The verdant Greek village called the Greek “capital of water”

The village became part of Greece in 1881. A big part of its population migrated within the country, or immigrated abroad, a common occurrence in many of the country’s mountainous regions, something that resulted in the existence of many descendants of Theodoriana residents abroad, many of which still visit, especially during the summer.

Where to stay

If you want to spend a few days in Theodoriana, Ventista Guesthouse (a traditional two-storey house that has been renovated), in the centre of the village, is open all year round and can host around 5 to 7 people. They also organise excursions to the surrounding sights for their guests. Another small guesthouse (4 rooms) with an amazing view is Panorama, near the village, at the refuge in the location Stavros. Aloni guesthouse is also a great choice with spacious rooms, but it’s only open between May and October.

Where to go for a coffee or for food

Theodoriana offers a few, but all of them great, options both for food and coffee. To name some, the coffee shop Tzouvaras is perfect for coffee, backgammon and tsipouro (traditional pomace raki), while they also have a grill. For grilled meats and large skewers, go to the tavern O Zatzalos. While if you want to have fish, you must go to Petrino tou Aheloou, in the neighbouring village Skarpari (about 4 km to the east), there you can also fish the trout yourself, since the restaurant has its own trout farm.

5 things worth doing if you’re in Theodoriana

Being a “capital of water” means that Theodoriana is mostly famous for its impressive waterfalls. However, these are not the only waterfalls around, the area has many small rivers and springs.

See the famed Souda waterfalls

The village’s trademark, but also an attraction for thousands of visitors, the Souda waterfalls are one of the largest waterfalls in Greece, since the waters of river Aspri Gkoura (a tributary of Aheloos river) fall from 25 m high, after they separate in two streams.

You can reach them starting at the square, following the marked path inside the forest. The route has wooden bridges, steps, as well as a rail in the harder spots, it crosses a gorgeous mountainous landscape, and is suitable even for children. It takes about 50 minutes to walk to the waterfalls, while you can drive part of the route.

Visit the Panagia Monastery

At the northern part of the village, after the last houses, you’ll come across a monastery dedicated to the birth of Virgin Mary (celebrated on September 8^th), in a stunning location, very close to the river Gkoura (another tributary of Aheloos). It dates back to 1793 and has a long history: during the Ottoman rule it operated as a school, while during the German rule it sheltered resistance fighters.

Stop at the old watermill

Built in 1918, as part of the Agios Georgios (the patron saint of the village) church estate, it was in operation until 1980. Now, the old stone building is one of the sights of Theodoriana, standing among the plane trees, at the location Smixi, where the village’s two rivers – Gkouras and Mouzaki – meet.

Climb to Stavros

Located above the village, at 1,390 m, where the refuge with the Panorama guesthouse is located – apart from the guesthouse there is also a café and tavern there – overlooking the Tzoumerka. The name Stavros (it means cross) comes from the wooden cross that Cosmas of Aetolia (a Greek Orthodox monk that has been proclaimed a saint), passing through the area, put up there in 1777.

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A battle between the Greeks and the Turks took place in Stavros, during the 1821 Greek Independence War, with Gogos Bakolas and his 500 men managing to contain an army four times their size (August 1821), forcing them to return to Ioannina, instead of crossing to central Greece. In 1883, the villagers barricaded themselves against the gendarmerie and the Antonopoulos clan from Arta, in the Stavros location, because the Antonopoulos clan had bought from the Turkish, in 1881, a piece of land, on the Kostilata valley, that was crucial for cattle farming, and had forbidden the locals to graze their cattle there. The events of that time have been recorded in famous folk songs. The spring of the same name is also located in Kostilata, at a 1,450 m altitude.

Stavros has an amazing view of Aheloos river and of the Tzoumerka villages, while in the winter it gets a lot of snow (in 2005 it had 6 metres of snow, a number that remains a record still), and, as a result it turns into a park for winter activities.

Hike (but be very careful) in the Papahristou gorge

The locals also call it “Mark’s creek”, as according to tradition Markos Botsaris took refuge there after the fall of Souli. To get there, you start at the entrance of Theodoriana, coming from Arta – you’ll see signs. Then you take a steep trail, well-marked with signs, that crosses a gorgeous but quite dense fir forest, by the Papahristou creek. You need to be extra careful to not get lost, and so we recommend visiting the gorge with a local who is familiar with the area.

The result will reward you, especially when you reach the smaller waterfalls and the natural pools they form. In the summer, the bravest hikes, swim in the freezing mountain waters, completing the experience in this small paradise.

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