed single rooms. Narrow alleys traverse every corner until they reach the remains of a long-lost Venetian Castle, the original core of the town. Pedestrianised and calm, Chora rises 260 metres above the sea, reached by the old mule trail, or more prosaically nowadays by the EU funded asphalt road. There are many churches within the walls, mostly single roomed and vaulted; Agios Nikolaos is the most important with an icon dating back to 12612.
Out of town
Chora is the only village of note on the island, but tiny settlements have formed at the port and at Kleisidi.
In older days, apart from the homes in Chora there were also themonias, autonomous smallholdings with threshing floors, walled compounds for the animals, outdoor ovens, and single rooms to live in. The island is dominated by Kalamos, the huge limestone rock on its own peninsular at the eastern end of Anafi.
Agios Nikolaos
Known as Gialos to the locals, Agios Nikolaos is a tiny sleepy village and the main port of Anafi. It is on the south coast of the island at the foot of a steep cliff and it is named after a chapel nearby. Uninhabited in winter, the village is dwarfed by the giant ferries that dock here. There are a few rooms to rent, a couple of tavernas, and a handful of shops. There is a nice sandy beach with clear waters and boats leave from here to Roukounas, Megas Potamos, Kleisidi, Katsouni, and Monastiri beaches.
Kalamos
Looming at the eastern tip of the island is the limestone Monolith of Kalamos, the second largest in the Mediterranean after the Rock of Gibraltar and the undoubted jewel of the island. Home to rare birds and plants it is protected under the Natura 2000 programme, contrary to the opinion of Joseph Pitton de Tournefort, botanist to the French court who declared in 1700 that it was ‘One of the most appalling rocks in the world.’
Today, the highlight of many visitors stay in Anafi is the climb to the top to the Monastery of Panagia Kalamiotissa. It can be extremely windy and a weather phenomenon means it is often cloudy even on otherwise sunny days, so hikers should come prepared.
On the northern side of Kalamos is the Drakondospiti, the Dragonhouse, a cave reachable only by a path and inaccessible by the sea which may have meant it was inhabited in Medieval times as a shelter from raiders. There is an impressive 11 metre entrance, while inside the cavern green copper deposits and nascent stalactites can be found. Locals say that if you venture far enough into the cave you will exit at another smaller cave on the other side of the rock.
Kleisidi
A small settlement has grown around the beach at Kleisidi. Little more than a clutch of rooms to rent and a couple of tavernas, it is ideal for those who do not want to stay in Chora. Just opposite are the islets of Ftena, Makra and Pachia which are included on some round the island boat tours.
Read also:
Piso Livadi: A small, peaceful seaside village in Paros, with excellent food
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