Leonidio, the renowned coastal gem of Arcadia, may be modest in size but it’s steeped in a singular history. It stands as the unspoken capital of the Tsakonians, guardians of an ancient Doric dialect that, even now, is uttered by a precious few. Leonidio and its Parnon environs, be it mountainous or seaside, belong to a rare kind in Greece, untouched in any pivotal way by the tourist tide, for better or for worse. It’s our firm belief that this town is unlike any other in the Peloponnese, a distinction owed in part to its geographical setting.
Until the mid-20th century, reaching Leonidio wasn’t a job for the car but rather the maritime line of the Argosaronic Gulf ending at Plaka, Leonidio’s port. These days, one arrives via a road striking in scenery but rich with challenging turns. The first sign that welcomes the traveller, declaring “Kaour ekamate,” or “Welcome” in the Tsakonian tongue, signals that you’re entering a place of particular charm. Against the backdrop, a colossal Red Rock stands, a beacon for climbing aficionados. But beyond these natural gifts, the city prides itself on its man-made wonders.
Leonidio brims with two and three-story manor houses, some so old they have been standing since long before the Greek War of Independence of 1821. Many are now open for visitors, thanks to initiatives by their heirs or the local council. With cobblestone courtyards, pebbled pathways, fountains with stone mouths, tiled verandas, and intricately painted ceilings – these are the hallmarks of Tsakonian architecture. If you find yourself in this corner of the Peloponnese, even by chance, it’s well worth taking the time to explore these treasures up close.
The city’s grandest architectural boast is the Tsikaliotis Tower. Erected in 1908 by the timber merchant Konstantinos Tsikaliotis, who had ties with the secret revolutionary organisation Filiki Eteria and funded the uprising against the Ottomans. Like other stately homes in the area, this was not merely the residence of a wealthy man but also a defensive stronghold. It featured rifle slots and various architectural traps. For example, the uneven stairs where an intruder unfamiliar with their design could easily stumble.
Behind the doors of the rooms, there was space for a hidden resident to surprise an enemy. The secret hideaway behind the kitchen cabinet had room for children and valuables, and if all else failed, a secret tunnel would lead the tower’s occupants to safety.
For a taste of these Tsakonian architectural elements one can be enlightened at the small exhibition housed within. Regrettably, the tower is currently closed, but it is expected to reopen in the New Year. Another edifice revealing the city’s illustrious maritime history is the Mansion of Politimou. It’s a splendid specimen of Spetsiot architectural style. The seafaring mansion, built in 1816, along with Tsikaliotis Tower and the Katsikogianni Mansion (1807), are three of the Peloponnese’s most significant pre-revolutionary landmarks.
Of course, these are not the only significant architectural works; in Leonidio, there are over 100 neoclassical mansions built between 1840 and 1910 by locals and Italian craftsmen alike. Some bear distinct Western influences, while others are excellent examples of popular architecture, like the old Ecclesiastical Nursing Home.
Another building worth noting is one of the two that currently houses the town’s elementary school. This neoclassical edifice from 1912 was a gift from Andreas Syngros and has been renovated and restored to its original architectural splendour after nearly a century in service. As impressive as the school building itself is its alumni roster, including poet Kostas Ouranis, painter Leon Varveris, fellow painter and long-time president of the Hellenic Art Chamber Vrasidas Tsoklis, and many others.
Much more could be written about this enchanting corner of Greece, where the mountainous greenery of Parnon melds with serpentine coasts and unique local gastronomy. Yet here, we aimed to focus on the architectural heritage that makes it a beguiling destination in the autumn and winter seasons.
Read also:
Vloggos: The Pristine ‘Balcony’ of Central Peloponnese
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