Now that the weather is still relatively warm and the rainy season has yet to arrive, trekking ranks as one of most fulfilling activities for your weekends.
Whether interested in heading out for a more advanced level of trekking, requiring stamina and specialised knowledge, or just a simple walk, get together with friends and enjoy a two-day break amidst the nature. The picturesque village Steni, in central Evia, is an ideal choice. Not far from Athens, just 107 km away, it is situated on the slopes of Mount Dirfi, at a 450-metre altitude, deep within the greenery, with old village taps and streams. A creek cuts through the village.
Begin your experience at the square, the heart of the village. Cobbled and featuring large plane trees and a village tap, it hosts small traditional cafes as well as great little tavernas serving exceptional pork chops. It is the ideal launching pad for your wider exploration of the area’s beauty – Pano (Upper) Steni and Kato (Lower) Steni, the settlement Pyrgos, or Skounteri.
For small-scale exploration, limit your coverage to the village alleys and check out the houses and their well-kept gardens as well as the streams and public taps. The best-known tap of all is Vrisi Tou Giatrou (Doctor’s Tap), just metres away from the square. Local products are on sale at pop-up kiosks usually assembled here. Then move out a little further and explore the surrounding areas. A segment of an ancient wall, speculated to have been part of a temple dedicated to Olympian god Apollo, is situated roughly one kilometre from Steni, towards Kabia. For a more extensive walk, head further out to the Agia Kyriaki cave-chapel, beyond Kabia, by the Paliomylo creek. Or go even further, to the Venetian Tower in the Skounteri area, close to the Zoodohou Pigis chapel, roughly 5-6 km from Kato Steni. Paleopanagia, a Byzantine chapel situated between Steni and Loutsa, is another feature you may want to include in your trek. A walk at the Natura-classified Steni Forest, on the Mount Dirfi slopes, is essential. This truly amazing setting features streams, gorges, plane, chestnut, fir and oak trees, as well as paeony flowers and scented wildflowers.
If interested in bigger, more challenging trekking routes, Steni has you covered. Beginning from Steni, two main trails head up Mount Dirfi. The S1 trail, passing by a refuge, reaches the mountain’s peak, while S2 ends at the refuge. A third route, S3, reaches elevated Xerovouni, opposite the Mount Dirfi peak. The more adventurous trekkers will take the S1 trail. The distance to the EOS Halkida “Mihalis Nikolaou” refuge, 1,120 metres above sea level, is approximately 8km. Reaching the peak from this point requires an additional two-and-a-half hours of walking.
The S1 trail, reaching the mountain peak, begins from a sports ground and enters a superb forest of fir trees, as well as strawberry and mastic trees. Along the way, you will encounter the Sykamino spring, running from the bottom of a rock, before continuing along a dirt track that once connected the Steni villages with villages on Evia’s eastern side. A few kilometres further ahead, you will reach Elatia, a dense fir forest. Walking through the forest for approximately half an hour will lead you to the refuge, where you can rest or even spend the night, before continuing uphill all the way to Delphi, the summit of Mount Dirfi. The route is signposted. On the return route, for variety, you may take the S2 trail from the refuge onwards and reach Steni via a forest with chestnut and plane trees. The S3 route towards Xerovouni also offers superb scenery.
Besides trekking and mountaineering routes, the Steni area also caters to rock climbers. Slightly beyond the village Karaouli, a large rock is ideal for such activity. The view from here is sensational. Xerovouni is also good for rock climbing, as is Kabia.
The wider area is also an attraction for mountain bikers. A route named Big Bear is among the area’s best-known spots for mountain biking.
Accommodation
Steni Hotel: Offering a lovely view of the village and mountain, the hotel’s rooms are well kept, and it also runs a café bar. (+30 2228051221)
Vasiliki guest house: It offers simple rooms, suites as well as one flat that can accommodate groups or families. It is cosy and well maintained. (+30 2228051583)
Food
Platanos: This spot serves meat dishes and well-prepared classic appetisers. (+30 6907668173, closed on Tuesdays).
Vrysi Tou Giatrou: A grill focused on meat dishes, it offers a charming yard with tables set under the plane trees. (+30 6977423482)
“Mihalis Nikolaou” refuge: +30 2221025230, +30 2221025279, eoschalkidas.gr
