For many who have ventured into the breathtaking embrace of Kythera, picturesque Avlemonas invariably emerges as a premier choice when asked about the island’s most captivating spots. Indeed, several enthusiasts earmark it among the most enticing fishing villages gracing the entire Mediterranean, celebrating it as a sanctuary adorned with natural beauty, yet holding its distinctive attractions. Officially, the settlement retains the moniker “Avlemon” – a name, however, seldom used anymore. The somewhat more colloquial “Avlemonas” has wholly taken its place, resonating even amongst the village’s elder inhabitants.
Sprawled gracefully by the sea, the village rises a modest five meters above sea level on the eastern flank of Kythera, tucked into the northeast recesses of Agios Nikolaos Bay. It sits a short drive away from Chora – the island’s pulsating heart and capital. As per the 2011 census, it cradled 85 souls within its embrace, though the forthcoming detailed statistics from the 2021 census are poised to shed more light on the evolving demographics, with initial indicators pointing towards a significant population decline in the island.
Venturing into Avlemonas, one finds oneself not merely on a geographical sojourn but on a poetic voyage into the very essence of Mediterranean allure, captured eloquently in the lens of those fortunate enough to grace its serene shores.
Natural Splendours and Historic Highlights
The name of the village carries a certain mystique, yet its origins remain elusive. One theory posits that it stems from the term “ablemon”, literally translating to “where the gaze does not reach”, a phrase that may bear metaphorical undertones, hinting at a seaside stretch that is either unfathomable or untouched – a description fitting for the Bay of Agios Nikolaos, a locale historically regarded as an ideal anchorage on the eastern shores of Kythera. Yet, another interpretation exists, suggesting that the official name “Avlemon” is a paraphrase of the word “eulimenos”, alluding to the same notion of a safe harbour.
The historic traces take us far back, even to prehistoric times. According to expert estimations, it was in the vicinity of Avlemonas (at a site known as Kastri or Skandeia) where settlers from Minoan Crete anchored as early as 2000 BCE. These early inhabitants exploited the abundant purple shellfish in the area’s waters to produce a vivid red dye, which they used to colour their pottery products. In antiquity, it is believed that an ancient sanctuary once stood here, its ruins later laying the foundations for the subsequent Christian church of Agios Panteleimon.
Opposite the modern village’s cove, visitors can witness the remnants known as “Kastraki” or “Castello” – a Venetian fortress that dominated the landscape during the Middle Ages, flourishing from the 13th to the 16th century, without ever falling into the hands of the Ottomans. In 1809, when the British decided to seize the island, they chose Avlemonas as the landing port for their troops. In the 19th century, what is today known as the notable Cavallini House was constructed, a building that now stands as one of the most recognisable landmarks on Kythera. This abode, originally owned by the Darmarou family, passed into the possession of the Italian Angelo Cavallini, a man who amassed wealth through shipping and silver mining. Around 1827, he expanded and upgraded the original estate, transforming it into a magnificent mansion, distinguished by a famed solar clock that continues to captivate visitors to this day.
Today, Avlemonas blossoms anew as a magnetic draw for visitors – equally from Greece as from foreign lands – spearheading the touristic revival of Kythera. Moreover, it offers more than just a peek into history and a canvas of must-see sights; it is a haven of abundant natural beauty. Its crystalline waters, for instance, fashion it into a dreamy summer destination, while it also has an attractive fishing harbour, and a small cove called “Bath of Aphrodite”, where you feel as if you are swimming in a private pool rather than on the maritime border of the Aegean and the Ionian Seas.
And there is more: the gentle vegetation adorned with numerous prickly pear trees that surround the settlement, along with the limewashed, pristine white cottages, evoke landscapes of the Cyclades. Furthermore, amongst the amenities one can find upon arrival here, particular interest resides in the beachside tavernas, where you can indulge in several local, “tsirigoti” specialties, and fresh fish caught off the bay of Agios Nikolaos.
How to Reach Avlemonas
As mentioned earlier, Avlemonas is quite near to Chora, Kythera’s main town, at around 20 kilometres’ distance. Therefore, starting from there and heading northeast, anticipate arriving in just half an hour’s drive: the road is manageable and accessing the village is a breeze, serving moreover as the terminus of the provincial road Frilingianika–Avlemonas.
Owing to this ease of accessibility, nowadays many visitors to Kythera choose to venture here for an excursion, be it for a swim, a combination of bathing and dining, or for some nocturnal revelry, all the while staying in Chora. Nevertheless, despite its diminutive size, Avlemonas boasts an array of hospitality and dining facilities, for those desiring to spend a few days there, and it radiates an exceptional beauty during the evening hours, as the entire bay basks in a gentle light, offering a unique allure to the old Venetian fortress whilst also delighting those who enjoy an evening swim.
Finally, should you find yourself here in September or later during the autumn months, a proposition stands for a splendid hiking trail, which traverses one of the oldest paths of Kythera and guides you around the surrounding mountainous areas, all the way to the little church of Agios Georgios, with its Byzantine mosaic. From here, you will be treated to a bewitching vista, with a panoramic sweep of all the eastern shores of Kythera laid out before you, as if served on a platter.
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