Ermioni, located just a short distance from Nafplio and located close to renowned cosmopolitan resorts like Porto Heli, Spetses, and Hydra, may not be the first place that comes to mind when planning a vacation in the area. However, this charming coastal town in the southeast of Argolis, built on the beautiful peninsula of the same name, is worth considering for a visit. With a population of 2,505 (according to the 2011 census) and a history dating back to ancient times, Ermioni has much to offer.
In recent years, Ermioni has successfully started attracting more and more visitors and now offers a range of accommodation, dining, and entertainment options. Despite its modernization, the town has managed to maintain its traditional character and the charm of a small town. Visitors can relax on its sandy beaches or enjoy the vibrant nightlife. And with its natural beauty and close proximity to Athens, Ermioni is easily accessible for a day trip or longer stay.
It is believed to have been founded by Dryopes, a group of proto-Greek tribes who migrated from central Greece during a period of unrest. Ermioni is mentioned in the Iliad as an ally of the Achaeans, so it was certainly already established in Argolida by 1300 BC. After the fall of the great Mycenaean centers in the Peloponnese (1100 BC), it became part of Argos but managed to retain some autonomy. It regained independence in the 7th century BC and remained a loyal ally of Sparta until the Roman conquest in 146 BC.
During Roman and early Byzantine times, Ermioni prospered due to its production and trade of the famous purpurine dye, made from shellfish. However, this period of prosperity ended in the 12th century when the area was conquered by the Franks and underwent significant population changes, including the mass settlement of Epirot Arvanites, which led to the renaming of the region as Kastri. Around 1750, the city experienced a revival, which was reflected in the events of the Greek War of Independence in 1821, when the 3rd National Assembly met here in 1827. In the 20th century, the population of Ermioni saw several increases, but it has reached levels last seen in 1896 due to tourism and the cultivation of excellent quality grapes for wine.
To visit Ermioni, you can drive from Athens, which is approximately 169 kilometers away and takes about 2.5 hours. Alternatively, you can fly to the Piraeus and then travel to Ermioni via Poros, Hydra, and Spetses, which takes about 2 hours. During the summer, Ermioni offers many options for swimming, with nearby beaches such as Kouverta (with dark sand) or Lepitsa, a picturesque cove with vodka clear waters. However, Ermioni is also a charming town to walk around in any season, with its narrow streets, traditional houses, and several landmarks such as the Church of Agios Georgios and the Archaeological Museum. The town also has a vibrant cultural life, with events such as the Ermioni Literary Festival and the Ermioni Festival of Ancient Drama.
For those who like a good walk there is a lovely route to the pine-covered cape of Bisti, opposite Ydra and the island of Dokos. It is a beautiful walk, which, in addition to the scenery, will also introduce you to the ancient past of the region, as here was the temple of Sophia of Athens, as well as shrines dedicated to Poseidon, Helios, and Demeter. At the “tip” of the peninsula, at the so-called Poseidonio, you will see the white mill of the Mitsaios family, a family that played a significant role in the Revolution of 1821.
Another lovely walk is to the picturesque valley of Katafyki, located in the direction of the neighboring village of Fournoi. The walk takes about half an hour and is filled with lush vegetation, running streams, and a historic bridge surrounded by pine trees. Along the way, you will pass by the Church of the Assumption of Mary, where you can admire the murals of the Cretan School. Finally, be sure to visit the Monastery of Zoodochos Pigi, located a short distance away, which is home to the miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary and is a popular place of pilgrimage for Orthodox Christians.
Ermioni has a range of accommodation options to suit different budgets, from Airbnb rentals to luxury hotels like the Grand Bleu Apartments & Villas, which are located just a mile from the harbor with beautiful sea views. The Panzion Zoé is also located in a quiet neighborhood and has a shared terrace with panoramic views.
The town of Ermioni has many popular coffee shops and bars in the Mandraki area, which is known for its nightlife and traditional character. The Mandraki harbor gets quite buzzy and features popular establishments like the “Casa Dei,” known for its mozzarella balls, the “En Lefko,” a popular hangout, and the “Yacht Café Ermioni,” located in a renovated traditional house.
There are also many options for food. The “Yanosis” at the harbor has been around since 1918 and specializes in grilled foods and Greek cuisine, while the “Spyrantras” is a regular choice for lovers of fresh seafood. It is worth taking a walk to “Maria’s,” a 53-year-old café with idiosyncratic eatery, where you can enjoy excellent meze and fantastic galaktoboureko.
The Giala-giala tradition in Ermioni during the days of the Theophania (Epiphany)
If you have the chance to visit Ermioni during the days of the Epiphany, you shouldn’t miss the opportunity to see the local tradition of Giala-giala up close. As a rule, everything begins the day before the Theophania, when the youths of the town go to the harbor and decorate the boats with palm and fig leaves. It’s from these that they will dive to retrieve the cross and the icon of the Panagia.
On the morning of the ‘Photon‘, the young people walk around the town dressed in naval uniforms, singing “giala-giala” and visiting houses in the town, where the residents welcome them with wishes and treats. Custom dictates they return to the harbour and board the decorated boats, rocking them back and forth with force as they remove their uniforms and dive into the cold sea.
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