Known as the “Bride of the Thermaic Gulf” to romantics and the “co-capital” to pragmatist Greeks, Thessaloniki bears the name of Alexander the Great’s wife and sister with pride. This city, founded in 315 BC, defies simple categorization.
How can one capture the unique energy of Greece’s second-largest metropolis, now emerging as one of Europe’s most dynamic urban centers? Or convey the rhythm of a cosmopolitan hub that cherishes its millennia-old heritage while embracing global trends? Thessaloniki is a destination that enchants travelers, whether they come for an experience-packed city break or a longer stay that never seems quite long enough.
Why Go In The Fall
A journey to ever-relevant Thessaloniki is never just an escape or a change of scenery. It’s a multifaceted experience in a city that stands proudly among Europe’s most captivating capitals. Particularly atmospheric in autumn, having just wrapped up its political and business showcase at the Thessaloniki International Fair, the city turns its attention to cultural events. This year, it welcomes the 59th Dimitria Festival, an annual autumn celebration of culture that spans most of October. With an even richer program this year, visitors can expect a diverse agenda including concerts at the Megaron Concert Hall and the Rotunda, classical music, opera for adults and children, theater music, dance, and educational workshops.
Throughout October, the Historical Archive of Refugee Hellenism will present over 30 photographs from its collections in an open photography exhibition titled “Our Beach” at Aretsou Beach in Kalamaria, as part of the Para Thin’ Alos 2024 festival’s visual arts events. The last week of the month brings the 4th Panhellenic Amateur Theater Festival of Thermaikos, held at the Kappa 2000 theater on Peraia beach, featuring six theater groups from various Greek cities. Those who choose Thessaloniki for the October 28th long weekend can witness the impressive traditional military parade and enjoy free admission to the city’s museums, archaeological sites, and monuments on October 28-29.
What to Do
Thessaloniki’s love for the arts is evident not only in its domestic and international festivals and various artistic expressions but also in its fascinating museums and no fewer than 15 UNESCO World Heritage monuments. The 11 halls of the Museum of Byzantine Culture will transport you to the glorious era of the Byzantine Empire, revealing all aspects of private and public life of the period through rich collections of archaeological objects, relics, and works of art.
The War Museum presents the modern and contemporary history of our country, while the Archaeological Museum unfolds the entire history of Macedonia through masterful works of art and findings. At the Macedonian Museum of Contemporary Art – MOMus, you’ll admire works from the Iolas, Xydis, and Apergis collections among contemporary artistic trends from abroad and Greece. Two related and equally interesting cultural institutions will bring you to the Old Port and Pier A, a wonderful walk in any case. There, at the Museum of Photography, you’ll see unique images of a constantly changing city and get to know older and contemporary trends in the art of photography through a vast collection covering the period 1890-2015, while at the Cinema Museum, the magical world of Greek cinema comes to life.
Thessaloniki’s emblematic monuments, scattered throughout the city, will enrich your walks between shopping streets, the waterfront, and up-and-coming entertainment neighborhoods with a historical dimension. Near Saint Demetrios, the city’s most important church worth a visit not only because it celebrates this month but also because it’s a monument of particular importance as the martyrdom site of Thessaloniki’s patron saint, the city’s Roman past comes alive in the ruins of the baths, square, and a gallery of the Roman Agora, dating back to the 2nd century AD. Also impressive is the nearby Kamara or Arch of Galerius, bearing the honorary name of a Roman emperor and detailed decorative reliefs from his victorious campaign against the Persians in the early 4th century AD. A few meters to the north, another recognizable landmark, the massive Rotunda from the same period, is preserved in excellent condition due to its conversion into a Christian church and is famous for its beautiful mosaics.
Thessaloniki’s shopping scene is also a major draw, where you can indulge in retail therapy along the three main parallel streets of Proxenou Koromila, Mitropoleos, and Tsimiski, but don’t miss their perpendicular alleys, which hide shops full of treasures. The famous covered markets are also a unique experience, such as Kapani Market, a true feast of flavors and aromas, where, following the locals’ example, you’ll drink Greek coffee at the corner traditional cafe Modigliani. Nearby, a stroll through the also covered Modiano Market, known to older generations as the “Central Food Market,” is the new must-stop on the list for foodies and non-foodies alike. The 75 stores housed in the fully renovated space, which still retains its historic architectural character, compose a unique kaleidoscope of culinary trends and proposals that has nothing to envy from similar markets abroad. After enjoying the vibrant atmosphere, you’ll stock up on select delicatessen products and indulge in one of the top sweet Thessaloniki temptations, the amazing syrupy sweets from Hatzis pastry shop.
Speaking of flavors and reaching the “food” chapter, the Bride of the Thermaic Gulf is emerging as a top, constantly evolving gastronomic destination, giving dedicated fans of its restaurants yet another reason for a trip full of culinary delights. From the simplest but cult flavors – sesame Thessaloniki koulouri, salep, legendary bougatsa – to fresh seafood and divine meats, no one leaves Thessaloniki disappointed – or thin. For top traditional bougatsa, head to Giannis, the excellent bougatsa shop on Mitropoleos Street, but also go up to Ano Poli for Bantis’ bougatsa, the absolutely delicious way to start a Thessaloniki Sunday. Try classic bougatsa with cream, cheese, spinach, and minced meat – always with handmade puff pastry and traditional, family recipes – but also the incredibly tasty bougatsa with plain phyllo. A trip to Thessaloniki is not complete without triangles from Panorama, so head to the historic Elenidis pastry shop and indulge without guilt in these incomparable syrupy sweets, made with handmade phyllo and fresh cream.
