Whilst the postcard perfect Chora is the main star, there are other destinations around the island that are worth making a detour for and on such a small island nearly all are accessible on foot or by the good bus network. Sometimes, it can pay to follow your nose in this harsh landscape; finding an olive tree under which to picnic on fresh pies from the bakery, a rocky headland with views to Serifos, Sifnos, Paros, and Antiparos, or a perfect inlet to cool off after an afternoon hike.
Aspropountas Lighthouse
Soaring 58 metres above the sea and built in 1919, the lighthouse of Aspropountas is on a rocky outcrop on the southwest coast near to Livadaki beach. For over a hundred years it has served as a beacon for sailors and the whitewashed tower can be seen from 20 nautical miles away. It can be reached on an hour long walk from Ano Meria.
Agkali
A tiny settlement has built up around one of the best beaches on the island with rooms to rent, hotels, tavernas and a minimarket. In the Bay of Vathi, the wide unorganised sandy beach is protected by deep cliffs and is ideal for families. It is reached by a paved road from Ano Meria that is serviced by a bus route and there are footpaths southeast to Fira and southwest to Galyfos. There are also water taxis to Agios Nikolaos and Livadaki.
Chrysospilia
A unique natural phenomenon, Chrysospilia, golden cave, is on the north-eastern side of the island about 30 metres above sea level. There are several chambers stretching 300 metres with the second being particularly impressive with vivid iron oxide stained stalactite formations.
However, apart from its natural beauty, the cave is remarkable for over 400 ancient names graffitied on its walls and ceilings. Dating back to the 4th century BC, and predominantly male, they are thought to have belonged to some coming-of-age ceremony. The cave is only accessible by sea but it is currently closed as archaeological excavations continue.
Karavostasis
The dusty little port area is rather underwhelming arrival point on the island. There are a few taverns, hotels and rooms to rent but it is far better to stay in the enigmatic Chora. The main island road that runs along the spine of the island leading to Chora and Ano Meria starts at the harbour, as does the coastal road to Livadi passing the southern beaches.
There is a regular bus service to and from Chora and the bus will always meet the ferry whatever the time. Boats also leave the harbour for further beaches and island tours.
Georgitsi Cave
Near to Karavostasis on the southeast coast, the cave is only accessible by sea and it is one of the better scuba diving and snorkelling sites in the area with intense cerulean blue waters. Boat tours of the island often stop here for a swim.
Livadi and Petousis
The only other settlements of any size are found in the southeast of the island and are connected by a 3 kilometre dirt trail. A collection of scattered smallholdings and agricultural buildings, there is little of note apart from the campsite near the sea at Livadi.
Castelos
On a rocky promontory east of Agios Georgios, archaeological excavations have uncovered the remains of a small settlement dating back to circa 2500 BC. The views across to neighbouring islands are impressive.
Read also:
Folegandros: Cycladic Island, Free of Extravagance
Folegandros, ‘an island you always return to’
