Orchomenos, like the plains of Viotia overall, isn’t exactly what you’d call a popular tourist hotspot. Most of us just drive through the Viotian plains on the Athens-Lamia motorway without looking twice or stopping. However, Orchomenos is home to some significant monuments, both ancient and Byzantine, like the Panagia Skripou.
The Panagia (named after the Virgin Mary) served for hundreds of years as the main church of the male monastery of Skripou. Not much is known about the history of the monastery, but it is believed that the church dates back to the 9th-10th century AD and was built as a tomb for its patron, Leon, a high-ranking official in the service of the Byzantine Emperor.
The monastery is built in the well-known ‘cruciform transitional’ style and is the most important church of this architectural kind in Greece. Its style is a mixture of the free cross and the three-naved basilica with a dome. It represents the intermediate phase before the establishment of the cross-in-square plan, which is the most familiar architectural style of Greek Byzantine churches, such as the churches of Mystras or the Monastery of Hosios Loukas.
Even if you don’t wish to delve too deeply into its history, it’s worth visiting to enjoy the Byzantine craftsmanship that has been highlighted by the restoration and conservation of Panagia Skripou.
The church now functions as the parish church of Orchomenos and is surrounded by beautifully landscaped grounds. We were also impressed by the interior decoration of the church and its bell tower, which is a recent addition, dating back to 1939 when the church was declared a monument. It was built in such a way as to respect the Byzantine architectural heritage. The Byzantine sundial that is carved vertically into the southern wall of the church is particularly interesting.
A Story from the WWII Occupation
Panagia Skripou is celebrated five times a year, with the most important event taking place on 10 September, with a fair honouring a local event from the Second World War. On 8 September 1943, the Italians surrendered and withdrew from their alliance with the Germans. At the time, there were more than 2,000 Italian soldiers in the town of Livadia, along with a large amount of military gear.
The Greek resistance forces of EAM and ELAS in Orchomenos saw an opportunity to seize the military gear and recruit Italian soldiers with anti-fascist sentiments. When the Nazi Germans heard of this they counterattacked, executing Italian prisoners and preparing mass reprisals against Orchomenos’ inhabitants. In the early hours of 9 and 10 September, a German group of soldiers with tanks was positioned in front of Panagia, but their mission led them nowhere because of a miracle: The German commander of the detachment claimed to have seen the Virgin Mary standing in front of the tanks to block their way. Later, when he saw the icon of the Virgin Mary in the church, he pointed to it and told the locals that “This woman saved you”.
After the war ended the German commander returned to Orchomenos and even donated an icon to the church, the image of which depicted a representation of his vision, and in the following years, he annually participated in the memorial procession on 10 September.
Tips for Your Visit
The Monastery of Panagia Skripou isn’t the only important religious site in Viotia. The Monastery of Hosios Loukas on Mount Steiri also stands out. A Middle Byzantine monastery, it’s on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Despite being hit by last summer’s wildfires, its most important parts were saved.
For a great day trip from Athens, pass through the Monastery of Skripou and end your journey in Livadia to eat, drink and walk around the Fountains of Krya.
Skripou Monastery can also be a stop on a longer journey, with Arachova and Delphi as your final destinations.
Orchomenos has important archaeological sites, such as the theatre and the Mycenaean tholos tomb of Minyas, a smaller version of the tomb of Atreus in Mycenae.
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