Spread across a semi-permanent plateau, almost unnoticed on the map and overlooking the wild peak of Askio, Vlasti ranks among the most mountainous villages in Western Macedonia. Beloved by those tracing their roots back to it, yet unknown to those who have never set foot in the region, this traditional village in the Eordaia area remains one of Western Macedonia’s concealed treasures.
Surrounded by small forests of oak and conifer, which don winter’s first snowfall, the village’s origins – though not entirely known – are thought to date back to the Ottoman era. With a history intertwined with the tectonic shifts in the Ottoman Balkans, Vlasti, also known by the names Blats, Blatsi, or less commonly Vlatti, began as nothing more than a small settlement of persecuted Vlach shepherds who, around 1700, hastily abandoned the now-vanished Moschopolis in the heart of the Balkans for a tranquil haven away from massacres, looting, and persecution.
Indeed, until the arrival of new residents, this small settlement from the Byzantine Period was so forgotten that it significantly grew, eventually earning a deserved place in the records of the metropolitan codes of Sisani and Siatis with the name Vlatsi. From that moment on, the small village that began to form never ceased to evolve, reaching a point where, along with Kleisoura, Nymfaio, and Samarina, it became one of the most important mountain villages in Western Macedonia.
It marked a rising trajectory over time that continued unabated until around 1940. A period when history took a different turn and the village, which had gained recognition during the Revolution of 1821, faced destruction, civil strife, and desolation. Today, the village comes to life every summer, thanks to festivals and celebrations that welcome the return of its diaspora from every corner of Greece. However, this resurgence is short-lived, as the village significantly empties in winter, yet this does not detract from its beauty.
In learning about Vlasti, it’s imperative to mention the village’s schools. Few and renowned, yet now deserted and closed. The Thomaideio Teaching Establishment and the Hellenic Girls’ School are the now vacated schools that once thrived in a place bustling with life, children and youth. They now stand half-forgotten among wild strawberries, hyacinths, and flowers that each spring color the traditional landscape and fill the stone-paved alleyways with scents.
Just outside the village, snugly fitted into the fringes of the settlement is the “Swedish” textile unit, a small facility with Scandinavian aesthetics established in 1960. The initiative came about following the encouragement of a Dutch social worker who wished to promote female employment in the village. Despite its ambitious nature for the time, the venture lasted only about 20 years, leaving behind a fully equipped Swedish-style production unit with operational looms.
A bit further in and built at the village’s center, the Church of Agios Mark is the largest in Vlasti, standing out from a distance thanks to its tall frontal bell tower, a later addition made in 1930 based on designs by Dimitrios Petsilas, a Vlasti-born architect. Constructed in 1856, as indicated by a now-lost inscription, the church was a donation from the Louvriotis brothers and suffered almost irreparable damage during the Occupation and Civil War years until it was fully renovated in 1959. However, the church’s unfortunate history did not end there; in 1993, it was burnt to the ground by fire, leading to a lengthy restoration completed in 1997. Today, years after the disaster, the church is functional and fully accessible, serving as a living testament to the area’s rich history.
Just beside it and behind the bust of Kosmas of Aetolia, who passed through Vlasti, stands the Church of Saint Nicholas. Built in 1761 and filled with exceptional frescoes dating back to different periods, the Church of Saint Nicholas is a crucial link in the history of this place. The proof? The historic iconostasis that survived the destruction of Moschopolis intact and is now placed within the church. Heavy in aesthetics and finely crafted by hand, this historic iconostasis is one of the oldest and is worth seeing once you find yourself in the village. Also, do not forget to look for the small fountain in the village center, a symbol of the protection of wildlife with its charming stone bear.
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