In the city where bougasan was born, the delicious hybrid of bougatsa-croissant, but also introduced us to the idea of tailor-made à la minute profiteroles, include the now-established Estrella and Choureal respectively in your itinerary. For top fish dining, among the spots worth knowing are O Psaras with almost a century of history and the also century-old Mavri Thalassa, for amazing meat and especially for the famous Thessaloniki soutzoukakia, book a table at the refined taverna Palia Athina that locals love and at Diagonios with its generous portions, which is also a timeless value, while for the ultimate home-cooked dishes and comfort food that speaks to your heart, Salonica at the Makedonia Palace hotel with the authentic dishes of award-winning executive chef Sotiris Evangelou and Duck Private Chefing with its warm, friendly atmosphere are the way to go.
Food in the Macedonian capital is always followed by entertainment, a concept synonymous with the way of life of a city that shows its extroverted face by partying until the early morning hours. You’ll discover this with a stroll through the famous Ladadika, a landmark for local night owls but also for those who come to Thessaloniki with the main goal of having fun in bars, clubs, wine bars, and taverns with live music. Between Katouni Street, known for its meze restaurants, the strong beats of Emporiou Square, the bars on Aigyptou Street, and the abundant cool and trendy spots in the historic neighborhood around Valaoritou Street, Thessaloniki’s energy at night proves unique.
As for walks that will give you unique images and become special memories, you just need to head from the elegant Aristotelous Square towards the White Tower, symbol of the city and part of the 15th-century fortifications, passing the imposing statue of Alexander the Great and the famous artistic work “Umbrellas” by the great sculptor George Zongolopoulos, to reach the sloping Garden of the Afternoon Sun, where you’ll enjoy exactly what its name suggests: the wonderful sunset that dresses the Thermaic Gulf in the warmest, golden colors.
Where to Stay
The unparalleled elegance and high-level five-star boutique hotel ON Residence accurately reflects and respectfully renders the historical identity of Thessaloniki, giving new life to an emblematic building of the city, a landmark and symbol of its cosmopolitan life for more than half a century, from 1926 to the mid-’90s. This is the historic landmark where a century ago the legendary “Olympos Naoussa” restaurant was housed, built 98 years ago based on plans by French architect Jacques Mosse, being a characteristic example of Thessaloniki’s interwar architecture, with references to the belle epoque and neoclassicism. The mansion on Nikis Street, which immediately shone with its personality and ultra-elegant decor as the city’s new jewel, soon stood out and was added to Thessaloniki’s architectural sights.
This dazzling building, which initially operated as a beer museum-tasting room, with two halls named Olympos and Naoussa – from the Olympos brewery and Naoussa ice factory that joined forces to create it – experienced times of glory and brilliance, being a hangout for celebrities, artists, and politicians until 1994 when it closed permanently.
Today, three decades later, it offers an incomparable hospitality experience, a real journey into the past of Thessaloniki, Greece, and Europe, where the fame of “Olympos Naoussa” reached. The revival of the architectural jewel of the past century was done with a focus on the balance between the timeless value of the classic and innovative design, inspired by its rich past but also the most contemporary aesthetic trends. Respect for the architectural heritage of such a recognizable landmark for Thessalonians, which has been declared a cultural heritage monument, is evident from the very name of the hotel first – its initials, ON, are a tribute to the name of the famous restaurant – and extends to the painstaking and meticulous revival process.
The result enjoyed by visitors who choose ON Residence for their stay in Thessaloniki is moving and impressive: from the preservation of the facade and the enhancement of its decorative elements, to the renewed classic – art deco style in the interior, which was enriched with discreet luxurious touches, and from the 1950s-inspired reception with velvet, wooden, and brass elements to the authentic floor tiles, impressive plaster reliefs, and elegant murals, everything contributes to a stay experience-ode to the most tasteful side of Thessaloniki.
In the 53 rooms – some with balconies – and 7 suites of three categories, the neoclassical design blends harmoniously with understated, quiet luxury. Ethereal, bright spaces, with soft, natural color tones that highlight the high-quality materials and bold designs on the carpets, include amenities such as Marshall speakers, Nespresso coffee makers, and 55-inch TVs. The spacious suites with enviable views add their own tone to the art of hospitality at ON Residence and are the pinnacle of eclectic elegance and absolute comfort. Special mention deserves the exquisite Olympos Sea Front Suite which from the sixth floor of the hotel enjoys unobstructed views of the Thermaic Gulf and the city’s perpetual movement while simultaneously being the epitome of sophisticated luxury and exquisite taste. With a large bedroom, living room with emerald touches, and two bathrooms, it can accommodate three people but can also be connected to a Deluxe Seafront Room to welcome larger families.
A unique experience is also the legendary cuisine of the new ‘Olympos Naoussa’ restaurant, which is reintroduced to the gastronomic scene of Thessaloniki and comes to continue in the most enjoyable way the history of the previous restaurant, which had been distinguished among the best worldwide. As the successor to that famous ‘Olympos Naoussa’ cuisine and today’s distinguished chef of the new restaurant, Dimitris Tasioulas approaches gastronomy through the prism of culture, marries tradition with excellent raw materials, and invites us to gastronomic encounters inspired by the historical events of the city of Thessaloniki.
The specialties that star daily in the kitchen of the ‘Olympos Naoussa’ restaurant – as well as the praiseworthy, real Greek breakfast with fresh, local ingredients from small producer networks and traditional recipes – carry memories from the past, but also an aftertaste of the future, and just like the now-vivid, historic space itself, tell visitors enchanted by Thessaloniki, stories from Greece, the Balkans, and the world. 🌳
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