Verdant slopes and carved stone villages, imposing mountains and babbling streams echoing clarinet melodies, enchanting endless vistas and rejuvenating tranquility, mansions and churches of architectural splendor, arched bridges hidden in lush vegetation. Above all, the artistry of Epirote (those coming from the Epirus region) master craftsmen, who left an indelible mark, giving unique character to the 46 villages comprising the renowned Zagorochoria, scattered across Tymfi, Mitsikeli, and Smolikas mountains in the heart of Epirus.
Here, the authentic beauty of the landscape captivates, dips in crystal-clear waters revitalize the body and cleanse the soul, silent hikes through dense forests and shady gorges feel like meditation, activities spike adrenaline and reveal nature’s grandeur, while hospitable locals share their finest stories as glasses of local tsipouro are generously refilled. Ultimately, Zagorochoria is the perfect place to hit “restart” on every level.
Why You Should Visit in September
September is one of the best times to experience the majestic and enchanting, still-verdant slopes of the Pindus Mountains. Even those unfamiliar with mountain landscapes will find an impressive range of activities or at least a captivating scenery far from the heat of the crowded beaches.
You can still take refreshing dips in river beaches and streams, natural pools carved by rushing waters, and emerald basins framed by waterfalls. Follow these swims with picnics in sprawling plane tree forests—experiences equally delightful as seaside bathing.
Hiking offers cool respite and mesmerizing vistas, while calm river waters invite even beginners to try activities like rafting, canoe-kayaking, and river trekking. For the more adventurous, there’s always canyoning, hot dogging, monografting, and Greece’s most spectacular Via Ferrata.
September also marks the start of mushroom hunting season. What could be more enchanting than wandering through chestnut, oak, and beech forests, searching under trees and shrubs to find, identify, and photograph various mushroom species—which you’ll later savor in your own culinary creations?
As for the renowned Epirote festivals, the Birth of the Virgin Mary on September 8th sparks traditional dances and local treats in villages like Papigo, Vradeto, Greveniti, Kastanonas, Kipoi, Makrino, and Miliotades. These celebrations offer a genuine taste of local culture, where visitors can immerse themselves in age-old customs, vibrant music, and mouth-watering regional specialties.
What to Do
Whether you have a few days or a week to spare, divide your time between the more renowned Western and Central Zagori and the less-traveled Eastern region. This enchanting corner of Greece offers a tapestry of architectural marvels, breathtaking natural beauty, exhilarating adventures, and a culinary scene that will tantalize your taste buds.
Begin your journey in Aristi, the western gateway to the Vikos Gorge, where traditional stone mansions stand sentinel over cobblestone streets. Meander through the well-developed Megalo Papigo, with its inviting cafes and artisanal shops, before ascending to Mikro Papigo, a launchpad for nature enthusiasts. The twin villages of Monodendri and Vitsa beckon with their harmonious blend of history and hospitality, while Dilofo, often hailed as Zagori’s crown jewel, boasts a square framed by awe-inspiring manor houses. For those seeking loftier pursuits, Kapesovo perches at 3,600 feet, overshadowed only by Vradeto, the highest of the Zagorochoria, accessible via an extraordinary 1,200-step stone staircase that’s a feat of engineering in itself. Don’t miss Tsepelovo, the largest village in the complex, or the wonderfully preserved and relatively unknown Dikorfo. Finally, make your way to Vovousa, dramatically split in two by the Aoos River, offering a glimpse into the raw beauty of the region.
As dusk falls, the villages come alive with the aroma of local delicacies wafting from tavernas clustered around plane tree-shaded squares. Indulge in the region’s famed pies, stuffed with wild greens and local cheeses, or savor slow-roasted lamb and goat dishes that melt off the bone. Pair your meal with tsipouro, the potent local spirit, and engage in lively conversation with the gregarious locals. Before departing, stock up on handmade preserves and spoon sweets, capturing the essence of Zagori’s abundant orchards and forests in every jar.
For the adventure-seekers, the crystal-clear waters of Voidomatis River offer an unexpected beach experience deep in the forest near the Papigo-Aristi bridge. Dive into the Ovires or Kolympithres, natural pools fed by the Rogovo stream near Megalo Papigo, where smooth boulders provide the perfect launching pad for cannonballs into the turquoise waters below. For a more secluded swim, trek to the triple cascades of Balta di Stringa near Iliochori, where a wooden platform offers a picturesque picnic spot post-dip.
