Paros is known all around the globe for its lovely beaches and great night life. And while both are true for this Cycladic island, there’s more to it than that. It also has some mountainous villages with great food, traditional architecture, hospitable people, and with a special history.

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The village Lefkes is probably the most beautiful among them. 11 km from Paroikia, Lefkes was the island’s first capital. The village was probably founded in the 15th century, and according to the most dominant theory, its first residents were from Crete. Together with the locals, they created the settlement on the hill. After all, at the time, the priority was to be protected from pirates and at the same time have access to the sea. There are still some remnants from that time in the village, like some of the oldest watermills in the Cyclades, and many churches.

One church that stands out is that of Agia Triada, a church widely considered the second most majestic church on the island, after the church of Panagia Ekatontapyliani. It was completed in 1835, with two marble bell towers, a great example of what the skilled craftsmen of the Cyclades could built. The altar is also marble, a great work by a marble sculptor from Tinos.

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In Lefkes, you should sit at one of the cafés and enjoy the view; the village is amphitheatrically built, so, depending on where you are, you can see either the Aegean sea and neighbouring Naxos, or the village and its surroundings.

You should also walk around the village and get lost in its alleys with the traditional houses, great examples of traditional folk architecture that combines Cycladic and neoclassical elements, with their lovely white walls, the bougainvillea trees and the many flowers. Stop at one of the many little shops selling decorative objects, jewellery, souvenirs, ceramics etc, all made with great care and passion.

Karavola

In terms of entertainment in the village, the highlight takes place in August and is one of the most well-known festivals in Paros: Karavola. It takes place the first weekend after the 15th of August. The festivities last till early in the morning, and the great musicians from Paros and karavoles (escargots with garlic dip), the signature dish, are the main protagonists of the festival. They also chickpea soup as well as other dishes, and, of course, a lot of wine. For the two years of the pandemic the festival was cancelled, let’s hope that this year it will take place again.

The Byzantine trail

The most famous trail in Paros is the one between Lefkes and Prodromos. Its biggest part is downhill, covered in marble slates from Paros, and its history starts during the Byzantine period, at around 1.000 A.D. It takes about an hour to walk.

The trail goes through vineyards and olive groves, unfortunately, last summer a fire left its marks to part of the trail.

Where to eat

One of the reasons tourists and locals from Paros, visit Lefkes is its great food. Below are some good choices for food. Please beware that many of the restaurants in the village only open after Easter.

Aranto

For creative recipes with great materials.

Klarinos

For juicy meat with a great view.

Kafenio tis Marigos

For lovely deserts, homemade lemonade and traditional décor.

Café Ramnos

For breakfast, crepes and cocktails.

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