Mountainous Corinthia has been a popular winter destination for Attica residents for many years, partly due to the short distance from Athens to Trikala in Corinthia, (less than 150 kilometres, or about a two-hour drive), as well as the beautiful alpine setting of Mount Ziria. Meanwhile, on weekends in the peak winter season, the streets and tavernas of Trikala are as lively as those of Athens.
If you want to enjoy the alpine scenery of Ziria but are also looking for a quieter and more authentic mountain experience, we recommend a stay in Karyá, built at an altitude of 1,300 metres and the second highest inhabited village in the Peloponnese after Magouliana in Arcadia. Karya has followed the history of many Greek rural villages: prosperity, gradual decline, migration to urban centres, virtual abandonment after the Second World War, some form of resettlement, and the development of tourism since the 1980s.
Today, Karya is an excellent choice if you want to escape the pace of Athens for a few days and get in touch with nature through activities such as hiking or mountain biking, without the need for a long car journey. At the same time, you can enjoy traditional local products in a place that, despite its small size, has a particularly well-maintained hospitality infrastructure. But let’s start with some interesting things about the village itself.
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From Ancient Times to Today
We don’t know exactly when Karya was first inhabited, but there are references to it from antiquity, including by Pausanias, the first Greek ‘travel writer’, who passed through the area in 162 AD, who mentioned that in the depths of the Feneos plateau, there was a settlement called Karya. Situated on a plain, the settlement was often flooded, a factor that is the driving force behind the theory that its inhabitants were forced to move to escape the elements and settled on the slopes of Ziria.
From then on, the name of Karya, now a mountain village, appears in Frankish documents and follows the fate of the wider area. This includes the period of Frankish rule, the late Byzantine period, Ottoman rule, local participation in the Greek War of Independence, liberation and incorporation into the Greek state. This historical journey has left some architectural traces.
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The Dormition of the Virgin Mary and the Chapel of Haros
The main church of the village is called the Kimisi Tis Theotokou (Dormition of the Virgin Mary), which has stood on its site since 1850, built with significant contributions of money, goods and labour from the villagers. It has a women’s gallery, remarkable icons and a beautiful wooden iconostasis. Next to it is another very important religious monument, perhaps the most important. This is the Chapel of Haros, as locals call it. It was built in the 13th century and is now a protected monument. Some refer to this chapel as the Dormition of the Virgin Mary, confusing it with the main church of Karya. However, it remains uncertain which saint the small Byzantine church was built in honour of. It has already been mentioned that the chapel is a protected monument. This has not always been the case, and in the past, local people, unaware of its historical value, partly converted it into a school, which resulted in some of the beautiful frescoes being whitewashed. Today however, the sanctuary and part of the main church are in good condition.
The rather peculiar name ‘Church of Haros’ (Haros means death) for this temple came about in an epoch when Karya had a larger population. Next to the chapel was a girls’ school, where the teachers of the time punished what they considered to be disobedient pupils by locking them in the chapel. The threat of punishment was accompanied by the phrase ‘I’ll lock you in the Haros’, hence the specific name. What’s indisputable is that visiting the village’s churches is an interesting experience, even for the non-religious, while a stroll through the streets of Karya, with its stone houses, rich vegetation (dominated by walnut trees) and clean air, is particularly rejuvenating. The same goes for the extensive network of footpaths that crisscross the whole of Ziria.
Accommodation and Food
Despite its diminutive size, Karya offers excellent accommodation and dining options. The Karyatis Resort is a large hotel with traditional-style rooms and suites, all with views. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner with a focus on traditional regional flavours. In Anarada, you’ll find warm and tastefully decorated rooms and suites, as well as a restaurant where you can try dishes such as cabbage rolls, pork knuckles and, if you’re lucky, venison. Game dishes are also served (depending on the season) at the Karya Taverna (Phone: 2743 091269), where you’ll want to try the wild boar stew. At the Strouga butcher’s taverna (Phone: 2743 091194) you’ll find excellent grilled meats, with the lamb chops being a must for meat lovers.
Finally, the Korfes Guesthouse (Phone: 698 417 1949) offers well-maintained rooms made from stone and wood, most of them decorated with handmade elements. They have independent heating, a fireplace with wood for your stay, a bathroom with toiletries, a small kitchen equipped with the essentials for preparing breakfast, and a balcony. The hosts are friendly and helpful.
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Tips and Suggestions
Karya is 150 kilometres from the centre of Athens and the journey takes about two hours and 15 minutes. The cost of driving there in a car, including tolls, is currently estimated at 27-30 euros.
If you’re a fan of off-road driving, it’s worth visiting the area during the warmer months, provided you have the right car. You will find some of the best off-road trails in the country.
The Ziria Ski Centre may not offer real thrills for the experienced skier, but it’s ideal for introducing children to this exciting sport. Even if you don’t ski, a visit to the ski centre’s chalet is a must to enjoy the clean air and alpine scenery.
Another worthwhile excursion in mountainous Corinthia is to romantic Lake Doxa and the mythical Lake Stymphalia, where you can visit the interesting environmental museum. Apart from Trikala, Goura, a village with genuine traditional character that’s divided into three separate settlements, is well worth a visit.
Read also:
Venturing into Leonidio’s Architectural Splendour
In the Path of Aristotle in the Kalloni Wetlands
In the Footsteps of the Elephants of Western Macedonia
