As we travel along the main road connecting Kyparissia to Pyrgos Ilia, the distinctive brown sign from the Ministry of Culture directs us towards the traditional settlement of Ano Taxiarches. Reaching Lepreo, we navigate a sharp turn, and after almost 10 minutes, we arrive at the village. The gradually encroaching plants on the sides of the road signal a lack of traffic.
Within minutes, we are at the entrance of the settlement. Silence prevails. We leave the car at the entrance and start walking. The settlement is engulfed in greenery. Opposite us, the characteristic stone houses stand out. These are two-story structures with tiled roofs. Some are dilapidated, while others have been carefully renovated, adhering to preservation regulations. A little further down, the road is carpeted with the purple flowers of the Judas tree.
I observe the courtyards. In one house, a cat’s food is waiting in a bowl. Someone must have been here recently. Although we haven’t seen any people yet, the village gives off a sense of activity. Everything appears neat and orderly, as if someone had just been there.
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Ruins of Roman and Byzantine Settlements
The old name of Taxiarches, until 1931, was Mofkitsa, and it is located at an altitude of 510 meters. The history of Taxiarches dates back to ancient times, with ruins of Roman and Byzantine settlements discovered in the area. During the Turkish occupation, the village experienced difficult times, with residents subjected to heavy taxation and oppression. Nevertheless, the inhabitants managed to preserve their faith and traditions.
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Traditional Stone Two-Story Houses
Today, as mentioned earlier, visitors can admire the traditional stone houses of the village, which have largely retained their original form. The houses are either two-story or single-story, with spacious courtyards and covered balconies. Particularly interesting is the Church of the Archangels, dating from the late 13th to early 14th century.
Designated Traditional Settlement
Taxiarches has been designated as a traditional settlement by the Ministry of the Interior, making it the only settlement in Ilia with a Level 2 Protection status, due to its remarkable architecture. The few residents of the village are mainly engaged in agriculture and livestock farming, taking advantage of the area’s fertile soil.
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A Walk Through Picturesque Streets
A stroll through the quaint cobblestone streets of the village and a visit to the stone fountain and the Church of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary transports visitors to another era. Ano Taxiarches is a destination that combines the beauty of nature with rich history and traditions, offering a unique experience to those who choose to visit. The village’s traditional fountains, with their crystal-clear waters, provide moments of refreshment and relaxation for visitors.
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Pirate Raids
The historical journey of the settlement is closely tied to the adventures of the broader region. From pirate raids and the trials of the Turkish occupation to the Greek War of Independence in 1821 and World War II, the inhabitants of Taxiarches have shown a spirit of resistance and solidarity.
The Byzantine Church of the Archangels
The Church of the Archangels Michael and Gabriel stands on a hill above the settlement, dating from the late 13th to early 14th century. It belongs to the architectural type of a single-aisled, cross-in-square church with a dome. Despite the wear and tear over the centuries, it still retains notable features, such as the built-in Holy Altar, the sound vessel openings at the base of the dome, and the distinctive floor with black and white tiles and colorful floral motifs.
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The restoration work completed in 2019 included, among other things, the stabilization of the masonry, the replacement of the concrete dome roof, and the cleaning of the monument. Thanks to the meticulous work of archaeologists and conservators, the Church of the Archangels can now welcome visitors again and testify to the significant Byzantine architectural heritage of the area.
The Village Remains Alive
Today, despite the gradual decrease in population due to urbanization, the village remains lively thanks to the residents’ dedication to the traditions and history of their homeland. Taxiarches is an ideal destination for those who wish to experience the genuine beauty of the Greek countryside and enjoy the tranquility of nature.
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