This is a place to enjoy complete autonomy, a haven of tranquility for anyone not seduced by noisy revelry or a highly Instagrammed existence. It offers a sense of safety, close contact with nature and a return to innocence. It’s not by chance that the island is considered to be a utopia for free campers and hermits from all over the world, who have left everything behind to live permanently in huts and makeshift shelters on remote beaches.
There are four settlements in Gavdos, Kastri, Ambelos, and Vatsiana, where around 150 permanent residents live, at last count. Today, new infastructure is being built along the island’s coasts due to the sharp rise in tourism with primarily an increased demand for accommodation during the long summers.
Kastri is the capital of the island and the seat of the Municipality, where you will find rooms to let, the island’s Rural Clinic and a bakery-pastry shop. The small village of Vatsiana has old stone-built houses, most of which are in shambles; today, very few of them are inhabited. It’s well worth visiting the Folklore Museum, established by the island’s vicar, Manolis Bikogiannakis. Once Ambelos was one of Gavdos’ largest and most picturesque villages, with numerous vineyards but today most of it is desolate.
The island is part of the NATURA 2000 Network and is protected by Greek and European legislation, while a programme has been implemented to protect the habitat of the coastal sand dunes and the Juniperus species. Typically, Gavdos and neighbouring Gavdopoula are a stopover for migratory birds on their long journey from Africa to Europe and vice versa, as well as a refuge for the endangered Monachus seal and Caretta Caretta turtle. Pine trees, sea cedars, gum rockrose and Junipers embellish the island, while heather, oregano and wild thyme spread their fragrances. The island’s environmental and archaeological importance draws a great array of scientists and students annually.
The trails take you on enchanting tours of the island, from where you can admire nature in all its glory and drink up endless sea views. A multitude of artifacts reveal that the island was inhabited from prehistory and it is identified with Ogygia, the place where the nymph Calypso kept Odysseus for seven years on his return to Ithaca from Troy.
Things to Do
Faros:
The faros (lighthouse), which dominates a hill near Ambelos, was built in 1880 and was one of the largest in the Mediterranean. During World War II it was bombed and destroyed. Since being reconstructed it has become once again the island’s landmark attraction, with a photography museum and café inside that look out to the sea and a spectacular sunset. When it was operational, its light was visible for 42 miles and was second only to the San Juan of Salvamento Lighthouse in Tierra Del Fuego in Argentina. It was rotatable so it could be seen from all sides of Gavdos and was powered by oil and fuse.
Folklore Museum: The museum is in Metochi, Sgoudiana near the Gavdos Gulf and displays traditional arts and crafts and tools of various trades, such as agricultural tools as well as woven textiles, sheets and towels with many homemade embroideries and all kinds of traditional household utensils, most of them made of clay, such as cups, spoons, ladles and teapots (Tel. +30 2823 042458)
Chaples and ancient ruins: There are scattered ruins of ancient settlements all over the island, and many important finds have been unearthed. In addition to the excavations, you can admire 18 small churches across the island, which add a singular aesthetic to the landscape. The Aghia Triada (Holy Trinity) is the island’s Metropolis, located in Kastri.
Hiking: Gavdos is ideal for hiking, with paths graded from easy to difficult and is a favourite destination for the Hiking Clubs of Crete. The Municipality of Gavdos, in cooperation with the Forestry Department of Chania, makes an effort to maintain the trails, which are a key aspect of outdoor recreation here.
Where to Stay
Kalypso Apartments. The rooms are comfortable and fully equipped with a kitchenette. (Kastri, tel. 694 510 0393).
Gavdos Princess: Has a restaurant and self-catering accommodation. The nearest beach, restaurants, and mini-markets are three kilometres away. A free shuttle service is available (Kastri, tel. 2823 041181).
Consolas Gavdos Studios. All rooms are fully equipped and have a terrace. Car rental service is available (Sarakiniko, tel. 210 324 1751).
Villa Kastri: The rooms have a balcony or terrace with nice sea and city views and are fully equipped. The property provides a car rental service. (Kastri, tel. 697 196 2169).