Consult with Trekking Hellas Ioannina to tailor your outdoor pursuits to the season and water levels. Options abound: raft the rapids of Voidomatis, navigate the Rogovo Gorge while canyoning, or embark on a river trek along the Aoos. Mountain bikers and e-bike enthusiasts will find trails to suit all levels, while hikers can tackle the crown jewel of Zagori treks — the challenging traverse of the Vikos Gorge, a UNESCO Geopark marvel typically conquered from Monodendri to Vikos or vice versa.
No visit to Zagori is complete without marveling at the 92 stone bridges that span its rivers and ravines, each a testament to the region’s architectural prowess. Many of these arched wonders are easily accessible, standing proudly at village entrances or along well-trodden hiking paths. The single, double, and triple-arched marvels of Kleidonia, Kokkoros, Plakidas, Kontodimos, Petsionis, Misios, and Kovatsaina bridges offer photo opportunities that will fill your Instagram feed and your memories for years to come. Crossing these centuries-old structures is not just a physical journey, but a step back in time to when these bridges were lifelines connecting the isolated mountain communities of Epirus.
Where to Stay
Nestled in the picturesque village of Aristi, perched at an altitude of 2,130 feet with breathtaking views of the Astraka Towers – towering rock formations in the Tymfi mountain range – Aristi Mountain Resort & Villas perfectly embodies the essence of the Zagori experience. This internationally acclaimed hotel complex, set against the backdrop of pristine nature, invites guests to seek authenticity, tranquility, and reconnection with the environment. Over its 15 years of operation, it has garnered recognition for its exceptional guest experience and innovative sustainability practices in both architecture and operations.
From the moment you arrive, the space – crafted exclusively from stone and wood with an eye for high aesthetics and functionality – exudes a sense of familiarity, warmth, and understated luxury. This ambiance has earned it second place among all Greek resorts by Condé Nast Traveller readers and five-time recognition as the World’s Leading Eco-Lodge at the World Travel Awards. The resort’s nine stone buildings, reminiscent of a small village, are interconnected by a beautiful garden and house 26 rooms, suites, and villas. Natural materials dominate throughout, preserving and showcasing the local architectural tradition.
The cozy interiors feature a discreet, measured luxury without unnecessary frills. Bedrooms boast stunning views, comfortable living areas with wooden ceiling beams, fireplaces, light wood floors, stone walls, and vibrant rugs. Some bathrooms even include jacuzzi tubs. Among the villas, the secluded Aristi Residence deserves special mention – a true haven ideal for relaxation, complete with a living room, dining area, two bedrooms, and even a covered barbecue for preparing meals to enjoy in the private outdoor dining space.
Of course, there’s always the experience of the award-winning Salvia restaurant at the resort. Here, the concept of “sharing” – gathering around a table full of dishes inspired by nature’s cuisine and featuring products from local producers – honors the seasons when traditional Epirotes, after a hard day’s work in the fields and pastures, would sit at the family table to share stories, experiences, and flavors. This is the philosophy of acclaimed executive chef Yiannis Liokas, who pays homage to his Epirote roots with a menu based on dairy products and meats from Epirus villages, homemade pasta, olive oil, fresh organic vegetables from the greenhouse and garden of Aristi Farm, and many other local, authentic products.
The more gastronomically adventurous visitors will be thrilled with the cooking classes at Aristi Farm. The farm includes a glass greenhouse, an organic vegetable garden, a stone oven, and a courtyard with spectacular views. Seasonal produce grown year-round – spinach, arugula, beets, lettuce, broccoli, parsley, and celery from November to February, and tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, eggplant, basil, and coriander from March to October – supplies Salvia’s kitchen and serves as the foundation for guests to learn how to prepare a full three-course meal of traditional local cuisine with the chef’s guidance.
Undoubtedly, the most enjoyable way to start the day is with a gourmet brunch in the hotel’s outdoor area, where the menu once again showcases local produce from its garden. The experience includes, among other delights, savoring traditional Zagorian pie freshly baked in the greenhouse’s stone oven, local eggs, fresh fruits, and traditional Greek sweets like pasteli (sesame seed candy), mandolato (nougat), and halva, providing all the energy needed for activities in the mountainous landscape.
As for the hours not dedicated to exploring the enchanting nature and discovering beautiful villages, Aristi Mountain Resort & Villas’ outdoor pool offers swimming with breathtaking views of the lush green mountains. For cooler days, the view is not missing from the large, indoor heated pool in the impressive spa facilities. Here, relaxation, rejuvenation, and well-being become reality through sauna, hammam, four types of massage, or face and body treatments such as reflexology and aromatherapy.
At the end of the day and the journey through the magical Zagorochoria, the multi-award-winning resort stands as a testament to the perfect harmony between spectacular natural landscapes and local tradition, offering an unforgettable stay in the heart of Epirus.
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