The sights of Santorini are rare and impressive and unlike anything else found in the Aegean. The caldera, Palea and Nea Kameni, Fira and Firostefani, Imerovigli, and Oia and its famous sunsets all owe their fame to twelve major eruptions over the last million years. ‘The islands with their drinkable blue volcanoes’ as poet Odysseas Elytis writes of his homeland are remnants of an underground turmoil that has made Santorini the supermodel of the Cyclades, instantly recognisable. Pretty and pouting with dazzling panoramas, mineral-coloured beaches and romantic views over blue domed churches, it is easy to see why the island is a dream destination for so many.
The Caldera
The island is shaped like a croissant, with the neighbouring islets hinting at its previous name of Strongili – the round one. A momentous explosion blew out the island’s core creating the great bay 10 km wide and 400 m deep with towering cliffs along the east side adorned with trademark whitewashed villages. A flight from Athens only takes 45 minutes and is the most convenient way of entry but arrive by boat and you will experience a spectacular introduction to one of the most imposing calderas on the planet. The deep basin has at its centre the volcanic islets of Palia and Nea Kameni, ringed by Thira, Thirasia and uninhabited Aspronisi, while the sheer rock faces that rise to 330 m at Imerovigli show in layers of black, red, ochre and white the geological periods that shaped this uncanny landscape.
Fira
The capital of Santorini, Fira lies near the centre of the eastern rim of the caldera. Originally nothing more than a bunch of vineyards, wine cellars and a few summer dwellings, a settlement developed around Goulas tower, a medieval fort built on top of the hill by the venetian Bozzi family. Churches and houses were built and the village spread out along the caldera until the 1956 earthquake destroyed much of Santorini. It was rebuilt more quickly than other villages and became the cultural and commercial centre of the island, housing museums, art galleries and cathedrals. Most visitors first introduction to the island, Fira is vibrant with winding alleys, impressive mansions in Frangomahalas, yposkafa cave houses refashioned as luxury accommodation, busy squares, and, seemingly on every corner, spectacular views of the caldera. History has been written here for centuries against a backdrop of astonishing beauty.
Gialos is the gateway to Fira, the old port of the island and boats leave from here to neighbouring islets and to tour the volcano. The adventurous and healthy can walk the 587 steps up to the capital while for the rest there is a cable car offering amazing views.
Firostefani
Once a separate village in itself, Firostefani now makes up the quieter, more attractive northern quarter of Fira. The name derives from the word for crown as the village white houses sparkle like a tiara on the head of the cliffs. The walk from central Fira along the caldera is a Santorini highlight; from Firostefani’s single white cliffside street walkways descend to cave houses and following these paths gives a different perspective looking back to Fira and the caldera.
Imerovigli and Skaros
Set on the highest point of the caldera, hence the name meaning watchtower, Imerovigli has long been favoured by those looking for a quieter, more peaceful Santorini experience. Increasingly, it is becoming more high end, attracting some of the most luxurious and private residences on the island.
Skaros rock once housed a venetian castle built by Giacomo Barozzi in 1207 and was home to the largest settlement on the island. Earthquakes in the 18th century destroyed the fortifications and the residents fled to Fira. Today a trail descends from the church of Agios Georgios to the ruins of the castle and further to the chapel of Panagia Theoskepasti, the famous blue dome seen on many postcards. It is a rival to Oia for best sunset venue.
Nea Kameni
The uninhabited Nea Kameni is the youngest island in the Aegean, busting into life in 1707 and further formed from a series of eruptions in the 19th and 20th centuries. The youngest of its black volcanic lava rocks is only 70 years old and walking to the edge of the crater is an emotional experience as there is always an unconscious fear that the volcano will wake from its dormancy. Away from the smouldering volcano, Agios Nikolaos is a small cove with warm sulphur-rich waters that are popular for their therapeutic properties. Neighbouring Palia Kameni is older, being formed 2,000 years ago and both can be visited by boats that sail from the old port of Fira or from Athinios.
Oia
Oia the aesthete whose buildings spill down the cliff as if in an interrupted landslide is the Aegean’s most photographed village. Sleepy and slow-footed, Oia goes to bed early and wakes late, its neighbourhoods tightly knit built upon a precipice of volcanic ash. In the evenings, the white cubical houses glow blue-green from the light reflected from plunge pools and jacuzzis, the de rigeur Oia accessory. As the sun begins its journey below the horizon, travellers from all over the world congregate, each staring out to sea in anticipation of the great performance – the Oia sunset. The three hour rim edge walk from Oia to Fira at this time of day is unforgettable.
Here is where you will find the famous blue domes of the churches of Agios Nikolaos and Panagia Platsani, and single storey houses built around the castle in a defensive arrangement. Known as Pano Meria until the 1850’s, the settlement is mentioned in sources from the mid 15th century and it so flourished in trade and shipping that it was known as the village of the captains, home to distinctive houses in red and black stone that still stand in the inland neighbourhood of Sideras. The 1956 earthquake left 48 people dead and over 2,000 homes were destroyed. The western coast, including Oia, then the largest village on the island, was hardest hit and it wasn’t until the 1980’s that it began to slowly emerge as a tourist destination. Today, it is host to some of the most luxurious and glamourous hotels alongside award winning high end restaurants.
300 narrow steps beneath Oia lies Ammoudi, the village port. Circled by impressive red cliffs, traditional seafood tavernas line the picturesque promenade and there is a small rocky beach ideal for a quick refreshing dip. It is a port of embarkation for many excursion boats to Thirassia and Nea Kameni.
Pyrgos
Although it is home to only 500 residents today, in the early 1800’s Pyrgos was the capital of Santorini. One of the five venetian forts on the island, medieval houses are stacked back-to-back and one top of each other in a labyrinthine compound to protect against pirates. Spared the terraces, infinity pools and sunset seekers that blight the caldera rim, Pyrgos is a glimpse of a more traditional Santorini. Climb the streets until you reach the ruined castle and look over the vineyard-flecked landscape across to both coasts. For even loftier views, head up to the monastery of Profitis Ilias, the highest point on the island.
Read also:
The Beaches of Oia and the Caldera on Santorini
From Romantic Cocktails to All-Night Dancing: Nightlife on Santorini
