Snugly wrapped in the winter season’s deep, vibrant shades, Zagori’s lush and scenic villages are the perfect place to escape to and delight in Greece’s nature and traditional charm at this time of year. Far from the monotony of urban life, these five glorious mountain villages in Epirus guarantee moments of vibrant beauty and calm, relaxing activities and fresh air.
Combining age-old, magnificently preserved stone architecture and rich mountainous landscapes, these places also embody the warm hospitality of Epirus, with wonderful old cafes, guesthouses, boutique hotels and tavernas. The area is idyllic year-round, but it is in autumn and winter that it becomes especially seductive and rewarding to discover. Although there are 46 settlements in this area of Greece, we have selected our five favorite places to explore.
How to Get There from Athens
by car (5.5hrs to Ioannina):
- Athens-Lamia-Trikala-Ioannina highway
- additional 45min to villages
- best for village hopping
by bus (6hrs to Ioannina):
- Athens Kifissos station to Ioannina
- local buses to villages
- limited village service
by air (fastest):
- 45min flight to ioannina
- then rent car/taxi/bus
Tip: Most flexible option is flying to Ioannina and renting a car, especially if time is limited.
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Lying beneath the rocky outcrops of Mt Tymfi, Papigo is the iconic village of Zagori, oozing with alpine charm. Shrouded in clouds and cloaked in wintry shades, this village, rumored to have been the secret refuge of Ali Pasha, remains enchanting. Here, Ali would slip away to the Rogovos Pools, natural limestone “pools” that have drawn visitors for centuries with their cool waters. Carved over millennia, this small canyon with its limestone rock formations has become emblematic of Papigo and the wider Zagori area, offering refreshing stops for travelers, even in winter.
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Perched at the edge of the Vikos Gorge, Monodendri stands out for two main attractions: its pies and its wine. While pies are a staple throughout Epirus, Monodendri takes them to another level with innovative fillings, from greens and meats to cheeses, offering flavors not found elsewhere. Named after a tree struck by lightning, Monodendri was the birthplace of the Rizari brothers, who amassed great wealth in the Ottoman Empire and founded a famous weaving school here in 1835. Visitors should explore the Monastery of Agia Paraskevi at the cliff’s edge and, if up for it, take a short hike into the gorge.
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A tranquil retreat built almost entirely of stone, Kapesovo is roughly 43 kilometers from Ioannina. Known for its stone architecture, Kapesovo is home to the Church of Agios Nikolaos, built in 1793, and the Paschaleios School, where one of the three surviving copies of Rigas Feraios’ Charta is displayed. Situated near the Vikos Gorge, visitors can take a path to nearby Vradeto, with its unique stone staircase that has achieved international fame. Traditional, authentic, and steeped in history, Kapesovo captures the heart of Zagori with its blend of autumnal landscapes, historical sites, and architecture.
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Perhaps the best-preserved village in Zagori, Dilofo has withstood the wave of mass tourism. Recognized as a traditional settlement by the Ministry of Culture, its cobbled paths connect its lower, upper, and distant neighborhoods, while its tall mansions showcase the area’s rich past. A highlight is the Makropoulos mansion, a 13.5-meter-high house rumored to have been built to give its lady a view of her hometown, Koukouli. Here, one can also find the Church of the Dormition of the Virgin, built in 1850, along with numerous smaller chapels and monasteries.
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The largest of the Zagori villages, Tsepelovo is home to 500 residents and saw a period of prosperity in the 19th century, evident in its grand mansions and the iconic Church of Agios Nikolaos, built in 1704. This church is known for its intricate wood-carved iconostasis and rare iconography, fully restored thanks to patron Sophia Douma-Embirikos. Visitors can also see the grave of poet Ioannis Vilaras, who took refuge here from Ali Pasha, and nearby is the Monastery of Agios Ioannis Rogovou, which served as a university in the early 1800s before Greece’s independence.
